I used 0W30 by mistake, should I change it immediately?

We should have an icon or symbol or color code next to the title of every TacomaWorld thread which would signify an issues that is not possible or present on an electric truck. The list is vast ... vtune , catalytic converter thieves, fuel pump recall, manual vs auto , no automatic transmission fluid level check, mpg too low , 5.29 gears vs 4.88 , transmission cooler for towing , won’t shift into 4low /stuck in 4 low , “should I wait till 10k for first oil change”, Rough idle/ shutter , white smoke comes from tail pipe on steep incline , which skid plates , which intake / exhaust is best , tail pipe chop , dealership sucks, “ what did you pay for your new 20xx truck ”
*cyber truck specific non issues : “paint chipping / recall”, how to coat frame for rust , “got into road rage and some one shot at my truck”

anywayssss... ya the 0w30 oil is good , be sure to buy like a million filters and several barrels of oil over the next few years. Oh also ya , Tacoma , you now need to buy some special “tool” to undo the oil filter housing , and and and ya , the oem plastic housing needs to be replaced with a metal one apparently. That’s just the oil change. It’s all good these fees will just build up over the years so you won’t really notice all the money gone or time and headache spent on the good ol truck with drum breaks .

 

What in the actual F. Stop doing drugs. It's not even Friday.

OP, the oil is fine.

 

#1...the 2.7 has a traditional spin-on filter.

#2...

 

Poor earl....

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKdhgKUZhPA

 

I have a 2009 2.7. When I use the specified 0w20 it leaks. When I use 10w30 dry as a bone.

 

From a 1951 GMC pick-up Owners manual. Things just have not changed that much in 70 years, kids.

 

Jesus this gets old.

 

When 10w-30 oil is at a specific cold temperature it has the viscosity of straight 10w at that temperature. When it is at a specific hot operating temperature it has the viscosity of hot straight 30 weight.

 

All of todays oils are a magnitude better then what we where using in the 70's and on. Any oil that is even close to the manufacturer's spec's will be fine.

 

Bear in mind that engines with VVT are more sensitive to oil viscosity. The VVT system is tuned for the oil weight recommended.

 

ROFLMAO......

Just wait until you need to change the battery pack.

Or need to make a repair or it burst into flames due to fault battery/charger.........


NO vehicle is made without faults. As the old saying goes....."If it has wheels or boobs, it will be a problem."

 

Evidently not for the CO, for which it is exclusively intended for.

 

Lets put it this way, like others have stated first number is 0"weight" on cold starts. This number of thickness of the oil even 0 weight is THICKER at under 100*f ambient temps than the final 30 weight at standard running temps (~190-210*f coolant temps). Needless to say you are doing yourself a SERVICE of running the 0w-30 for your truck vs 5w-30 as even tho its thicker than whats necessary to run the motor at operating temp its closer to it vs the 5w.


That stated, it wont matter for either.

Just dont run thicker final, the motors even in the hottest of climates wont run "hotter".

 

Not really. A 0w-20 at cold startup is considerably thicker than a 5w-30 at operating temperature. If that were the case, damage would be done every time you drive the vehicle the first few miles.

VVT systems operate on oil pressure not viscosity.

Also....many engines that recommend 0w-20 in The States will have heavier recommendations in other parts of the worlds. Not to mention that some of Toyota's engines from a few years ago had 0/20 retro recommend after starting out living on 5/30....no physical changes made to the engine.

 

Tell me, would you guys consider dust as extreme conditions? The dirt roads I drive on, have a cloud of dust from the dirt and the dust from the limestone the county uses to make the roads passable in wet weather. Sometimes the cloud of dust is a half mile long from the previous driver. I do check my air filter regularly.

 

Yes it is. Your filter operates at a certain % efficiency. That means a certain % gets through. Checking your air filter is good, but I would change oil more frequently too.

 

Dust is very abrasive and can infiltrate damn near anything.

Definitely, shorten your maintenance intervals under those conditions.

 

lmao

 

Yes, really. Viscosity and oil pressure are related. Within limits you may not even be aware that your VVT system is not operating at peak efficiency. It's the viscosity at operating temperature that matters. At some point you could throw a code. The VVT systems from different manufactures will have different sensitivities. I haven't experimented with different viscosities, so I don't personally know how sensitive the Toyota 4.0 is. My point was that if you are planning to use a different viscosity, and you have VVT, you could have a problem.