I know, another lift question.

Hello all, new here with a 2012 Tacoma 4 door short bed 4x4. Before every one tells me to use the search button, I have. I want to know the maximum lift (no long travel) that is safe to run on a 2005+ 4x4 Tacoma with out using a differential drop kit. I have read countless threads, talked to many lift companies, and read every FAQ. No one seems to agree. I know that many/most guys with 5100's that run them at 2.5" lift do not use a drop kit for the differential. Then I have read that 3" is the max, and other lift companies say you shouldn't lift more than 2". Lots of mixed opinions. I understand its all about CV angles and a little bit on wheel alignment. Say I lift it 2.5", is there any additional stress on the CV joints? How much more stress from a 2.5" lift to a 3" lift? Is there still this additional stress on the CV's when driving in 2wd?

Sorry for all the questions. My ultimate goal is to do a 3" lift on the front and 2" in the rear to fit 33's with very minimal trimming but if I am going to have to get the CV's fixed every 10k miles then I don't know. Do you guys break CV's at 2.5" or 3" and how often?


Look forward to what you have to say.

 

I'd say 3 inches is max, if I went higher I'd probably change em out but that's just my opinion, I haven't read a ton about it. With a 3' lift, a lot of guys replace their UCA's because they are not in alignment, and some even if they get in alignment they still replace them, but I don't think everyone replaces CV's for a 3" lift, I believe that's more for 3"+ lifts. Lots of solid 3" lifts out there, OME is a great brand and gives you everything you need aside from possibly UCA's

 

I'm running 3in lift same truck 2012 double cab short bed working fine for me no diff drop.

 

I know this is a near impossible question, but what do you guys think the average life span of the CV's with a 3" lift and no drop bracket? Under what circumstances are they failing? Any one here with a 3" lift and no drop bracket that would like to chime in on their first hand experience. Have you broken a CV? If so how many, and at how many miles?

I only plan on doing some mild off roading, and light wheeling. However, if this is common problem with any use, I will have to find a different route.

 

I don't think that you are going to have a problem with a 3". over 3' you will have bind in the CV's causing premature failures. If you look at you CV's make sure the boot looks like this. if not and the ribs are touching then there is going to be early wear, the boots will tear, and additional stress on the joint causing breakage over time.

 

The diff drop on a second gen does little more than cause oil starvation issues. Oh, and most likely 3" max unless you go with a DB lift.

 

If you have access to a lift and feeling bored on a weekend. Remove your strut and let the whole upper/lower control arm assembly droop down. Then try to spin your hub (Turn it side to side to). If it binds or doesn't spin freely then you found the maximum droop you can sustain before binding your CV's. Measure from the strut bucket to the bolt hole on the lower control arm, just found your maximum length for a coil over.

Aftermarket UCA's allow more travel and also helps with alignments. So lets say you let your suspension fully droop and everything is fine. Factor in a little more with UCA's.

Typically 3" lift is maximum for a mid-travel set up. Start Adding bumpers, lights, winches and then it will decrease a bit to so factor that in.

I have the OME lift with 885 coils up front and Camburg Uniball Upper Control Arms (little less then 3" and has settled quite a bit since install). My new coilovers have been sitting in the garage waiting to go on and I'll probably have them in soon.

I didnt do the diff drop just because it can actually cause issues later on, if you go offroad you can actually smack the diff on a rock and crack the housing. And also most aftermarket skid plates will not work with a diff drop.

Not knowing what your plan is (pavement pounder/mall crawler, overland, or mild offroad) or budget. My recommendations would be NO spacer lifts, avoid blocks in the rear, Bilstein Makes a really nice strut for the front, everyone runs them but thats for a good reason. ARB Old Man Emu kit HATES salt and winter conditions and mine rusted to shit (another reason to replace them for me). Buy something good quality and you should be ok.

 

Thank you all for the good information. Differential drop is not in my plan for many reasons. I think a solid 3" lift and 33's is the way to go for my particular use.

A few other questions. How will I will know if CV's have gone bad? Also, is it ok to drive on a broken CV? I wouldn't leave it broken but if I am on a road trip I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road.

 

Sounds like this CV problem is a little exaggerated then unless you lift above 3".

Say I am driving and the CV does break? Could I still drive on it, or am I calling a tow truck?

 

The CVs arnt really breaking because of a 3 inch lift but the fins on the cv boots rub against each other till they tear and shoot grease everywhere. Ive put 32,000 on my truck at a 3 inch lift and I offroad constantly. My CVs have held up fine.

 

If it's in 2wd you're good.

 

Its possible to snap a CV but I doubt you will do that unless you are rock crawling. Most likly your cv boots will tear and there will be grease everywhere. You will know if you look under your truck one and a while. If the boot tears try to keep it away from dirt and try to keep the grease in. they make boot wraps for emergencies offroad but you can drive around a while on a cv with a torn boot. You may have to replace the whole cv though instead of just the boot if you continue to drive around for awhile. Most people just replace the whole cv anyway.

 

46,000 miles at 3" and no boot problems yet

 

Awesome, thanks for all the input.