I need a 1st gen front hub/bearing assembly

LKQ is a MASSIVE junkyard chain. call them and they can probably get a spindle for you. @Kristi with a K is posting their ebay store.

theyre who we use at the dealer for used parts.

 

Ok that makes more sense

For what ever reason if any yards in this area associate with LKQ they don`t mention it in person

 

@Kristi with a K cool checking it out doing a bunch of research also checking out car-part.com if you get a chance check them out
thank you
@Timmah! thinking actually pick something up from a junkyard what do you think about a used bearing well they have the whole hub it has 148 000 miles on it what is your experience with the junkyard parts well more specific a hub bearing is it worth it just trying to avoid the removing/pressing of bearing

 

used can be a gamble. but usually they do have a warranty.

 

If you have a press and can do the work yourself, I think your best bet is to replace the wheel bearing on your knuckle. If you're not feeling like doing this job yourself, you could always get a shop to do the work for you. You just have to be careful what shop you choose because there's lots of hacks out there that destroy people's knuckles and hubs.

Used is a crap shoot. You might get lucky and it lasts you for a very long time, and then again, you might find you're redoing all the same labor when the wheel bearing takes a shit on you. If you're at all interested in turning wrenches, I'd buy a Harbor Freight 20 ton press and the other necessary tools and knock it out. I've used my press for tons of jobs. It's paid for itself many many, many times over.

 

@Timmah! Just finished watching the video you forwarded me earlier you told me that in my hand the bearing should have plenty of play but in the video you’re saying that you guys destroyed the bearing when pressing it out and that it’s not supposed to have any play I’m confused now wondering if Toyota sent me a damaged bearing the inside of the bearing has that same rotating play I’m able to pull out one side of the inside roughly 1/4 from the face of the bearing and rotate it like it’s some type of rotating cup you show and describe the same thing on the bearing in the video as it being damaged from pressing it out is the bearing damaged if it has that play or is it a good bearing
Thank you

 

I'm sorry for the confusion and it's my fault. Now I understand why you're concerned. In the video, I wrongly assumed the play I was seeing in the old bearing I removed from Jordan's knuckle was due to pressing it out. After holding a new bearing in my hand, I realized the new bearings have similar play but maybe not as much. So, these new bearings due have play and it's completely normal. I hope this clears things up for you.

I added a note in the video description of our 1st Manual Hub Swap video to also let others know that the new bearings do have play in them.

 

@Timmah! thank you also will I need that special spanner tool to remove the ring not just curious do you have any other videos on just replacing first GEN front bearing Getting a bit confused with the conversion thing
Thank you

 

Just watch the Part 2 video which doesn't include much about the manual hubs swap info. The only thing I don't show in Part 2 is showing how to get the bearing spacer installed on the shaft of the hub but that shouldn't be hard for you to figure out. I pretty much think you could tap it on with a hammer and doesn't require to be pressed on. The upper balljoint video I provided gives you all the necessary steps to get the knuckle off and back on.

The big difference with manual hubs compared to the ADD hubs is the fact that the manual hub has threads on it and the bearing is preloaded with that nut that we torque to a high value. With the ADD hubs, there's no threads and the bearing is preloaded by the CV axle nut being torqued to its high value. With your knuckles not having manual hubs, you will slide on your ABS tone ring on first and then you'll install the bearing spacer I mentioned. It's really not that hard if you pay attention to the Part 2 video and my explanation of how all the parts go together. Start watching the video below at play time 11:15 and you'll have all the information you'll need to be successful doing the press work on your ADD knuckles.

If you still have questions, hit me up but I'm hoping everything will be very clear to you now.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/1TpOYj0sUpA

 

@High Noon thank you
@Timmah! unless there’s something wrong on my end there’s no video posted bellow your last post
again thank you for all the other great info you’ve been totally helpful really
thank you actually need to subscribe to you channel and will

 

What are you using to access this forum? You should be able to see the link to the video I provided. Try from a lap top or desk top computer.

 

@Timmah! ok also if I continue driving with this going on can I caused any other serious damages to any other parts there’s a possibility this bearing has been damaged for a while if it totally goes out what would happen just curious if you have any experience or know of anyone that has experienced this situation
Thank you

 

Front wheel bearing complete failure !!

It comes down to how fast you can get the truck stopped

Off the top of my head it may be some what off but close enough.

Fast wheel hub assemble loose and ready to fall off .

Worse case the hub assembly comes off the truck pulling the cv shaft apart breaking upper and lower ball joints and brake hose.

The truck may be sliding down the road on the side that failed

Most failures are in the middle someplace it can be only a few seconds difference between them

 

@Wyoming09 provided what could happen if it fails. Is it worth the risk? Probably not. If the bearing doesn't have gross play, I'd feel ok with around the town driving. I personally wouldn't do any freeway driving or take any long trips until you get the problem addressed.

 

To second Timmah - if there is any play detectable it’s time for a new bearing. I was able to drive one one for a little while with play in it, but it’s a game of luck. There was no noticeable difference in the amount of play it had the from when I noticed it going to an hour before it completely seized up. Just save yourself the ass ache of being stuck on the side of the road and repair it as soon as you know it’s bad.

With the HF press and Timmah’s video it’s really not a bad job. I did 3 of them this past year and by the time I was on the 3rd one it was like a 20 minute affair with the seals and everything.

 

@Timmah! do you know of any inexpensive press sleeve kits I can purchase for the job thank you

@Wyoming09 and @avw4x4 thank you

 

This is the kit I have: https://amzn.to/2JuORYF

In a Pinned Comment for our Manual Hub Swap Part 1 video, I list all the tools with links including the one above. A pinned comment is the first comment you see on any of our videos. We regularly put important information to share in our video descriptions and pinned comments so always check those two places when you're using one of our videos as a tutorial.

 

I managed with some of the cups in my ballpoint press kit and using the old bearing. It’s worth having the bearing splitter on hand too, the inner race stayed on the hub of 2/3 I did. Comes off very easy with the splitter as Timmah showed.

 

We actually cut the bearing race off with a Dremel. I tried getting a bearing splitter under the race but couldn't get a positive enough purchase. Maybe your race moved a bit on the hub shaft and enabled you to get under the race or maybe your splitter was more suited for this application.

 

I wasn’t able to get under it either, just bit onto it. Your video is the bees knees for anyone attempting to do this! Also used your rear wheel bearing video