I’m having problems with my 2002 toyota tacoma 3.4L v6. breaks

I recently got into a wreck, and had to have my truck towed. What I broke was my driver side fender and the inside fender/apron crumpled along with my radiator it didn’t come close to my brake caliper. I’ve always had my abs light on but now when I try to drive it both of my front calipers slowly get harder along with my brake pedal to the point where i can’t move even while going 2,000 rpm. It takes about 5 stops and gos for the truck to completely not accelerate even with the brake disengaged. the calipers are clamped down. I can drive again when I release the bleeder valve. I have bleed my brakes plenty this past week but that doesn’t help i also checked the break booster by pulling the hose but it doesn’t release the calipers so that seems fine. My thoughts are the abs component is broken. My dad says to vacuum the brake lines or replace them. But i’m not sure any suggestions?

 

It sure sounds like the brake fluid pressure is not being relieved. I would look for any crimped or damaged hard-lines first then inspect the flex lines. The flex lines can be damaged internally and this just might be a coincidence. With the correct line wrenches this is a driveway job and should not take more that 1/2 hour each side.

The ABS system is a complicated system but there are some tests you can do in the driveway. I will see if I can find the procedure and attach it in a message. If someone else beats me to it, great.

 

When they lock up crack brake lines loose at each connection starting at the master cylinder and working out to the wheels until they release, when they do then you know where your problem is.

 

There's a flex line going to each caliper....

some times the hard line on either side of that flex line is easily damaged in a wreck...
look for a crimp or bend..........this is the cheaper fix...

when you lose a wheel from the lbj failure, its common for that hard line on the caliper to end up twisted or crushed..




the expensive one would be if the abs unit is damaged...
so double check the wiring connections and fuses there too.

 

I had an 1972 Honda motorcycle that would do the same thing on the back tire. It ended up being one of the soft brake lines was coming apart internally and created a one way valve. My first ever ratcheting wrench was very handy for quickly opening the bleeder valve on the side of the road to get me a few more miles between forced pit stops.

Crazy story about that bike, I rode it to a local Honda dealership and went in to ask the parts guy for a repair manual and he tried to tell me over and over again that they never made a liquid cooled Ascot in 72 even though I had one sitting in the parking lot. He was pretty confused when I convinced him to go outside and look

 

I'd take the truck back and not accept it unless it was completely fixed.

This is assuming you went through insurance due to the accident.

Insurance isn't just for "cosmetic" damage when an accident occurs, it covers other items such as light housings (whether it was the front or back that got struck), spindle, bumper, etc anything that suffered as collateral damage.

Repair shops that are authorized for use by your insurance company must guarantee the work and this is typically enforced by your insurance company. If repairs are done to your satisfaction, the claim is closed and all you can claim is warranty on the work provided per their regular policy.

If this did not fall under insurance at all well...the other members will chime in.