Icon Stage 4 Install Detailed Instructions

Regarding the upper arms we have closed the the gap on features between the two now that we are the first company to offer a uniball cover cap for the tubular uniball control arms. There are still the differences between the two like our dual stage bushing set up vs. adjustable rod ends. We build caster and different engineering in to the tubular arms over stock so they are great, but the billet arms offers you full control to adjust for optimum alignment and overall performance. The billet arm does carry a different look and high end appeal, but is similar in performance to that of one you would find on a off road race truck. The unique feature is they can be adjusted on the vehicle with out removing them. The rod ends are mounted with a double adjuster and pinch bolts on the inside of the arm.

Both great options and we honestly sell a fairly equal amount of both.

 

Do you have a paypal account or can you send PM your name so I can donate to BRC on your behalf? Let me know which you prefer.

I installed my Stage 3 kit yesterday and this was a HUGE help. I would be more than happy to send a couple bucks your way for your time invested in this.

Thanks

 

Have you run into any issues with your CV boots? I noticed you did not even mention doing a differential drop and am curious if you have had wear issues yet.

 

Bradda...no need Dif drop with the ICONS. Mine are only 2.5" higher than stock right now and the diff drop is negligible for that. Besides...it only makes the diff drop down into the skid pan and mine was causing the skid to look crooked and the 4wheelparts guys who put it on cross threaded the bolts because of the tight fit up of the skid against the diff drop. After reading around the forum and consulting with tons of guys who don't use the diff drop...I took the bugga off. No probs what so eva! If you were lifting higher than 3"...I would prob do it then, but less than 3...no need..

 

idk if anyone has asked this, but why use a jack on the lower control arm and then a ball joint separator? why not just let the jack down? isnt it all just bolted together nice and pretty? and whats the deal with cutting the uca bolts? if you can get new ones in why cant you get them out?

ill be doing this over the weekend... so... i suppose ill be answering my own questions soon enough if no one else can.

 

show us before and after

 

I would like to hear a comeback here- as I have some ICON arms to install myself. I'm not crazy about hacking and bending the sheet metal in the well just to get the bolts out. Now if there is enough room to install the bolts from the rear, and install the nut in front-then it makes more sense to cut the head of the bolt off shove it all to the rear and go back together with new bolts-$24, done.

Anyone?

PN# for upper bolt-90105A0095 $12.01 each

Never mind-read the whole thread.

 

How long does it take to install this set up for the average person?

 

sub'd, lots of goodness in this thread.

 

I did not have to do any sheet metal cutting to get the bolts out. I had to do some minor bending with a crescent wrench, but nothing too crazy.

 

There are a couple places you will need 2 people (pulling UCA bolts) or at least it will make things a lot easier. My first time around it took about 4hrs with 2 people to do the front and rear suspension. Make sure you have everything you need before hand and it goes together pretty smooth.

 

Anyone have a line on some nice billet clamps for the rear resi's ?

Supplied is the bracket with hose clamps, looking for something a little nicer than hose clamps to mount the resi's on the frame.

 

I figured a day would be a good idea. How about the reliability and the type of abuse this set up would take? Warranty? I was going to use 4Wheel Parts place to have them do all this, but with a front and rear set of Kings and UCA's for $3600 including labor, or Stage 4 Icon , I install for $3600 plus maybe $200 in tools I dont have. I am leaning towards the Icon. Anyone wanna chime please. Which would be a better choice? I typically do mostly moderate Colorado trails.

 

I paid right at $2600 shipped from SDHQ, and Vince put a kit together of the stuff I wanted. All Icon stuff, tube UCA's, ext travel C/O's, AAL kit and 2.0 RR's ext travels in the rear. 4WP wanted $750 to install and $150 for an alignment-!

Thanks to another member here, found me an alignment shop for $80, and will install all the components myself. $ 820 is substantial moola-especially hanging around TW a lot ! Step up and install your own stuff, easy peazy-take your time and be patient. Look at it like this, if you ever have to do a trail repair- you' ll be better equipped knowing how it all goes together.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/vendor-reviews/327309-sdhq-order.html#post8602741

 

I had to replace a strut on the trail last week, pulled the bottom of it out and bam, blew apart. So now the owner of a spring compressor. lol 4wp is only charging me $400 labor plus $150 alignment. I have a lifetime alignment deal with Firestone. I think I will go with the Icon Stage 4 with the billet UCA. Was cuious on the durability compared to Kings.

 

Nice write up!! gonna put it to use when i install mine latter this week

 

Jumpin into a stage 3 install this weekend. I have no idea what Im getting myself into. This was some really good insight. Awesome write up

 

Good write up!!

was very useful when installing my stage 4 billet. here are a few before and after. rear wasn't installed yet was waiting on the rear shocks to come in.

 

what is everyone using to lube up the uniball?

 

Teflon dry type lubricant, DuPont makes the kind I use.