Ideal Tire Load Range

Yeah the notion the c-load tires is for commuter trucks is just not true.

They exceed both the payload capacity and the tow hall capacity. Just FYI OP.

Also, if you get stuck and really need to drop the tire pressure to tank track your way out, you'll hit a point of diminishing returns with E-load because the sidewall is so stiff. So unless you're kitted out with armor and at the pay load max, you won't have as much contact.

 

This.

I’m running E-rated 295/75R16 BFG KO2’s, no armor, no weight in the bed other than my full-size spare. Tire pressure plays a big factor. When I get work done at a shop, they tend to set it to 35 psi. It’s pretty harsh and you can see the contact patch on the tires where it actually rolls. Very noticeable bump steer too. I air it down just to 32 psi and it’s an obvious difference. Tires contact the road evenly, less bump steer, softer on bumps. Yes it’ll be slightly sluggish but I’m also re-geared to 4.56

 

Less acceleration, more rotating mass, worse mph, worse ride....

 

You’re quoting where he clarifies “...if you do any driving off road or on rough gravel forest service roads.”

 

100%

 

You’re not wrong though. I wish they made a C load for my size in the KO2’s, I’d be all over it. E load works but you gotta make it work to be comfortable as a daily, like mine lol

 

This. In addition to the performance and handling impact of the additional unsprung weight it is also more wear on the suspension and drivetrain. That's a non-issue for some but it played a pretty big role in my choice to stick with a lighter wheel/tire combo.

 

Basically if someone needs to ask about E load tires, they don't need E load tires. 95% of folks don't need E load tires. It's a bro factor. In cases such as the game warden, he knew he was shredding tires in the terrain he traveled regularly in. That's a good reason to move up to E load.


Not shredding any tires and saying "well they're tougher!" is a bad one.

I'll never tell anyone how to spend their money. But I'll call it as it is, and as I've personally done.


Tire selection can be tricky. Helps a lot if you can get into a 17" rim over 16". Duratracs, Terragraplers, wild peaks, all great tires in a tire a stock truck can use with a c load rating.

 

Yup. Suspension and traction alone. Valving is based off velocity. If the tire doesn't flex its instant high velocity on even the smallest feature, ultimately taking away from handling.


I'll be going to 34s here shortly and I'll still be sticking with C load.

 

Just to add - I average about 2-3K miles each year on forest/logging roads of varying quality (from 50 mph smooth gravel to 5 mph kidney bruising secondary roads to shale nightmares) up in northern Maine (May & June for fishing and Oct-Nov for hunting).

 

I mean if the C-load is good enough for the Golden Road.....



Fwiw, I think Greenville road might be a bit worse off. I've hit that thing doing 65and anything under that my suspension was just hammering. Above It, pond skimming pure butter. I love that hill coming from Moosehead to GR.

 

Love that area....been going up there since 1984 when I was a wee young lad. Was just up around the Musquacook Lake chain (quite a bit further north) not too long ago. I'm never concerned that I'm running C's.

 

These Taco's get quite squirrelly pond skimming....lift dirt drifting.

 

Hammer hangers.... I'll tell you bud.





Also edit, I was off with the nittos. Those come in xl, near c load. And the wild peaks don't come in c load anymore. But the cooper's do In both 16/17. Illl get a list for OP

 

Never considered them.

 

What 34” tires you going with that’s C load?

 

I have yet to get mine mounted lol

 

I'm on stock rims, no spacers w/ 265/70r17's- no rubbing whatsoever, anytime

 

@utacomah


Goodyear duratracs
Cooper At3 LT
BfG ko2


Some good c-load right off the bat if you're looking for a 16' or 17" rim

 

And Toyo Open Country AT2 - 16"