Idaho BS thread in the PNW

930 boots?

 

dafuq does that mean

 

I just bought a boot kit from the dealership. Was only a few more dollars than the oreilly kits but it came with more and was better quality than the boots that came on the axles from the factory.

 

Big O's told me no once they saw it. Haha

I got it figured out though but it might be sketchy... I'm going to try it for now and see what happens though.

 

i havent doen boots on my truck ever the factory ones never broke and now i kill axles before the boots can break.

 

I bought a replacement boot kit 10 months ago I hear its a bitch to split the ujoints so you can get the boot on. Havent gotten the motivation to do it yet

 

^^this

Its the boots that LT guys swap out for so the fins don't rub.

 

One of Cameron's pics from yesterday. This is what I meant by playing on the rocks. It was the right front tire that tore, but it tore on the outside which leads me to believe that is was a stick. The way the rock climbing when if I had damaged it doing this I'm pretty sure it would have been on the inside sidewall.

 

I know im askin to do a lot while I'm at your shop, but if there is time can we maybe swap my inner boots? They are tearing and one is slinging grease at the clamp an I don't want to drive and wheel a week in Moab with it. I know you have done about 100 cv swaps so u are te guy to do it with.


So the plan is to drive there Friday night and get to work Saturday if that's ok with you

Dunno, it's whatever popped up on rock auto when I searched fr 1996 tacoma cv boot

 

Man, I wish I could be around. I could swap your boots out real quick while you guys work on the axle swap.

 

So see how there are two gashes there that make kind of a Y? The little one on the left has the hole, but the one on the right is to the cords... so it is basically just waiting to blow...


Oh and negative arch anyone? You can't see it in the pic, but the front hanger is actually lower than the bottom of the axle... haha Cameron was curious so we flexed out and measured stuff and droop. I was about 30.5" drooped and ~17" stuffed and Cameron was at... I can't remember now... It was only an inch or two less droop than me and I think an inch less stuff as well so like 28.75 or 29.75" droop and ~18" stuff. He can probably correct me on those. When I was swapping out the rear tire (put the bad, patched tire on the rear) I measured the top of the bump to the strike plate and measured 5.5" so my bucking issue is just having really tall bumps on tall leaf packs... I'm cycling about 13" in the rear and defined engineerings SUA kit only cycles about 13-14" for most of the people that installed it. If the bumps were so hard to swap I would swap Cameron and go see how mine rides. I think he is just running the factory ones.

 

if you swap bumper then you could over compress the shocks..so make sure you check that first.

 

I'm not worried about over-compressing the shocks. They are factory length shocks and my taller leaf pack with factory bumps should be taller than factory leafs with factory bumps. I would be putting the leaf pack into even more negative arch though...

 

So... $1761 for some 37x12.50R17 MTR's... That includes shipping and the 3 year replacement certs from Discount Tires. haha Then like $900 for some glassworks fenders and bedsides... haha

 

your going 37s on stock suspension and IFS??

and what happened to skinnies?

 

37/12.50's are skinnies! haha Look at Silas's rig! They look like Pizza cutters


If I do 37's I wouldn't be jumping anymore I imagine, until long travel (which would be put off until much later, I'm sure). I would run glassworks fenders and bedsides so I don't have to hack the shit out of my factory ones and then I would just go pick up a few O'reilly CV's and hope for the best. Silas seems to be doing well with his setup.

Option A is to drop $260+ on one new KM2 and use the bad one as a spare.

Option B is to get 37's and glass and try to sell the KM2's.

Option C is to see how much my parents want for their 245/65R17 tires with wheels and run those on street and save my KM2's for offroad.

 

Dud you will will still have to hack up the glass fenders. I still did for just 33s..haha they are still 12.5s..and they rub WAY worse then your 9'' tires will..just a forewarning..

but looks like option C to me would make the most sense..or A

 

It's all part of the game, so it won't be too big of a deal. I'll have to take a BFH to the wheel wells and such too I'm sure. Might even have to rebuild the wheel wells who knows, but I will have a lot more ground clearance!

Option C would be interesting though. haha Wonder what that would do to my fuel economy. Just having that one 265/70 up front made the steering wheel feel so light when turning! I'd be at 3000 rpm at 75 mph though

 

well. YOu just need to really quite driving the damn thing and drive your real DD...haha thats the REAL solution

 

Yeah, but I can't even get to the trails at this rate. haha It's pretty much all interstate to the close ones, plus if I try to go with you guys in August there will be some miles.

I need a better DD... I have a hard time driving it in summer because it doesn't have AC... Also my daily commute is a walk. haha Might not even have one this summer.