I used 0W30 by mistake, should I change it immediately?

Yup, I pulled a bone head maneuver today... While doing outdoors chores, I decided to change the earl in the '15 Taco w/ the mighty 2.7 I went to wally world to get some Mobile 1 and I swore that the truck used 0W30.

Once I got the the old filter off and the old earl drained ( note to self: take the freeking drain cap off of the change pan so that the hot, used earl goes into the reservoir instead of all over the driveway...)

I fill the new Toyoter earl filter w/ some of the fresh 0W30 and install it. I opens the hood to pour the rest of the 5qt jug of liquid gold down the valve cover and what do I see?? Yup, the freeking fill cap with a big 'Ole 0W20 !!!

Hmmm, I say. I'd be completely OCD if I emptied out the brand new filter, ran to Naper and got more liquid gold in the correct weight, refilled the new filter then filled the crank case. I didn't have anymore filters on hand ( I only use OE or WIX filters, neither can be found anywhere around where I live) so I said 'what the hell' and poured the rest of the jug and 1 additional qt down the hole.

It started fine, I honestly can't think that going up 1 summer grade would really hurt anything, the clearances in the engine can't be so tight that 30 weight will cavitate and foam, but I thought it couldn't hurt to ask the more knowledgeable folks here on TW for their opinions on the matter.

Thanks in advance!

 

Unless you are in a really cold climate I can't see it hurting anything as long as the API spec is correct, the earlier 2.7s actually called for 5W30.

 

You’re fine. Just changed my oil today, as well. Edit: tighten up the intake duct work while you’re feeling ambitious

 

Wasn't the lower viscosity to increase the MPG on the later 2.7l? My owner's manual for my 2006 2.7l states 10W-30 can be used but should be replaced with 5W-30 at the next oil change.

Isn't the 0W the winter number and the 20 for summer, so the oil he used shouldn't be affected by using 0W-30 in winter, but will be higher in viscosity as the 30 would be for warmer weather?

 

0 is for cold start
30 is for hot operating temp thickness...

 

Sounds like we’ve all been told different things what the numbers mean. I was told 10w30 is 10 weight oil with the properties of 30 weight oil. Sounded right at the time. Back then there was no internet or smart phone to confirm. I never grew the ambition to check the facts.

 

You gon' die.

 

My Uncle Pete who was a lifelong old school mechanic would have let out a chuckle if he read your post, OP. The oil freaks got you so fluxed up you think them numbers are the tight confines you need to exist in. You think if you venture out across the 10 w this and 0 w that then all hell breaks loose. If the lube is fresh and in the right amount to create acceptable oil pressure, then your internals will get the love they need.

Fu*€, one time I was in my old Uncle Pete’s garage and this rich suave dude drove in and asked for an oil change. Mind you it was Friday at six pm and that was when the sign said the shop closed. Uncle Pete had supper waiting at home and his belly was growling, but he believed in customers first. So he changed the oil out of the high roller’s Olds 98. I helped him. When we were done he submitted the bill and the guy paid and drove off. Three minutes later the guy came back hotter than a highway flare. Must’ve read the breakdown on his receipt. He reefed on Uncle Pete bad for using 30 weight instead of 40 weight. Called him a grease monkey chump, them exact words. I watched Uncle Pete grin. He looked at this guy and said, “I’m sorry , Sir. I can either refund your money or rechange the oil to 40 weight.” The guy was in a hurry he said and wanted cash back. Uncle Pete handed him his money back and the guy peeled out of the service station.

It was now 6:30pm. I felt totally jacked and dejected. Uncle Pete looked totally at ease. I asked him why he wasn’t upset. I said, “we just plum wasted 30 minutes and you lost money.” He just gave that Gentle Uncle Pete smile and said, “maybe I should have asked him what weight he wanted, my mistake.”

 

Going back to the question, I’m pretty sure you’ll be ok. Summer is coming, the extra heat will help. The only reason to be concerned would be if you live someone very cold and you have very low mileage.

Really, any oil is better than no oil. I heard some engines require 5 weight due to tighter tolerances.

 

That's pretty much what everyone was taught.

Simply the first number is the winter rating and the last number is the operating temp viscosity rating.

People used to think 5w30 would burn in their old motors because of misinformation.

Toyota is shifting to 0W16 now for all models.

 

on a 4.0L
4.0L asks for 5w30

he says his 2.7 asks for _w20 in the manual

that is called volatility
choose a cheap shitty oil, it will burn off
good expensive oil does not

pay sticker price on good oil, it costs a lot
shop around and do a rebate
it does not

which will probably not burn
because it is probably expensive high quality

 

As long as you didn't put it in your tranny you should be fine. drain from dip stick and top off with some 10w30

 

I'd run it

 

He'll be fine.

Multiweight oils have massively wide temperature ranges for correct viscosity:


Just about *any* SAE oil in whateverW-whatever# will be absolutely fine as long as it is changed at appropriate intervals.

Yes, if you put 15w-30 in a motor spec'd for 0w-20 you might get 1 less MPG on average, but that would be about the only consequence of any meaning whatsoever.

 

And does anyone think they changed the manufacturing engine tolerances when they made that change? It was just to make the boyz and Gyoils at the EPA happy I bet.

 

FWIW, I use a multi-viscosity oil based on the anticipated temperature range of the area I live.

IE. I live in Central Iowa, our typical temperatures will range from -25F (winter) to 100F (summer), or to match the chart above -31C to 38C. Meaning, I use 5w30 year round. Sometimes 5w40, if its on sale or 5w30 shelf is empty.

Where I live, I don't see a need for a 0w## oil. I have never seen a temperature of -40F or -40C. Coincidentally, these are the same temperature.

 

So, once you reach 100 K on your Tacoma, should you go to a heavier oil? Like maybe 0-30 instead of 0-20? Notice that Mobile 1 has a high mileage version.

 

Do you think it has more internal wear at 100K than it did at 50K? If you've kept up on your oil changes and don't drive in extreme conditions, there should be very little wear on your internals. With that in mind, I would stick with the manufacturer's recommendation. I wouldn't overthink it.
On a higher mileage engine, if you're seeing some seal seepage, I might consider switching to a 'high mileage' blend, but even then I'd be hesitant.

However, I would just roll with the 0W-30 for this change (OP), and go back to the recommended on the next.

 

Always stick with the manufacturer's recommended viscosity if you can. No need for heavier oil. Used car dealerships will often throw heavier oil in the engines to quiet down noises they don't want the potential customers to hear. I have used the high mileage oils in the past. Is it necessary? I'm not sure. But it is more peace of mind. Chances are everything around your engine will start to go and add up in repair costs before any major engine components under normal usage.

 

Breath easy. 30w won't hurt a thing. That 2.7 is perfectly fine with anything from 0w-20 to 10w-40.