ICON Vehicle Dynamics Delta Joint Retrofit Kits for 1” Uniball Applications

Hi @Icon_Adrian

My truck ('05 4x4 Tacoma) has Icon Uniball tubular UCAs installed by a prior owner. I think the Uniballs and/or bushings are worn out, so I'd like to rebuild the UCAs. It sounds like you now promote Delta Joints in all applications. (Right? Or, if Uniballs are still supported, what is the correct replacement part number for my control arm? What do you recommend?)

Here is my proposed parts list:

Bushings: 614504 -- 58450 / 58451 REPLACEMENT BUSHING AND SLEEVE KIT
Delta Joints: 614550 -- 05-UP TACO/07-UP TUNDRA/16-UP TITAN XD/19-UP GM 1500 DELTA JOINT KIT
Tool: 614520 -- DELTA JOINT INSTALL ADAPTER AND SHIM

I have ball joint press and a hydraulic press, as well as a lathe to turn adapters if needed, but I value my time and have no experience servicing aftermarket control arms. So I'd like to start with the right parts and tools for the job. Please let me know if the above shopping list is correct, or if you have different recommendations.

Thanks!

 

I have realized it’s better off just emailing or calling them with issues

 

Well... I figured I'd just give the parts a try.

Here's the verdict: The above two parts are correct for UB tubular UCAs. The job went pretty smooth and I'm very pleased with the quality of the new Delta Joints. I also have to say, the bushings are a really great design! (My old ones were totally fine, but something is loose and noisy in my suspension and I can't for the life of me figure out what it is, so I'm just blindly replacing everything now.)

However, I would skip buying the tool ("DELTA JOINT INSTALL ADAPTER AND SHIM"), because:
1. It requires a bit of machine work to make it work with the tubular arms,
2. You don't need the tapered shim for tubular arms (only needed for the billet style arms), and
3. It costs like $70, and you could just buy the steel to make your own for like $10, for the same or less effort.

The problem is that the tool is a bit to wide to fit through the tubular joint bore, to press out the old uniballs. The tool is basically a ~4" long piece of 1-3/4", 3/16" steel tube, with a welded end cap. The material is a bit oversized, ~1.765", whereas the upper opening on my control arm was 1.733". So I turned the end of the tool down to 1.730" to make sure it didn't bind while pressing out the old uniball. (In fact it turned out my other arm was a little smaller, because the tool wound up thoroughly jammed in the bore and I had to press it back out to free it.)



The tool comes with a welded end cap, which might be useful for certain types of balljoint presses, but every balljoint press kit I've ever seen already comes with an adapter to hold hollow sleeve adapters. I used a hydraulic press, so I didn't need the end cap either. In fact, I had to spend extra time to turn and face the endcap, just so that I could get the other end to run true in the lathe, so I could turn it down to fit my tubular control arms.



There's no problem using the modified tool to press in the new DJs either.

So, I would say that a 4" piece of 1.75" x 3/16" steel tube stock is better for this job than this specialty tool, and would cost about $60 less. Face both ends, and turn the OD to 1.725" along maybe 1.25" length on one end. Then, put a ~1/16" bevel on the inner edge, to clear the spherical part of the uniball. That's all it takes to make your own tool!

I hope this doesn't read like a criticism of Icon or their tool. I just would recommend, for folks with tubular UCAs, to not get this rather expensive tool that is made for billet UCAs.



Here's a comparison of the old UB and the new DJ. The quality appears top-notch!

One final tip: If you have gusseted spindles, make sure you have either a ratcheting box-end wrench for the nylok nut (21mm or 13/16"), or a regular M14x2mm hex nut, to help with re-attaching the spindles. When you try tightening the provided nylok flange nut, the stud will start spinning long before the taper seats in the spindle. You can hold the stud still with a 10mm wrench, but then you can't get a regular socket ratchet on the nylok! Without a ratchet, and with gussets in the way of seeing what you're doing or advancing more than 30 degrees at a time, it get super tedious. Alternately, if you can find a regular hex nut that fits the spindle, you can thread it freely all the way up to seat the taper first, then remove it and install the nylok with a regular socket ratchet. Unfortunately I had neither, so now I have a sore back from crouching there fumbling with non-ratcheting wrenches for what felt like hours.

 

I have the Delta Joint as well, question about greasing it though. It has the standard "low profile grease fitting" that requires a needle adapter. Icon sells one for around $25, but is that one required to be used? I can find a less expensive one but it has a much longer needle and I don't want it to do any damage. Any help will be appreciated since I am the lease mechanically inclined individual ever but I really don't want to pay someone to do this.

Thanks.

 

Mine came with standard (zerks) grease fittings as well. So I removed the needle-style one and installed the zerks instead. They seem to clear the tires no problem. Although, I will probably have to remove the tires to grease them... no problem for me because I rotate the tires quite regularly.

So this is speculation, but I would imagine that any needle fitting would work for you, so long as it's the correct diameter. When you stab it in, it will hit the top of the ball, but unless you're hammering it on there, I don't see how you could do damage.

Good luck!

 

Every auto parts store has those grease needles for prob less than $5. Hell, I bet Walmart, tractor supply and even harbor freight sell em.

 

Yeah, I know that...but they're all long needles, I was just wondering if a longer needle would do any damage when I used it.

ICON -


Advance Auto Parts -


Again, I was just wondering if a longer needle would do any damage. @mk5 answered my question though.

 

Reviving this thread, curious is anyone has used these with JBA’s, or if it doesn’t matter and they will just work. Might need to pick up a set. JBA’s design here is kinda shit if I’m being honest.

 

Will not work with JBA. Will only work with uniball style UCA's like TC

 

Thank you for crushing my hopes and dreams.

 

Acdelco or moog work well and super easy to replace.

 

the double stacked spacer design they went with instead of just a longer boot bugs me.

 

Will these also work on the uniballs for Total Chaos lower control arms? I only see uppers mentioned.

 

RE Post #44 -

Stupid question...I know. So, one of my Delta Joints has the low profile fitting and the other has the Standard fitting. It's been well over 5,000 miles since I have greased anything on this suspension (yeah, I'm that guy that bought it without REALLY knowing what to do).

I wanted to replace both fittings with Standard fittings...but the M6 fittings that I bought are too small. Icon states that it's a 6mm fitting...and I just can't figure it out. I have a needle adapter for the low profile fitting, but I believe that the fittings are a bit blocked because I am an idiot.

Any helpful advice?

Thanks.

 

Remove fittings, match thread pitch to new fittings, enjoy.

 

Hello. Reviving tread here. Does anyone know the part number that fits first gen Tacoma icon uca? I have the 58400. The ones that came with uniball but they get toast pretty quick here in Chicago

 

what size is the uniball?

 

I'm guessing it's the 1 inch. I've seen several retro fit part numbers but not sure which one to choose

 

614526 for the fit kit, then you’ll need the 05+ Tacoma delta joints 614550

 

Thanks man much appreciated