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I’m lost and have no music now

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by CLVol1255, Jan 31, 2020.

  1. Jan 31, 2020 at 5:52 AM
    #1
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey I’ve got another issue now in my head unit that I’m hoping you could help me out with. I’ve taken the alpine power pack out of my system and added the JL audio xd700/5v2 amp and the 8” JL audio boxed sub behind rear passenger seat being equalized by the dq-61 I’ve used 2 gauge ofc power cable and grounding cable for the JL audio amp. Ive usedbusman mega fuse rated at 100a for power 18” inches from battery pos. I’ve tapped from behind factory head unit into my dq 61 from each speaker and I have ran high end rca stinger 8000 series to my JL amp inputs. I’ve tapped with 12 gauge ofc speaker cable from JL speaker outputs after DQ-61 to each speaker wire behind oem head unit..

    issue- whenever I turned everything on after hookup the amp went intoprotection mode and blew my 20amp radio fuse instantly. Since I have disconnected EVERYTHING one by one and added low profile fuse each time to check and it still keeps popping fuses. I’ve even unplugged all harnesses and tried to power complete stock and it’s still popping the radio 1 fuse. Radio 2 fuse is not blown. When removing speaker wire I realized that I’d hooked the left speaker backwards initially but have since rewired everything. Any idea on what i should do next? Would this have fried my head unit? Is there another fuse somewhere I should check to see if is blown? I’ve been working on this late after work every night and I’m lost on what to do next. Any help or recommendation would be greatly appreciated. My head unit is doing nothing. Black screen and continues throwing fuses. I have a slight hiss under acceleration coming from front speakers it sounds like I’ve checked. It’s since gone after unhooking everything besides dq 61.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2020
  2. Jan 31, 2020 at 6:12 AM
    #2
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Something is shorted somewhere.

    My first step would be to get your meter, set it to continuity, ground your black lead, and test every connection at the amp and dq61 with the red lead. If anything other than the designated ground wire causes the meter to beep, there’s your problem wire. Somewhere in the system, that wire is grounded and it shouldn’t be.

    If no wires show continuity to ground. Then I would disconnect the radio completely but leaving the rest of the equipment hooked up.
    With all plugs out of the radio, turn the key and see if the fuse still pops.
    If it does, the issue is outside of the radio.
    If it doesn’t, the issue is still potentially outside the radio but we can see.

    If it’s popping the radio 1 fuse when you cut it on but NOT popping it before you cut it on, my first guess is that the remote turn-on wire is shorted or grounded somewhere.
     
    12TRDTacoma and CLVol1255[OP] like this.
  3. Jan 31, 2020 at 7:28 AM
    #3
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank @destin_meeks im going to try exactly that. In process now. I don’t have the amp power hooked up anymore but I’ll check the others and get back
     
  4. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:06 AM
    #4
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m getting no reading whatsoever. Also as soon as put the neg back on the battery the fuse is blowing. When you say completely unhook radio do you mean the speaker connectors or every single connector from behind it?
     
  5. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:07 AM
    #5
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    All connectors from the radio
     
  6. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:07 AM
    #6
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Also, you can leave the fuse out for now. We can find a short without it in place
     
  7. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:15 AM
    #7
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok with the truck turned on checking with mm for ohms the left rear is the only one not buzzing when I touch the positive of it. All 3 others are beeping as soon as I touch the pos
     
  8. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:16 AM
    #8
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  9. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:36 AM
    #9
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Is your meter set to continuity or ohm?
     
  10. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:45 AM
    #10
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok set to continuity it reads left front speaker .0001 right front .0006 and rears read .0008
     
  11. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:51 AM
    #11
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    none of your speakers should cause the meter to beep. that means those wires are grounded somewhere.
     
  12. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:53 AM
    #12
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    is the wire cut/disconnected between these two splices?
     
  13. Jan 31, 2020 at 8:59 AM
    #13
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’ll redo it. I don’t believe so but I’ll re solder it
     
  14. Jan 31, 2020 at 9:22 AM
    #14
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    I’m just going by what the meter said.
    When set to continuity, If the leads touch the same conductive material, the meter beeps.
    So if one lead is on a ground, and the other lead touches a wire and it beeps, that means ‘somewhere’ that wire is touching a ground.

    I would do a big more digging before tearing the harness apart though.

    did you see my above post?
     
  15. Jan 31, 2020 at 9:39 AM
    #15
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok yeah I had it set to ohms initially when it beeped. Set to continuity I posted what all speakers read
     
  16. Jan 31, 2020 at 9:56 AM
    #16
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nothing is beeping when set to continuity when touching leads to ground and pos wires just reading as posted above
     
  17. Jan 31, 2020 at 10:05 AM
    #17
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I think I’m about to run to the shop I got the amp Abe sub from and hopefully can get some help hands on. He tried to sell me a new head unit ave looks like this may be what I’ll need to do at the end of the day. Just hope he gives me honest opinion on current condition of stock hu. I feel like my wiring and harness is good though. Head unit is labeled 4 ohms speakers actually read 3.6 ohms when rechecked with mm leads and didn’t beep
     
  18. Jan 31, 2020 at 10:25 AM
    #18
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    To clarify I used the Metra harnesses male and female to wire amp this and soldered them directly together color to color. I’m thinking out loud but would me running speaker wire into this harness from the JL amp put too much load on the oem stereo? I tapped the amp after the dq 61 which is what the instructions of dq say to do so it get signal from head unit first then feeds equalized signal into the amp. Was it unnecessary for me to run speaker wire from head unit harness to amp since my dq outputs are going into the amp via rca?
     
  19. Jan 31, 2020 at 10:27 AM
    #19
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    you would need metra harness from radio to DQ via speaker wire.
    Then RCA from DQ to amp
    then speaker wire from amp back to other side of metra harness
     
    CLVol1255[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  20. Jan 31, 2020 at 10:27 AM
    #20
    CLVol1255

    CLVol1255 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Man I’m so frustrated and kicking myself that I can’t seem to figure this out. I’ve tried unplugging everything and just having factory harness into my speakers only and it still pops fuse. Makes me think it’s gotta be fried head unit
     

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