Icon Stage 4 Capabilities/CV Axle Needle Bearing

To each their own. That's an extra $60, plus I hear the tool makes it way way easier, so another $60, plus shipping and taxes if applicable. That's why I waited. Plus if there's a vibe that develops, he can always just go get the TSB performed for free and Toyota will replace it with a better needle bearing.

EDIT: Here's a thread with some info on the TSB.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/needle-bearing-ecgs-and-tsb.388913/

And here's a .pdf version of it.

 

Have you seen the tsb bearing? Its like .5mm longer. Doesnt help the fact that its designed piss poor with a tolerance thats terrible. And gl getting toyota to do that job. They just say you shouldnt have lifted (mine vibed occasionally even stock, got extreme with lift.) And their tool is an overpriced pos. Go buy a 3 jaw puller for 15 from any parts store if you dont have one. Not a very special tool they "engineered". Just think when you are spending thousands to lift a truck, 100 for a seal bushing and gear oil isnt bad considering where its located

 

Nope, I have not actually seen any of these mentioned bushings. I'm just going off of the numerous people on here who have had the vibe, got the TSB, and have been fine for years to come. Even being lifted, many people have gotten the TSB done. It's not caused by the lift, just an already weak design is made even worse. It's pointless to spend unnecessary money on something you may or may not need. If someone wants to get the ECGS bushing, that's great. But saying it's worth it to just do it preventatively is silly because it's not a lot of work to take apart the front end again. That'll take like 30 minutes, tops.

 

Wish i made a video of how loosely the bearing sat on the axle. Easily .010 clearance. Heres an easy test. Go to the truck and lay under the front. Can you move your axle up and down at all(has to be I n 2wd)? That slop comes from the tolerance between bearing and axle. If its tight like pass side then no issue. If it moves a hair and you can hear it click, a bushing may be worth it. But then again i also ordered sway bar brackets (probably not needed) and carrier drop (couldve shim'd with washers) just so id have my bases covered

 

Which lift are you running and how high is your rig out of curiosity?

 

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

Is this the needle bearing you suggested?

 

That's the bushing that replaces the faulty needle bearing.

 

Yup thats it. There is a loaner pull tool floating about here on the site somewhere. Can't think of the thread.

EDIT: Get the axle seal too for $20, youll tear up the old one.

 

Is this with the truck up on jack stands and the axle unweighted or can you feel the slop with the truck just on normally on flat ground? I bought the ECGS bushing in preparation for a lift (still not sure which one yet) given the seemingly common problem with the bearing.

 

Bilstein 2nd gen 6112 and 5160. Fronts on 4th clip. Probably 2-2.5" higher than stock. With truck on ground in 2wd i could move my drivers side axle up and down by grabbing it just before it goes into the differential and pushing up n down. Cannot do this after repair with ecgs bushing.

 

Yes I can move my drivers side cv axle up and down just as you described. It is not very tight in there at all.

 

With an ecgs bushing it wouldnt budge. Amazing what a little proper machining can do.

Note on my pic of my axle where the needle bearing rides. Between the splines and sealing surface you see those 2 polished areas. Thats where the needle bearing was riding and wobbling instead of being worn even and flat like it would be if the bearing was better quality and supported the axle properly.

Found a pic of the oem bearing vs tsb bearing vs ecgs bushing. Added length cant hurt, there is space behind bearing (which is why ecgs is long and difficult to remove because it fills this space) what kills the tsb bearing imo is its the same bad design and bad manufacturing. Just a hair longer. But its also free if you can get a dealer to actually acknowlege issue and agree to replace


Edit: sorry op but

 

Haha, all good. I'm here to learn information just like the rest of us and do things right the first time as much as possible.

 

Now only 1 bushing needs to be purchased for the driver side and not the passenger side correct?

 

It looks to be on that ECGS bearing that its smooth on the inside vs the others. That's not an issue?

 

correct

 

Nope because of the material. Which is why it isnt a bearing. Its a teflon coated sintered bronze bushing. And they can last quite some time. Same fix for 2nd gens and theres a ton of em running this for a lot of miles

 

Do you have a vid how to check?

 

Somebody posted one. If I can find it, I'll post it. I could shoot one myself and post it later today too.

 

Wow I just went home for lunch and tried this out. Attempted to take a video with my phone is one hand and moving the CV with the other but it is hard to appreciate the movement, but definitely noticeable with a distinct thud up and down from the slack. Tried the same on the passenger CV - rock solid. WTF Toyota?...and which engineer thought that was a good idea?

That said with my currently stock (but overloaded state with sliders, IFS skid and rear bumper) suspension I'm not having any vibes but definitely on my radar now to get that bushing in place.