Hyperflashing on LED turn signals

So I recently upgraded all of my bulbs to LED.
I got the notorious hyperflash and installed the resistor on front and rear turn signals to controll it... well. It works when my DRL/ headlights are OFF, but anytime I turn them on, it still hyperflashes, any recommendations?
The picture is of the front turn signal and the style of resistor (plug and play) I installed..
The rear resistor is the hard wired style..
Thanks for any info!

 

"Upgrade"

What lamps and how many ohms combined with the load resistor? Diode Dynamics makes/sells some lamps that work with the correct ohm rating load resistor for DRL turns according to them.

 

You downgraded not upgraded, read through this thread below. Plus LED Bulbs don't belong in Halogen Headlamps.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/

 

LOL!

Welcome aboard

 

@crashnburn80

 

The issue is likely around the front DRL/signal LED not drawing enough power when on as a running light/DRL. You’d need to calculate the load from the LED + resisters in the various phases and see if it is near stock.

That said I would just put the stock bulbs back. They will perform better and last longer than aftermarket LEDs with resisters. Resisters are failure prone, they convert power to heat to waste power so the vehicle sees the circuit load that is expected. But in doing so resisters will burn out. And depending on the LEDs, most are cheaply made in china and are not going to outlast the stock bulbs. If you put your stock bulbs back in front and left your rear LED signals it should fix the problem.

 

Hey Kyle:

The vehicle connector has 2 circuits and a ground. DRL/TURN and TAIL (PARKING)
DRL and TURN are on a shared circuit of same wire.
DRL or TURN is the choice.
What type of connector do you have plugged into the vehicle harness?

 

It's a pre built harness eith the resistor already hardwired in.. the one end connects into the stock bulb outlet, while the other end holds the bulb.. if that makes sense.. lol
I tried it out so I wouldn't need to do any hard wiring myself

 

I believe @caribe makaira may have found an issue. Maybe the resistors you are using are for 7440, not 7443? You need to make sure the resistor is applying the load to the DRL/Turn. That being said, you did say it was working with the DRL on, so maybe the resistors you are using are not passing the parking light signal? If you have a multimeter, make sure your resistors are 6 Ohm (or even 7 will work). A 6 Ohm resistor presents a load equivalent to 2.3A or 32W at 13.8V. The stock 7442 is 28W, so you should be good with it.

 

Remove the connector and post a pic of it. (the pre-built one)