ICECO JP50 portable refrigerator initial review

Confirmed.

 

I'm in no rush. I need to recoup from Black Friday and general XMas spend. Early next spring works just fine for me!

 

Thanks man!! All my Christmas money is gone now though. You gonna borrow a TW brother some $$ so i can order?

In my cart and about to order. Thanks for confirming fitment. Bout tired of the Iceco plug.

 

FWIW, I have been running my refrigerator off of a Ryobi inverter that uses my 40watt battery packs for my yard equipment. I have 2 6amp and a 4amp battery and also carry a charger in the truck. The setup is much less hassle than my old solar and inverter setup and I can keep my refrigerator running almost indefinitely as long as I am driving the truck intermittently. It’s perfect for the 4 to 5 day trips I often take and only cost me $70 for the inverter.

 

Cool. I may start a new thread and tag you in it just to keep track.

I know that's right. No complaints on the fridge, but that plug leaves a bit to be desired. I justified it by knowing that I saved ~$600 over the smaller ARB. Figured $30 for a plug wasn't as bad as paying more for a fridge. Just kind of wish ICECO would have included a nicer plug from the beginning. Now I need to see how long the E1000 will power the fridge on DC where my kids won't play with it!

 

If you go with just the VL35, it's only 15" tall and will fit perfectly under the cover and that's on a slide out rack on top of the bed mat. I did get the VL46 but I don't use the collar.

 

Good luck on that!! And yep my 10, almost 11 year young son has one job - make sure that plug stays plugged in! NOPE. Our trip to Mason was only a few hours away and the plug was pulled and no power. That's just one example. But he's learning.

 

Alpicool makes a lot of these new "overland" fridges you are starting to see companies come out with. I have found a few that were straight copy with a new name but claimed some new technology. I have a rebranded Alpicool and it's been running great. I leave it on 24/7, Dual-zone, Runs via an app on BT, 2 year warranty, stout cover, and was $450 for a 60L. The temps will fluctuate its just the nature of these and going to be obvious but leaving the lit open is going to drop big time but it picks back up pretty quick. Do make sure you allow for plenty of room around it for venting so you do not tax the compressor. I had a previous one and the compressor died. It was vented but my guess, not enough so it took a beating.

I was looking at these as well, very similar to some of the overseas brands but haven't found a match just yet, some very close versions but not an exact one.

 

Perfect! Thank you!

 

Thanks!

 

ARB DC plug fits like a charm. No more stacking shiat up against the plug so it doesn't get jarred loose. Thanks for the head's up @CowboyTaco

 

You're welcome. It's a huge improvement!

 

Great review OP! Btw, have you tried to running the JP40 on the AC outlet in your Truck while your driving? I believe the AC adapter is 90W and the Outlet is rated for 100W while the truck is running and 400W while parked.

 

I can't speak for OP, but I'm a little confused. You can't charge the JP40. I assume you are talking about charging the Jackery. I have not attempted to charge mine using the 100w/400w bed outlet, though I suppose that could be interesting to test. I've charged mine using the cigarette lighter in the truck. If the truck has accessory power but is not running, it shows to pull around 40W. That is doubled to about 80W when the truck is running.

If you are talking about running the JP40 while connected to the 100W/400W AC outlet in the bed, you should have no problem doing that as my JP40 pulls around 50W when the compressor is running and only about 1W when it is idle.

 

You are correct sir! I meant to say "run" the JP40 not "charge "and thanks for confirming you can use the 100w outlet. *edited my last post to correct

 

@CowboyTaco

Just curious, what was your longest drive having the JP40 plugged into the 100W/400W outlet? Has the outlet turned off on you while the truck was running?

 

I did about 4 hours with my ARB 37L (same compressor as ICECO) in the back of a 4Runner plugged into the 100W/400W outlet. No issues there, and I assume that outlet would be wired the same as what is in the bed of the TRD Tacoma models. It did not cut off until power to the vehicle was cut.

I no longer have that ARB fridge, as I now have the JP40. I have not run the JP40 connected to the AC outlet in the bed of the truck. I added a Jackery to the equation so that I can easily switch it between vehicles. The Jackery is also the only brand that I found that allows pass-thru charging and does not recommend against it (many of the competitors will say that it is possible, but bad for the battery). So I run 12v from the truck to the Jackery and have the fridge plugged into the Jackery. They

$259 Jackery Explorer 300 , 293Wh Backup Lithium Battery, Solar Generator for Outdoors Camping Travel Hunting Blackout (Solar Panel Optional)

Jackery Explorer 300 will power the fridge for about 24 hours maintaining temp at 37* (keep in mind that all 12v fridges have roughly a +/- 3 or 4 degree swing. So me setting it at 37, it could get as low as 33* or as high as 41*.) without need for supplemental power. Any driving in that time will charge it up, as will connecting one of the solar panels. If you can swing an additional ~$250, it's a great addition to have and much more cost effective than a dual battery setup.

 

I’m kinda running short on time to get this done before my planned trip this Wednesday. I just got my jp30 in this weekend and I had planned on just plugging it in to the bed 110/120 but then was reading that was no good. So I ordered an arb harness and a blue seas socket.

what path did you wire your power from bat to bed? I’d prefer driver side because I don’t have heatshield wrapping. Do ppl run from bat through firewall then out below the seats or skip the firewall/cab altogether

edit: never mind, I just got down there and found a path following a factory harness.

 

If I were going battery to bed, I'd bypass the cab all together. Run is alongside the engine bay until it gets to the firewall and then down and zip tie it to the frame. Run that back to wherever you plan to add the connector in the bed.

Make sure you set the fridge cutoff to either Hi or Med. Stating the obvious here: Hi will be safer to make sure the truck can start but also could allow the fridge to cut off if you sit in one spot too long. Also, make sure you have an inline fuse along that run.

 

Yea I figured out the path last night and got it secured. The arb harness is 20’ and I’m short of my desired location by 2-3 ft so I’ll be picking up some 10awg at the auto store on the way home from work to finish up. The harness did come with a 15amp inline fuse preinstalled and I’ve already switched the cutout to hi. I’m still on the oem battery of almost 3 yrs. so hopefully I don’t have issues. When the time does come I’ll be getting a 27f North Star