I wasn't planning on changing oil today...

No chance. It is tucked up well above the skid plates. If it does get hit, you will have worse problems to worry about then just leaking oil.

 

Home Depot sells some Channel Locks made for pipe and oil filters up to 3.5 inches in diameter. They are adjustable and work perfectly on the middle setting.

 

I had two sizes of strap wrenches and neither of them would get close to the base. That was my initial thought as well.

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me.
I don't think the heat will affect the filter that much, you just need to use the right tool. I use a plier filter wrench, and have never had a problem using it. And I'm not sure I would suggest anyone taking off they're filter slightly, then putting it back on and driving around. Not a good idea in my opinion.

 

maybe after 36,000, i have a case of the good japanese stuff to go through first.

 

Stick with Toyota parts. OEM is almost always best for fitment and performance. They designed the vehicle ffs.

 

As previously stated, It sucks the first time because you never know how it was installed. I never use one either, as I don't over tighten them to begin with.

But that being said,

I never liked the ones like this:

First off I have too many different vehicles and they don't adjust. The dealer used one of these on the factory filter (just to loosen it for me, and it would just jump/spin after massive muscle trying to get it off. They sent me on my way as I called them amateurs and broke down and bought one of these:



I prefer the ones like this, and if it slips, put a piece of sandpaper grit side to the filter and it'll twist the base off the body before it slips, making it easy to chisel it off.

Then non-mechanically inclined people come up with crazy crap like this:

Don't use this one.

 

I had to use a large extention with a filter socket and an impact wrench to get my first filter off. Thought I was gonna blow my back out with one of those strap wrenches. I was showered with 20w50 but it came off, finally.

 

I'm talkin' mainly consumables (filters, plugs, belts, etc.) that are engine specific.

 

I think Attila the Hun put mine on. I even came on line and asked it the filter was lefty loosey.

X2. K&N FTW

 

+1 That's how I have to remove the oil filter on my CBR954rr.....it sits right behind the headers and there isn't even enough room to fit an oil filter wrench anyway.

 

+1. 1" nut FTW...it also has a some pretty nice results of filtering and flow. My next one is gonna be a over-sized one from K&N.

 

What number is the oversized one?

 

The regular one is HP-1002

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1002

and the oversized is HP-2009

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-2009

A guy named Boone on TN uses it and he gave me the info on it!

 

Thank you for the info.

 

Anytime someone is changing their oil it is a very good rule of thumb to change the oil when it is at operating temperature. This insures that most particulates that are floating around the engine will be suspended in the oil. when the plug is pulled, most all of these particulates will flush right out of the engine.

Grab a small handful of fine metal shavings and throw them into some cheap oil if you want to see it for yourself. Stir the oil and watch how the metal is suspended in the oil. Then let it sit for an hour or so and watch how the metals float to the bottom of the pan. If you pull a plug on that pan you will notice that the metal by no means leaves the pan like it will when it is in suspension.

 

I literally tried 5 different types of filter wrenches until I'd dented the filter so bad I had to use the screwdriver.

They are crazy torqued from the factory...

 

x2

 

mine was f'n tight from the factory too. Its probably put on dry and the the rubber gasket "welds" to the block. Ive always had good luck with a filter wrench. Even if its super tight and you cant move it, if you hold as much pressure as you can on it you can feel it slowly turning and it will come loose. Because the seal is rubber it grips really well. in theory if you hold pressure to the stuck seal the rubber will slowly let go... and dont forget to oil the seal of the new one so IT doesnt get baked on

 

seriously..if you have metal filings floating around..there are bigger fish to fry. most guys here change oil more frequently than recommended by the factory. i am downright anal about it. now if there are filings floating around...suspending them into my oil is the last thing i want. i would love to have them settled down, right next to my drain plug, so they flush when i crack open the hole. either way, i think dicking with a hot motor isnt worth the miniscule advantage you state. try this with a hot 911 motor, and it is like pissing sideways in the wind. 12 quarts comes out, like the first piss after a hot night of sex...you're gonna get alittle bit on the rim..