Icon rxt leaf pack

I would only do option 1 in Access cab or no extra weight... also depends what your settings are on the 6112.

 

Double cab with a steel bumper that I want to turn into a high clearance rear, and swing out for tire only. Bed is empty usually and will never have anything heavy
There will be about .75 in of lift from 4x innovation shackle flip
Front will be adjusted to sit level with the rear
Goal is to keep lift minimal, but I also don’t want the leaf packs to rest in a W

 

Option 1 should be fine but if you add any more weight you'll wish you were on 2. Leafs were flat on Option 2 in mine with just a cap and maybe 100#s of crap

 

Been waiting for OOS rear shocks but they have shipped. I'm having a shop do the work and I'm thinking option 2 but wondering if option 3 would be "okay" with just a topper, rack, and some keep in the truck gear. Probably in the 200-300lb range most of the time. I don't want it to ride crappy for daily driving, but also want to be able to load up and not sag. I'm getting 5100/5125 shocks.

 

I still have almost 2 inches of lift on option 2 with a topper and rtt.

 

Which RTT you got? how much does your topper weigh?

 

I have an iKamper mini on top of a leer 100xr. Not sure how much the topper weighs but I’d guess around 150?

 

ive got an ikamper mini and a smartcap on the way. hoping I dont sag much with the addition of the topper

 

I'm having my Icon RTX and Bilstein shocks installed soon at a local shop. I'm sure they know what they are doing, but what sort of questions might be good to ask to ensure things are done the way I want. I'm hoping about about 2" over stock in the rear on option 2 and then about 1-1.5" in the front to maintain some rake. Here are some things I'm thinking I'll want to confirm:

1. Which option are they installing on the RTX?
2. Do break lines need to be adjusted/moved/lengthened?
3. I have sumo springs to reinstall.
4. Front end realigned - stock UCAs are okay?

Anything else to be aware of? Thanks.

 

1. confirm they are doing option 2 and setting it up correctly
2. no, but the parking brake will rub on the leafs there's a mod on here you can do at home: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/replacement-brake-line-clamp-for-icon-rxts.765590/
3. The shop should be able to do that
4. it's recommended to get aftermarket UCAs if you're getting closer to 2" on the front

 

Good point. I posted this earlier in this thread. I don't think it needs to be bent outward, but I'm only at Option 1. Just a little tweak to rotate the loop towards the back to follow the angle.

Definitely do not cut them off like the Icon instructions say.

 

For #2 you didnt mention rear shock replacement so I am assuming you are keeping stock? if you are running stock or slightly extended rear shocks (like 5160s) then no the shock will be the limiter and you may only need to bend the brake like bracket a bit to get an extra inch or two out of the soft line.

If you are going with extended length rear struts like B110s then yes you will want to extend the soft lines otherwise they will be the limiter in flex and dont take much to snap or rip.

 

I assumed he was asking about the service brakes, but we tangent-ed to the parking brakes?

 

I assumed both but Chuam posted the link to modifying the emergency brake line guide. Which was exactly what I followed and it worked great. figured I would put my two pennies in on the service brakes cause I assumed both sets of lines and only saw one answered.

 

The rear shocks will be 5125 which are extended 5100 but not as much as the B110 (or so it was explained to me). I was referring to regular brake lines as I've seen mention about them needing to be longer or something. Of course, if the parking brake is an issue need to know that as well. Mainly I just ask the shop what they plan to do and if they aren't doing anything with the brakes make sure that's the right call.

 

No doubt. I was sure to check mine after the swap.

 

It obviously wouldn't hurt to do extended brake lines with longer 5125s to be safe. Brake lines are pretty cheap and fairly easy with the correct tools especially for a shop. I would defer to someone who installed 5125's (I went B110s and had to extend them but I know they are longer than the 5125s)

 

They might settle to 2" over stock, but my truck at Option 1, with some extra weight, is still sitting at probably 2" of lift. This is after being installed for months and carrying various weights back there.

I have an aftermarket but standard (not high clearance) bumper (+30lbs), oem bed mat (+30lbs), spare tire is in bed (40lbs over stock), Swing Case with recovery gear (+30lbs), Tote with tools (+50lbs), Lomax Tonneau Cover (+30lbs), Dog Ramp (+15lbs). There are some other things in the rear of the truck that add weight, such as Hammer Hangers and Crossbrace (+20lbs). So safe to say 200lbs over stock back there, and these leafs don't budge. Throwing another 200lbs back there and I can see it visually move, but maybe only 1/4".

I'd like to do an AluCab shell next year, and an awning. That will get me to an additional 200lbs constant weight. I'd probably jump right to Option 3.

 

I did the shorter 5125s (Part Number

$112 33-230337 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230337) and still had more flex in the stock lines to spare. The other 5125s (Part Number 33-319070) have an extra 2.0in of travel. Extended lines or a spacer under the bracket might be needed.

 

I don't have this setup, but throwing out my opinion any way. I have the factory TRD Lift installed and did Option 3. The stock lines are probably okay if you don't expect to go anywhere with a lot of flex. The TRD shocks will hit their max extension before the lines do, but it made me uncomfortable on how close to tight they were. I was already dumping a bunch of money into the rear, so for $75, I got Toytec 2" longer brake lines for piece of mind.

The parking brake line will rub. I made a little Z shaped bracket out of some aluminum strap and a bolt and mounted it to the leaf keeper bolt.