Idle reving

Sorry if this has been adressed many times but im getting my 2002 ready to be my daily driver again. It sat for 3yrs untouched so its in need of love. I got fluid changed out last week and shes running and took her up and down the road. I noticed the idle is way high. Sits around 1500 and when im shifting and coasting between gears it revs from 1500 to 2200ish. Any cluse on why this may be happening?

Runs fine not a rough idke just stuck a little high and doing the revving. I changed all the plugs and did notice i need i new coil pack bc its cracked the whole length. Not sure if thats a contributor.
Thanks for any help.

 

It idles high after it has come up to operating temperature @195 degrees or so??

Might be a air leak between the MAF and throttle body .

A vacuum leak anyplace .

Throttle body just hanging up from sitting or the cable

 

Yes after 10min of idleing after startup (and burning thru some seafoam in the tank) it stayed at 1500. Thru the 10min it slowly climbed to there. Figured it was just burning stuff off then when i drove it around awhile and csme back home notices the reving and idle hanging around still at 1500.

I also put new pcv valve in and cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor pretty good during my tune up

 

I had a high idle every time I disconnected the battery.

Not to long ago I was having a similar problem.
First when I would come off the hiway It would hang or hold at 2100-2200 rom then drop back down.
Then it started bouncing. between 1000 and 1800 rpm.
I took it the a toyota mechanic and then it started holding at 1800 rpm for 5 days.
Now that my appointment is open for a return inspection.... its idling smooth at 850.
No Idea, but its running great now.

 

970btu.... your saying it fixed itself essentially?

 

Idle control valve all day. Mine did the same when I first got it I knew it wasn't normal and the seller said it was. I looked online, changed it and voila. It sits at less than 700 rpms

 

Bingo. It's definitely the IAC. This allows the truck to warm up a little quicker to heat up the cats on initial start up. When it functions correctly, the RPM is supposed to drop back down after 20sec or so. Try cleaning it out first and see if that does anything. Otherwise, just replace it and you should be good.

 

I second this. I cleaned mine out and replaced the gasket rather than buy a whole new part. I was dong the valve cover gaskets and figured I do this as well while I had everything apart.

My idle came down to a nice 600-700rpm after everything warmed up.

 

+1. I just cleaned mine and put in a new gasket with the engine rework. Idles perfectly.

For the OP, the IAC is part of the yellow-greenish part with the plug in this picture.

NOTE: the Phillips looking screws that hold the IAC to the throttle body are not Phillips but a type known as Japenese Industrial Standard (JIS). Be careful not to strip the heads if not using a JIS driver.



Here's a video that explains the difference between a Phillips and JIS screw and driver.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEwVUZr5xxQ

 

Well I would check the small little set screw on your throttle, I had @what road truck in my garage, swapped the iac and still idled high, figured out the small set screw managed to wiggle itself tighter and was holding the throttle slightly open

 

Yea, I'll post a picture of it later for you if you can't find it

 

When you clean or examine the throttle body butterfly there should be little to NO air gaps around the walls and the butterfly. Just enough of a gap for the butterfly to move is all on the top section and tight on the bottom section.
If there are any large gaps this will also create a high idle.
This is a common problem as the wall of the throttle body where the butterfly meet
gets a low spot.

Run your finger across this spot with the butterfly open to see if you feel a low section.