I can't take the shake!!!

Was the cupping occuring on the insides of the front tires?

 

Both toyota and DT used hunter road force machines.

All over the front tires.

 

Hub Centric. index the wheels. Has these subjects come up. I have changed to Michelins with every 4R bought since 2008, 5 of them. I traded the '18 4X4 4R for a new Gen 3. Figured to change the tires soon as taking delivery. Decided to wait. Stock Goodyear AT's on new Tacoma, has surprised me. Up to 80+ mph, no issues. Hard to believe. Looking at the tires, there are blue marks on each one, from rim out.
I asked the service guys at the dealer, did they balance the wheels since delivery. No, did not touch them. To me, they did a great job doing the balance at the factory, or at the port, never expected it. I say for the vibration problems, get it back to pure stock, then see the results.
I went thru this with a new 2006 4X4 Tacoma. Vibration at all speeds, never corrected, just learned to live with it.
B 1

 

I am not a tire expert by any means but I have had alot of large tires and have had several people say they know how to balance them. Not the same by any means. I now have a tire guy that is a rock crawlung trail guy and he does what he calls offroad tire balancing and I have never had tires so well balanced.

 

He wanted to lift it. That's all the justification he needed. It's his truck and his money.

 

It’s not the rear blocks. Cupping is from inadequate pressures, too much to little etc. are they cupping in the center, outer of the tire? Is it all 4 tires that are cupping? Does the truck pull one way or another? Any pics on what’s installed and what they looked like

 

I don't know about the Grabbers, but I had the same issue with a set of Wildpeaks and Mr. Tire. Multiple tries at balancing and still wobbling above 50 MPH. I swapped them for a set of Coopers and balance was perfect on the first try. Never buying Falkens again. Lots of wasted time, money and unnecessary handling that'll just get your wheels and lug nuts all banged up.

 

You do you. If I lived there a lift would be done also. To easy to get buried in the sand on the beach

Dont use tire beads they are snake oil

 

Just curious... Did you go with "stage 3" (all leafs including the aal used) on the leaf pack and do you have any extra weight in the back end?

 

I am running them in the Stage 1 setup. I keep my truck as light as possible with just the 26# aluminum rack, 26# ARB awning, and 16# Softtopper. Even with 15 gallons of extra fuel, 3 gallons of water, two weeks of food, fridge, general recovery gear, clothes and towing a small 1500# trailer all over the desert this summer, Stage 1 was still the right setting.

 

Install your stock wheels on the truck and see if the shake goes away?
Then you’ll know if it’s wheel related or something in you driveline.
By your description of the issue, it sounds like a tire issue. But check if the shake goes away with a different set of tires.

 

I've seen many people with balance issues with Wildpeaks, myself included. Twice. I'm going with something else next time.

 

My Toyo 265/70 A/T3s took no effort to balance and are stable at 100 mph.

They use a new folding technique that requires less material to achieve the same toughness as heavier ply tires. Less mass and less worries when balancing.

If I don't see a serious competitor to this tire emerge, I'm going to buy it again when I upgrade to 34s

 

I’m running 285s E rated wildpeaks. Truck is smooth up to 90. I had the SL ones before these and they were shit. One of the worst tires I’ve ever run. The E rated have been phenomenal over the last 15k+

 

Update: DT swapped me back to the general grabbers(new set) as they could not get the wildpeaks to balance. The generals balanced out to 17 x 2 12 on 1 and 8 on the other. Which should not cause shaking so I know it's not a balance issue.

I haven't swapped the stocks back yet as it would cost more(re-balance/tpms switch over and relearning) than a carrier bearing drop. Which I did and the shake is still there in the rear. My next step is the stocks. If the shake is still present, I'm thinking of changing the U joints. When I put the cupped tires on the rear I'm assuming it threw something out of balance back there. I'll also check any bore wear and lug bore wear. I'm hoping there is no axel warp but I doubt that happened.

 

You only need to swap and drive to diagnose the shake then you will know if it is the aftermarket tires. You don't need to balance or change tpms unless there are dismounted. Then that changes things.