I NEED BRAKE ROTORS THAT...

Ok, see, this is an entirely new ballgame now. I didnt realize that these were not the original rotors. That makes sense. You can buy shit aftermarket rotors for like $20 from shucks or something. Thats makes sense now. Go either OEM or powerslots are good rotors.

 

What about slotted and drilled rotors !!! I bought those for my camry the oem's warped .. To much going up and down the tejon pass .. That's what I'm getting when I need to do my brakes

 

Maybe your calipers' pistons are stuck ?? I would check it first to see if it's moving freely.

 

go to the stealership and replace with what come on it...i try to always use orig equip parts ...i have always replaced pads with oem ones....the cheap parts arent cheap parts if u gotta replace them...the original brakes are pretty good...i pull several trailers with a brake controller and always get it stopped asap...

 

No sir, I was in no way saying you were full of shit, mostly just trying to dodge it from all angles.

I know I'm new on here, so I expect to get all kinds of responses. I may also be young(24), but I'm not I complete idiot when it comes vehicles and mechanics. I started driving on gravel roads at 12, and have been turning a wrench just as long. I went to aviation maintenance school also.
I'm by no means claiming to be a master mechanic, just saying I'm not oblivious. I am also not afraid to admit I'm not the most knowledgeable on brake. Yes I have done my share of brake jobs, but I have never had brake rotor problems on any of the 6 previous vehicles I have owned. That's why I came here, just looking for some advice on some higher quality brake.

My job now is a little tough on vehicles. In Microwave Telecom I spend 1000 miles on the highway, just immediately go off road, sometime on rough trails up and down 2000+ ft mountains, but I take care of my truck. I'm still trying to get it back into shape from the previous owner.

Talking about being tough on brakes, I took a friends 01 Z28 on a track one time.100mph on the straight away and 30 in turns with stock brakes. Now that got the brakes hot... and no, they didn't warp

Looks like you guys have given me some good ideas though, I thank all of you very much.

Now if I'm going to make it home, I gotta quit pulling over and typing on tacoma world... you know what they say, "tacoma world, its a trap!"

Harrisburg PA, next stop, Plano Tx.

Again, thanks everyone.

 

Easy- Slots= More surface area. That surface area isn't contacted by brake pad so it does not generate heat. At the same time heat does conduct thru the metal and that concave slot has more surface area than a flat spot...giving better heat dissipation.

Slotted- Yes...Drilled-No thanks. They crack to easy, specially when you are offroad driving in mud/water. They might work well for road cars...but I would be hesitant to use them on a truck

 

If your looking for a good drilled rotor--Zimmerman is probably one of the best and the steel is top quality but like everything else they can crack in extreme circumstances....I like solid slotted rotors because no worry about cracks from any drilled hole to any drilled hole. One thing to be sure of though....DON'T GO CHEAP ON YOUR BRAKES!!! When you want to stop you usually have a damm good reason and that is not the time to wonder if the lower bidders equipment is going to work.....By the way ceramic pads are nice and I really really like them but they will not stop you as quick as the oem or equivalent pad...akebono is my favorite but again if you need to stop I wouldn't go with a ceramic bad...tirerack is best place to look and maybe buy. You can compare on their website very easily...

 

I bought slotted and dimpled rotors from brakeperformance.com to put on my Acura TL Type S. I have had not problems after 16k miles. Rotors have a lifetime warranty against warping.

 

I warped the stockers after about 70K miles

But I have been stopping from 100+ mph at the track several times

I bought the powerslot slotted rotors cyrotreated. The cryo makes them something like 30% stronger. That will help stop the warping from happening. I love mine so far

 

don't get the drilled ones, they will eventually cause uneven wear and make grooves

 

Won't slotted cause the pads to wear faster? I understand the heat dissipation aspect but won't the grooves/slots catch more on the pads causing more wear?

 

Nope the way the rotor is machined and the direction it is turning prevents that.....(this is of course a very very simple answer coming from a very very simple Taco owner---but it's the shortest one I could think of and the easiest to understand)

 

I appreciate the quick response Is there a certain pad to use like Hawk ceramics? I had powerslots before on my old s10 Blazer with some ceramic police pads and the wore really fast. Would like to avoid this again when I do get rotors. Sorry for the

 

Hawk Ceramic is a dustless pad (I think that is what you call it) and is a good pad but will not stop you as quick as the standard pad. (Somebody help me out here) I think standard pads are steel---(Damm can't remember the proper name...guess it's cause I'm old) but you can find a number of good quality pads that are not ceramic...Hawk, Akebono. Go this web site and shop...lots of good info on it and you can check boxes to compare....I'm not advertising for them but they seem to have the best price.... www.tirerack.com You may also need new brake lines but stainless steel seems to be the best. Again tire rack has suggestions you can order from....

 

Lol just got some Hawl LTS from there!

 

I'll share a little brake info, because there's lots of mis-information going around. I learned about brakes on race cars, BMW's and Porsches, and have 15 years of track time under my belt. A couple things to consider:

1) For the vast majority of 'warped rotors' they're not really warped at all, if you run them out and mic them they are usually in spec. What happens is the brake pad compound can fuse to the rotor and create high spots, and that causes pulsations. Solution? Either put the rotors on a brake lathe and turn them, or replace them.

2) Slotted rotors are for the race track, and cause pads to wear faster. You will NEVER get a Tacoma run on the street hot enough to need them. You may like the way they look, but you don't need them and they're not nearly as effective at keeping things cool as a floating rotor design, which is what we run on the race cars. A floating rotor is not sexy looking, but its a 2-piece rotor with a riveted 'hat' that keeps the temps down by allowing the contact surface to expand while the 'hat' stays cooler. Again, you never need it on a street vehicle. And stay away from drilled rotors . Drilling compromises the rotor and they WILL crack. Only if the holes are cast in the rotor during production, such as Porsche does with their rotors, will they not crack.

3) Don't buy high performance track pads for a street vehicle. They won't get up to temperature in street driving and therefore will stop poorly, they rattle, squeal (caused by high speed vibration of the pad in the caliper bracket) and throw off gobs of hot brake dust, some of which can damage your paint job as they have metallic bits in them that will fuse to the topcoat.

4) Stainless steel brake lines are great on a race car that has high heat, but just bling on a pickup truck.

5) If anyone is concerned about heat in their brakes, the # 1 thing you can do to prevent brake failure is regular changes of your brake fluid, which loses temp ratings as it ages. It absorbs moisture, which lowers the max temp rating, and in race care its changed monthly, or sooner.

Realistically, just get a new set of brake pads for the street, Toyota OEM is all you need, and a new set of OEM rotors or have the ones on the truck turned. You don't need more than that.

One other thing to note, is a pulsating feel in the steering can also be caused by a defective tire, or worn tire rod bushings. Its not always the rotors.

Good luck,
Duane

 

Awesome info.

 

Thanks I just got alot smarter....

 

Agree with 1 and 3. Agree with the no drilled rotors.
Don't agree that slotted rotors are a waste. And I don't agree that OEM is the best option. There are intermediates- You don't need to get high performance track pads, but a low dust upgrade pad is a good call.
Also don't agree that SS lines are "just bling" on non track vehicles. My stopping distances shortened and my braking feeling changed dramatically. (And that was after a fluid flush and bleed with the stock lines then the SS lines).
Totally agree with #5...It also forces you to bleed them regularly.

On that note- I got the Motive Power Bleeder to try out with when I swap my Scion brakes in the next month or so...

 

Please report back on your experience with the Motive Power Bleeder. It seems like some of us are having trouble bleeding after SS lines are installed. I don't understand why this should make any difference. Any insight ? Curious George