I4, first oil change

My 2012 Toyota Tacoma, 4x4 with the I4 engine is approaching 1500 miles. I am thinking 1500 would be good for the first oil change.

A few questions,

1) is there a special break-in oil in the engine from Toyota that should not be changed yet ?

2) what oil filter should I use ?

3) what oil should I use ? the manual specifies 0-w20

 

1. Not that I'm aware of.

2. Use the Toyota ones for warranty non-issues, also 2 for 8.50 is good deal.

3. Use 0-20w.

I'd just wait until 2000-2500 miles before changing it unless you have been rough on it or driving in harsh conditions.

 

Toyota filter sounds good, nearest dealer is about 25 miles. I might order online. Does anybody have the part number for the filter, and I think my dad mentioned on his toyota that there is a washer on the drain plug that should be replaced.

Part numbers for these would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

The P/N is 90915/YZZD3. You can find a case for $35+ tax & shipping on ebay. I bought a case a while back. I am not sure if the price is the same.
Its from a dealership local to me in San Diego so i just picked em up at the parts counter. Came out to a bit over $3.80/filter. Not a bad deal...

 

Some good filters include

The Toyota OEM " undecided " mentioned or the YZZD1

Denso First Time Fit 15-1002(Denso makes the OEM filter but these are made better, and only slightly more expensive

Purolator Pure One PL10241

Use one of the above and a SM or SN rated oil every 5K miles, and engine lubrication issues will be a non-issue.

The recommended

$52 0w-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w-20 oil is now becoming very available at Wal-Mart. Most larger stores carry it in Pennzoil, Quaker State and Mobil 1.

Hope this helps

 

Honestly its not worth changing your oil. Just wait until the 5k service, its not worth spending money on something is not needed. I had my oil changed at 5k and it was still good.

 

Look up Magnusson-Moss.

While I agree that Toyota filters are among the best and Fram is shit, US Federal law prohibits Toyota from denying warranty coverage due to the use of even a Fram filter unless they can show that the aftermarket parts were the cause of the failure.

They CAN deny warranty coverage if they provide mandated parts at no cost.
Same goes for labor.

Under Magnusson-Moss, the issues using a Purolator/Bosch/Mobil-1/Fram filter are no different than actually doing the oil change yourself.
Just keep your receipts and document the date and mileage.


One caveate:
Extended warranties are not considered "warranties" and are therefore not protected by Magnusson-Moss. They are more properly "Service Contracts" and you are bound by the terms of the contract. These contracts can dictate anything the writer wants.
I bought an extended warranty from Crown Toyota when I bought my Tundra and it was worthless. It specified that ALL work had to be done at one specific shop. This shop was a little independent in Santa Fe Springs (about 40 miles from the dealer!).
I managed to get my money back on that one.

When I bought my wife's '04 Rav4 from Carson, I made damned sure I was getting the actual Toyota extended warranty.




Didn't need to use it... 125k on that Rav today.

 

Since your vehicle is new, I'd wait until the 5,000mi service since it's covered under Toyota Care. All your factory scheduled servicing is covered through Toyota Care for the next 24 months. Use it or loose it I guess.

 

winter time I use 0-20 and summertime I go to 5-30. I also use OEM filters

 

Funny, not 1 person here recommended the right oil filter. The right one ends with G1 for the 4cyl, I do oil changes all day long at the Toyota dealership so i'm sure of this. The dealership will give you the right one anyways.

 

The yzzd1 is what the Toyota Dealer gave me. And have seen it for sale at Toyota dealer websites as the correct filter.

 

Looking at the parts listing now and I'm not seeing a "YZZG1" listed.

90915-20003 /

$54 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD1 and shows as the correct filter for the 2.7, 2.4, and 3.4
90915-20004 /

$55 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD3 is for the 4.0 and 4.7

Keep in mind that there are two different filters made (by Denso?) for Toyota.
The 90915-YZZDx is a basic paper media filter, and is what you get when you buy a filter.
The 90915-2000x is the factory-installed filter and is a very different media construction:

Neither Toyota filter is similar to the Denso crossreference part...

 

Here is a link to a Toyota Dealer that sells filters. Been in business on ebay for many years.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Taco...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item483f595bcf

 

It's a polished turd. Same filter, just has the grippy thing on the can.

 

Better deal here...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-O...=310300466127&ps=63&clkid=8400068489379300030
$4/filter with shipping.
Franks is almost $6.

Titus-Will and Toyota of Dallas are under $4 per filter, but minimum $9 shipping or 10% of the total order... decent deal if you buy a case or need other parts to mitigate shipping.

But seriously... your local dealer shouldn't be more than $4-$4.50

 

Nope.
It is exactly the same filter, just has a different can.

They marketed a TG for a while that had PTFE impregnated into a part of the element. DuPont has come right out and stated that PTFE should not be put into engines.

No, you will not likely see a problem running Fram.
You will not likely see a problem running a Fram filter that you've stuck something into and perforated the media.

Oil related failures, barring severe contamination, take tens of thousands of miles to surface. My ex-wife's dad NEVER changed the oil in any of his cars. His attitude was that he'd just change the filter every 3000 and add a fresh quart, then top off any time it was low.
He was also the last owner of every car that he ever owned... he was quite proud of the fact that he would eventually tow his car to the junk yard.

 

Personally, I use the Purolator Pure-One
It's about $6 and is one of the better filters available.

Mobil-1 and K&N are identical. The only difference is you pay $3 to have the nut welded to the top on the K&N... and given the way the filter sits up there on the 2.7 it's not a bad idea... if you don't mind wasting $15+ on a filter that's no better than the $6 PureOne.

Price is my driving force in staying away from Mobil-1.. it's an excellent filter, but it's no better than the PureOne, and honestly, the Purolator bypass valve is a better design than the Mobil-1 valve.

Outside of those, Bosch is also a top-level filter. It is made in the same factory as Purolator (Bosch bought Purolator back in '05 or '06), and is identical to the Purolator Classic.

Fram also makes other brands... Microgard, Pennzoil, and others are Fram.
Champion Labs used to make Bosch and was a good filter, but now they are using a design that is no better than Fram. Their current OEM are STP, AC/Delco, and Supertech (WalMart)... maybe others.
Of note, yet... Champion is still making the Mobil-1 and K&N, but they are still using the older design, as those are synthetic-media premium filters... but as I said, they simply are not worth the $13-$16 unless you just have to have that nut on the bottom.


But best bang for the buck?
Toyota dealer for the

$54 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD1
Cheaper than the Pure-One, might be a buck more than the basic Fram, and it's a good filter.

 

I've always used the Toyota filter, especially after the big oil filter showdown on this forum...

what's everyone's thoughts on Castrol High-Mileage oil for a 125k I4? I've never used synthetic in this truck but I'm thinking synthetic in the gearbox and rear on the next service.

 

125k is not high mileage for a Toyota

Seriously....

The "high mileage" formulations are modified. Though the viscosity is spec for the grade, they "act" heavier. Mobil-1 has a comparison of it's various oils and shows that the high mileage versions are not optimal for fuel economy.

It would be interesting to send a couple of virgin samples to see what the difference in the additive package is, but the idea behind the high mileage formula is to help reduce oil consumption.

If you aren't losing more than a quart between oil changes (my wife's Rav4 uses about 1/2qt every 5k, 125k on the engine), then you don't need the high mileage.