I need a little 2015 performance advice

Please Volcom, run a quality synthetic once your s/c is installed. They have a higher thermal threshold than non synthetics, which is critical to engine protection. Not Valvoline. Not Valvoline.

Also, once the s/c is installed, and as part of the kit, colder Denso Iridium spark plugs. I believe they are IKH20's. Might be

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22's. They are one step colder than the ones which come from the factory. I went for the coldest I could get before going to a spark protective Denso Iridium race plug. Mine are the IHK27's.

Shr133 is correct in that changing to a synthetic can increase engine power. An example would be something in the race genre. An extreme but extremes are great for examples. Drag racing teams (large budgets we don't have) have frequently tested different viscosity sythetics (remember thermal threshold ) to gain upwards of 50 hp. (An old article about a drag team working with Royal Purple comes to mind. I cannot remember the specifics) They needed the synthetic for the engine to last "X" amount of runs, but at the same time because it could handle the heat better than non synthetic, they were able to run a lighter viscosity. Thus reducing internal friction, and gaining hp and tq. Of course, this was over pro drag car's engine making well over 1000+ hp. The point is still accurate though.

 

I'm not being sarcastic. I didn't even speak to your mods. All I asked for was actual proof. And yes, I'm right, you don't have any proof. And w/o baseline pulls, if you do dyno, how will you be able to compare?

I 'estimate' you're wrong. My estimate is just as meaningful as yours. Facts are much more valuable.

Hundreds? Wow, you must be both older than dirt and the king bee in your area. That's very cool.

All I've ever done is crew on an NHRA E/S ET record holder. And futzed around in SoloII with little 7k motors.

But to be fair, 500HP out of a modern LSx isn't too tough with a few tweaks and bolt ons. I'm not convinced that modern Japanese common production vehicles (which our trucks are) have that much slack left laying on the table % wise, at least not to get there so easily.

Actually sticking one of those in your truck would be an easy way to be an over achiever w/o all this custom map building nonsense. Running a crate + OE ECU would also get you reasonable MPG, as you'd not need uber low gears due to higher torque at low RPM.

Why? In my case, stock is what I want. Just because it is doesn't mean the owner is incompetent on the topic. The purpose I bought the truck for is just fine as is.

Ok, that's really all I asked. Thanks for being honest. Bench racing is grand. Dyno pulls reveal results.

Guarantee with what? Money back or something?

 

MAF Cal from URD only works at WOT. Not exactly a gas mileage friendly.

 

^^^ Myth and incorrect. Been stated plenty of times throughout the performance section, copied from Gadget and posted by Gadget that that is incorrect.

It does a little closed loop tuning as well as open loop tuning. Open loop does not require WOT, which most people tend to believe. It is however a function of a number of variables which switches the vehicle into open loop. This topic was brought up long ago and I posted a YouTube video showing where and how entry into open loop can change. My video is strictly of a 1GR.

 

@Justus . Care to chime in broski?

 

I stand corrected. When I had it, I just went with Gadget's tune and never touched the software it came as I did no other changes after installing.

 

No harm no foul my friend.

 

I fully plan on running the right spark plugs as well as synthetic oils , I just didn't want the OP to get the wrong impression, I find it hard to believe a stock N/A engine can see hp gains because of synthetic oil and plugs.

 

Gotcha.

 

What are the right spark plugs?

 

Looks like

$9 Denso IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

Denso IKH22'S come with the SC

 

i didnt read through the first two pages of comments.. but I put 33's on my 2012 DCSB and I got a re-geared (4.10) diff w/ ARB air locker for my TRD Sport and I think it is perfect. I saw my MPGs just back up to approx 20-40 miles shy of where I was stock. Definitely got some power back and I am happy with the upgrade.

 

u summed it up just as I would have

Tor for prez!

 

I guess I am old.....
I worked at Schlieper's Speed Shop and we built mostly 9/1 compression 350 small blocks with 2 barrel carbs aluminum heads and roller cams for short track racing in the mid-west.... 470-550 HP back in the day, 25 years ago.......... I did lower end, rods and pistons, balancing, flow bench," ported my own and friend heads" carb blue printing, " before fuel injection we had these things called carbs that would just dump gas in to the intake", ran the dyno, distributor rebuilding and at track tuning with out a computer, F/A gauge or a dyno, just spark plugs. ++++++++ I got my first 13 second Firebird at 17 years old and I'm 49 and I still have a GSXR 750 race bike in the garage that can run low 10s 1/4 mile or 2.26s at Road America....

So if I say it runs better, it does....I'm just trying to help....... Everything you do to a street car or a race car will work on a truck, an engine is just an air pump and you need to make it a more efficient pump and add the right fuel mixture and timing.... That's about it....

Over the 4th I'll be testing the uni-chip at the Silver Lake Sand Dunes and well know if it's worth it.....

 

It should be a prerequisite to take and pass a basic physics class before being permitted to spend more than $3000 on a vehicle. You cannot reduce fuel consumption whenever you increase mass, just the same as not being able to create energy, it can only be changed.

 

@shr133 , have you seen this thread? He is us in a UniChip, among other components. http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57085

 

Cool thanks.

 

He's got a lot of performance.

 

Exactly don't do that. . Those are meant for rotories.