Idaho BS thread in the PNW

You sire are wrong. water will actually cool better than just strait coolant. it's conducts heat better. Where this theory of it not doing so well comes from is when you have pure water it boils at it's normal rate and freezes. That's why they have a mix of coolant to help stop that from happening while maintaining some of those better cooling abilities of water.

That waterless coolant does work very well but it's not a normal eth-glycol coolant.

 

there are so many other things at play besides just coolant. like timing and air fuel ratio (that's a big one). I would make sure those two things are perfect before you chase the cooling system anymore. I mean a weak water pump could cause that but it's a rarity.

 

That was my other thought, is that maybe the bike is working too hard at those higher speeds? But then I would think I would have different issues than just overheating.

The cooling system is also the easiest to fix. I can pull the thermostat off the bike in about 20 minutes after I remove the extra crap around it.
Dealing with timing and ripping Into the carbs is a lot more complicated haha

Like he said, is it a problem to just take the valve out or whatever and have the coolant run through the whole system all the time? I don't know exactly how the cooling System works, but does it circulate in the engine then when it gets hot enough it opens and then runs through the rad? What not just have it flow through the whole system all the time?

 

I am no lord and carry no official title. I will agree to disagree. Water does absorb heat faster, but at temps of 250F, even under pressure it's boiling. It doesn't cool for shit when it's boiling. Also coolant transfers heat better, which is the whole point of a radiator. I digress.

 

tis true water will boil at 250F but at lower temps water transfers heat better. If I was wrong why coolant and auto manufactures run anything but strait coolant and smaller radiators?? they are in the game to save weight and cram things into smaller spaces. Im not saying youre all wrong just wrong with eth-glycol which is the main coolant used in older motors. new stuff it's a toss they have so many new "organic" formulas.

 

Everything I have ever heard or read on coolant says water will cool more effectively than having the additives. Plain water will cause rust to happen though. The additives are to help in rust prevention, and give the mixture a greater range of temperature as liquid, rather than allow boiling or freezing.

I don't have anything to offer than hasn't already been said on lack of cooling for the bike though.

 

If you re-read the original statement, username said 'properly mixed coolant' he did not say 'straight coolant'. Big difference IMO.

Properly mixed coolant, typically a 50/50 mix with water, lubricates the waterpump, lowers the freezing point, raises the boiling point and effieciantly transfers heat. A water/coolant mix is superior to straight water.

 

^^^ Agreed....

 

that is basicially the opposite of what I have been hearing. Water is a more effective than coolant. A 100% water "mix" will cool better than a 50/50 as EG reduces the boiling point. The difference is the straight water will freeze, which is of course a problem in the winter so you need a mixture of "coolant" to prevent that.

I love how something as simple as coolant is still up in the air

 

Coolant doesn't prevent water from freezing. It prevents it from boiling. Antifreeze prevents it from freezing. Ethylene glycol is usually the antifreeze component. Not sure what the coolant component is off the top of my head.

But as you guys are, most people use the terms coolant and antifreeze interchangeably since both are mixed together in normal use.

I was browsing around for antifreeze without coolant in it for my ORI's since they called for ethylene glycol a while back. Ended up just running fork oil.

 

I reread his comment and the argument still stands. Water transfers heat better than coolant/anti-freeze mixture does. even properly mixed "coolant" does not transfer heat as well as just strait water. I looked at towing temps on my cummins and then changed the mixture to 40% "coolant" and 60% water. Same day same outside temp same load same road yet I ran 10 degrees cooler. that's just one personal example I have. all the boys down at the race track will tell you the same thing. hell just read the back of the bottle of any additive designed to help drop coolant temps.

Edit: I do agree that a properly mixed coolant lubricates the WP better than just strait water and does effect the boiling/feezeing point greatly

 

ben just settled it. right there put the rad in the arb fridge and bam over heating issues solved. LOL

 

I went to like 95%water and additive and it still overheats. I need to put the whole engine in the arb fridge lol

 

Seriously look at your fuel air mixtures and your timing. if those two things get out of wack they will cause hell on your cooking system that and running lean is really hard on vavles

 

I'm not sure exactly how to do both of those things.
I couldn't find any timing marks on the crank bolt, and I'm assuming the air fuel mixture is going to require taking the carbs at less somewhat apart

 

there may not be any. might just be a flywheel with pick up coil, in which case just make sure the key way is in good shape. as far as the carbs go I use a 5 gas analyzer and I know you don't have one of those so might be a good idea to do some research on the jetting of them and whats right for your elevation.

 

Reroute the AC lines so the cold side hits the block, then goes to a custom sealed radiator, then back to the compressor, and have a temperature controlled switch for the compressor start/stop.

 

You can quick check your jetting by pulling a spark plug and looking at the color. Cardboard brown=perfect

White and nuked looking=lean

Black and smelly= rich

Timing is probably fixed if it has a CDI box (electronic ignition). If it has points it is adjustable.

I had a CR250 that overheated like a mother and I couldn't figure out why. Turns out when I washed it at the carwash I sprayed the mud off the radiators and
it bent the fins. It just wasn't getting air flow. Have a look at the fins, you should be able to see right through them if you look at the right angle.

 

Been raining for 2+ hours here. Stupid

 

Why? Are you concerned it may turn green?