I want a truck that Toyota never made

The attention to detail, and constant "buttoning up" of the truck is just flawless. I know many people that would've gotten to the point of it running and driving and gone "yeah I'm good here."

Bravo sir

 

Awesome write up!! I’ve tried a few mod’s like you but mine are a little different. Not trying to step on anyone’s toes!
I went with inverted coil-overs but on the 15 supercharged Access Cab I couldn’t find a spring rates I liked. The supercharger & iron block of the 2.7L is probably more nose weight than your aluminum block 4.0L V6. The last set of springs I had in it were #525 and I felt they were too stiff. Sadly I still have boxes of 12” springs that I never got a chance to try. For alignment I just used the DJM UCA’s. There’s no need for the bottom with just 2.25” of drop. Sorry you can’t see the lower concentric washer but it’s right in the middle of the adjustment range. The Viking’s shocks here call for a 10 or 12” spring so this is the 10” spring.

Also have the same StopTech’s behind 19x8 w/ 30et & 235/50’s. Rears 8.5” w/ 33et w/ 245/50’s on forged Ray’s from a G35. Front is same offset as the OE X-runner wheels.

I also had the DJM rear notches completely welded in but I used the different style of bump stop that comes on many sports cars I.e. Miata’s.

I had brackets welded to the diff to run an X-runner rear sway.

I then copied @Rola2010 idea for front C/O springs using the OE spring & a part from SOS. This below is the C/O unloaded.

Installed. *I* think this ride/spring is far superior.

Next Mod going in… And if anyone is interested in LS swap we worked with a motor mount manufacturer to develop motor mounts that are a 100% bolt in.
Again my apologies I absolutely I’m not trying to step on any toes or take over this tread & I also have a build tread but I absolutely suck at this stuff!! So OP if I’m out of line with this post PLEASE say so and it will be deleted! Below is my ride height before the truck went to TX. for LS Swap… I like the OP’s light covers better than mine as mine are just painted then clear coated…

 

I just found a mint blue one, but this looks so much better. Nice job OP.

 

Finally getting around to doing the 4x4 leaf spring swap that I have seen a few other lowered Tacomas do. From what I have read, it gives the truck better handling and a greater load capacity. Removing the factory X-Runner rear leaf springs. 48210-AD020 for the right side and 48220-AD020 for the left side.

 

I am installing a set of rear leaf springs from a 2017 Tacoma Double Cab TRD Pro with approximately 55K mileage on them. These are the 4 pack leaf springs. In the first picture left leaf spring is model 48220-04480 and the right spring is 48210-048240. The second picture in this section shows the X-Runner leaf spring on top and the 4x4 leaf spring on bottom. I have always liked using the Allstar Performance solid aluminum blocks but the center pin is slight larger than the rear end hole... so I grind it thinner in diameter by about an 1/8 of an inch with my orange Dremel bit. Super easy to do and only takes a few minutes. Allstar Performance 1 inch block model number is 56061. Next is a picture of 4x4 leaf spring with a one inch block … compared to the factory X-Runner leaf spring with a 2 inch block.

 

Next, I have to flip the center pin bolts in the 4x4 leaf springs since the rear axel is going to be on top on the leaf spring. You can reuse this center pin bolt but I choice to replace it with a different one that the head is slightly larger in diameter for the Allstar performance blocks and slightly taller too. Model number "Superlift Leaf Spring Center Pin tie Bolts 38500". I have a picture of them side by side. Once these are installed and the nuts are tight... I have to cut the extra length off these new center pin bolts with a hacksaw.

 

Installing the 4x4 leaf springs is pretty easy. One thing that I did notice is that my URD exhaust pipe is closer to the leaf spring now but no problems with rubbing. I also noticed that my custom U bolts hang down lower than before because the 4x4 leaf spring and one inch block are about 3/4 of an inch thinner from the shock plate to the rear end. I put the rest of the truck back together and went for a short test drive to settle the 4x4 leaf springs. I then measured my truck again to check the overall height at the rear of the truck and I am sitting about an 1/8 of an inch lower than with the X-Runner factory leaf springs and a 2 inch block compared to the 4x4 leaf springs with a 1 inch block. I have only driven the truck twice so far but as of right now.. I am very happy with the new 4x4 leaf springs.

 

I noticed with mine that the rear spring rate got a lot stiffer and lets the truck handle better. Though I'm going from a base model bone stock to the 4x4 leaf springs, you may not notice as much difference since you have the Vikings and sway bar on the rear.

Side question, did you both the notch in and then weld the edges or am I seeing things?

 

Yes... for the most part. I cut out the notches and within a days or so... I got a friend to weld the notches up for me. I have not driven on the 4x4 leaf springs much... only about 30 miles or so. I do notice that they are a little bit stiffer but seem to handle much better. I am trying to pay attention to this to see what kinda adjustments that I may need to make to the Viking 2 way adjustable shocks. Just have to play around with it. The handling and ride quality is important to me but the main reason for switching to the 4x4 leaf springs.. is I am hoping that I can carry more weight in the bed. With the X-Runner leaf springs and 2 inch blocks with factory rims and 245/50/18 tires, I start to rub on small bumps on the inside of my fender flares with the sidewall corner of the tire with about 700 pounds (about 8 to 10 bags of concrete) in the bed of the truck but don't bottom out with the notches. I have such large bump stops in my notches to be able to carry a heavy load if I need to. Crazy, cus I didn't have this rubbing problem with my old Pirelli Cinturato P7 245/50/18 tires but these Pirelli P Zero 245/50/18 tires I do... the side walls bulge out just a little bit more causing it to rub when pushed up deep into the fender wells.

 

OK, that's what I though it looked like. Probably going to go the same route when I put mine in so that I don't have to wait until my friend has space in the shop to weld mine. Just was deciding if to weld the bolt hole but then I couldn't drill them out and that left me waiting until he had space to do everything.

 

I drilled out the holes on the notches for a few reasons... first because it helps to align the notch with the template that is included and second because I had to drive about 10 miles to my friends place to do the welding. If you are going to notch the frame, I highly recommend welding. I have seen a few different people out there that the bolted notches didn't hold up and started to fail. I am very happy with my notches because I was bottoming out with the factory X-Runner leaf springs and 2 inch blocks a few times a week as a daily driver.

 

Any more feedback on the 4x4 leafs? Based on your initial feedback, it looks like I could swap to those from the xrunner springs and remove my 1” block and get a similar height but with added stiffness, which may help reduce the occasional bottoming out. In my state I can’t notch the frame without running into possible inspection issues, so if that’s the case, this would be the route for me to go.

 

I have driven the truck now for about 2 weeks with the 4x4 rear leaf springs. I like them very much and would recommend for a setup like mine. They give a little bit of a stiffer ride and they handle better in the corners. I have had to play around with my Viking adjustable shock settings tho because they were a little bit to bouncy for me at first but with some small adjustments to the shocks... I am very happy. Currently, I am running a Compression 5 and Rebound 9 in the front with a Compression 4 and Rebound 7 in the rear. I noticed that the front driver side was about an 1/8 of an inch taller than the passenger side of the truck for some reason. I don't think this had anything to do with the swapping of the rear leaf springs. I lowered the driver side down to make it level. I am guessing that something in the front end settled in over time. So, I took my truck back to Texas Track Works for them to check my alignment. I have included their alignment report. I am very happy with the specs. I have not had the chance to carry a heavy load in the bed as of yet and test the leaf springs on this but once I do... I will comment on that in the future.
UPDATE
Still running the Compression 5 and Rebound 9 in the front but on the rear I had to increase the compression because the 4x4 leaf springs were becoming bouncy... kinda like a little bit of bucking from the rear of the truck. I adjusted the rear Viking shocks to Compression 6 and Rebound 9 and they seem to be a lot better. So far very happy with this easy adjustment. With the higher spring rate on the 4x4 leaf springs requires a higher compression rate to tame them.

 

I totally don’t understand why if the notch was completely welded in why it would be considered unsafe!?

Also,
Am I the only one to run Mustang GT 19 x 9 w/ +45 & 19 x 9.5 w/ +52 wheels on their 5 lug Taco?
Only thing bad is it’s almost impossible to reach the adjustment on the rear shocks. But at least they don’t rub anywhere especially bedside and I think they kind of stretched the 255 & 275/45 tires a bit. Anyone interested in some spotless wide Mustang wheels that tuck?
But I found a set of Infiniti wheels that are 19 x 8.5 w/ +43 & 19 x 9 w/ +45 I’m trying next! Well as soon as I get the truck out of the shop!

 

Love this!! Probably going to copy everything you did on my 2012 prerunner. Just one question tho. What did you do in the back? Did you just grab sos 2inch front and 3.5inch rear lowering kit?

 

Also I see you used strictly streets mounts, why didn’t you use their whole front coilover kit instead?

 

Ok, you are going to do the whole X-Runner rolling chassis swap? I did use the SOS 2 inch kit in the past but changed up. Current setup... In the rear of the truck, I used the X-Runner rear axle with the X-Runner leaf springs and a 2 inch solid aluminum blocks made by All-Star. I am also using Viking's 2 way adjustable shocks to match the front coilovers and to dial in the ride quality that I want because I use this truck as a daily. I also used the DJM notch kit that I welded in place. So, I am only 2 inches lowered in the rear of the truck. In the front of the truck, I used the DJM 3 inch lowering kit (front upper and lower control arms) so that I could align the truck easier and have less camber issues that I have heard about but I didn't want my truck that low... so I used a taller spring with my Viking 2 way adjustable coilovers to raise the truck about 1 1/4... so I am roughly 1.75 inch drop in the front of the truck.

 

I used the Strictly Street mounts for my coilovers because I like the look of them, they looked stronger to me, and I like Strictly Street's stuff (good quality).... just a personal preference I guess. The only other coil bucket shock mount that I knew of at the time as Dirt King. I never tried them... just a personal preference.

I am a little confused about what you are asking on using "their whole front coilover kit"? I didn't know that Viking made a coilover that just mounts to the X-Runner shock tower... maybe this is something new or I was not aware of.

 

He's talking about this: https://www.strictly-street.com/toyota/x-runner/coilover-kit-x-runner-2005-2015

I'm currently waiting on that kit for my truck. Little concerned now over the spring rates, I ordered the 650 springs after asking them what they recommend for a street truck and then later read some threads where the 550 or even 450 springs were found to be more appropriate. So now I haver Hyperco bookmarked so i can order different springs if needed.

 

I can’t say that I do, either. My state has weird laws like this which make no sense, but it is what it is.

On another note, I found a pair of 4x4 leafs (part #s 48220-04492 and 48210-04812) from a 2022 TRD Sport and was able to do the swap today. I gained about 1” on both sides, and it is noticeably stiffer than what I had on it (base model springs). Definitely an improvement.

EDIT: To avoid spreading misinformation, I just realized the “stock” leafs I swapped were, in fact, not stock. I took a better look at your pics and realized mine have these added on them: Icon add-a-leafs:



I thought I was just miscounting, lol.

The icon kit is supposed to add 1.5”; mine raised 1” after install - which means genuinely stock springs would have in theory dropped it 0.5”, more consistent with what was expected.

I’m fine with the lift and free upgrade though. Lol