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Illuminated Ignition Ring Mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by JdevTac, Feb 9, 2015.

  1. Mar 24, 2017 at 4:08 PM
    #321
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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  2. Mar 24, 2017 at 5:10 PM
    #322
    adio

    adio Well-Known Member

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    HI
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    Greenbean[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Mar 25, 2017 at 2:33 PM
    #323
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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    Scored a used Camry ignition switch assembly on eBay today for 31 shipped....

    And it has the wiring harness still plugged in and about 4-5" of wire left there. Should make wiring it up easier.
     
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    BadDNA and Toy4me like this.
  4. Mar 28, 2017 at 2:24 AM
    #324
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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    Well it seems some of us aren't able to do this mod without some serious work, my 2015 Access Cab 4-cyl has no transponder key or receiver type switch. The seller was really cool and refunded me the cost and never shipped the Camry ignition switch.

    Here is what my switch looks like, :(

    IMG_0997.jpg
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  5. Mar 28, 2017 at 1:22 PM
    #325
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Sorry man, that's what I was talking with t@co_prerunner about on the previous page, that the keyless entry guys Or ones without the transponder would have to essentially remove the ignition and install a new one to fit the ring
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  6. Mar 28, 2017 at 2:09 PM
    #326
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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    Yeah,

    I'm not looking to tear into it that much...

    Great mod either way though....
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  7. Mar 29, 2017 at 8:35 AM
    #327
    RacecarGuy

    RacecarGuy Well-Known Member

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    Pelfreybilt front and rear HC bumper w/swingout, BAMF LCA Skids, BAMF Diff skid, Pelfreybilt IFS and Trans skid, RCI gas tank skid, Bronze SCS F-5's, Icon RR's ext travel, Dakar leafs, Archive Garage shackle flip
    I wonder if you cut one of the other transponder amplifier wires and splice in a switch, if it wouldn't work like a kill switch. Basically turn off the transponder, so the truck wouldn't start?
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  8. Mar 29, 2017 at 10:50 AM
    #328
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    I thought about that. Not that id personally do it but it would be no different than just unplugging the amplifier. But honestly would there even be a point? If someone wants to steal a chip keyed truck, they'd just flatbed it and haul it away I'd assume?

    I'm not knowledgeable on theft methods so I don't know how easy or difficult it is to acquire or modify a key to jive with the truck's ECU.
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  9. Mar 29, 2017 at 12:20 PM
    #329
    RacecarGuy

    RacecarGuy Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I was just think of minor thefts, like we had a few break ins at the gym I belonged to. They would force open a locker and steal keys. Also thinking it could prevent someone from car jacking your keys while walking in a parking lot. Figured I could make a simple switch hidden somewhere, so even if they had the key, it wouldn't start.
     
    ChadsPride likes this.
  10. Dec 2, 2017 at 10:09 AM
    #330
    wedgemoose

    wedgemoose Well-Known Member

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    Now you have one failure on here men. I don't know why but this was the hardest project i have ever done. Hours and hours and now i'm back to the original


    my plug cap snapped in half trying to get it apart one last time. so i had to pull the 2 wires and close it up one last time before i had no vehicle to use


    i don't know why i had so much problems but i did. didn't know which was pin 2 or 6 for polarity. But hooked it up both ways so that shouldn't matter. i bought the right terminal with wire on them from Toyota. Ran everything perfect and have solid juice in one and the other tapped into blue wire in A pilar. Don;t know but i do know i failed miserably. I would offer mine to one of you guys to have but i left it in there for the heck of it.

    this sucks. it had to be my two wires were not in correctly. had to be. Since i bought the ones on the first page from Toyota i didn't have to cut any ears off right? Maybe that was it
     
  11. Dec 2, 2017 at 10:19 AM
    #331
    Up2NoGood

    Up2NoGood Well-Known Member

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    That doesn’t sound like fun. If you want to take another crack at it I can try and help... would just need a few pictures of your connections. Did you test the light on the ring first? It’s possible you just got a faulty part and the LED isn’t working.
     
  12. Dec 2, 2017 at 10:51 AM
    #332
    Hit n Run

    Hit n Run Well-Known Member

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    In this picture the red wire goes to 12V hot and the brown wire goes to negative lead for dome light circuit:

    IMG_0595.jpg

    I used an add a fuse to get 12V hot from the PWR Outlet fuse (red wire in picture above):

    panel.jpg

    The brown wire in first picture was tapped into this blue wire to the left of the fuse panel:

    dome circuit.jpg

    The lower dash did have to be removed to access this dome light wire:

    IMG_0673.jpg

    Hopefully the pictures help.
     
    MOBB1N likes this.
  13. Dec 3, 2017 at 12:12 PM
    #333
    wedgemoose

    wedgemoose Well-Known Member

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    it wasn't fun up2. And I did your much more involved heated mirror install like it was nothing. I have the wires run perfect and it looks like stock. Not one problem with that or any other ones i did. I even have my "lighted" fog light switch wired correctly and to do that i had to grab power from the fuse box under the hood(take it apart and grab hot from under the box). I think i'm the only only one that did it this correct way. the other way made it work close to perfect but not perfect. Meaning i usually do pretty good with these things and kind of know what I'm doing.

    One question for you though. so i bought the Toyota terminals and they came pre-crimped with wire attached already. so buying these expensive wires instead of making myself means i didn't have to cut that little shark fin off the terminal right? I pushed it in the plug all the way. It looked right. But i did have to force the cap back down after putting the two new wires in. And thats why i had to break it to get it apart again. So either i was supposed to modify the stock Toyota terminal. or something else was wrong

    Ony problem now is i can't try again. the plug is destroyed and barley together now. I would need to buy that harness and cut the plug and splice in the truck. Not a ton of room in there or wore to do this. I'm screwed!!!


    here is a pic of the extra expensive wire i bought. was something supposed to be cut of the terminal???

    IMG_20171203_150915.jpg
     
  14. Dec 3, 2017 at 12:17 PM
    #334
    wedgemoose

    wedgemoose Well-Known Member

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    Not going to Lie HitnRun but i thought the hot was the second from the left. But i tried it both ways eventually. And thanks for the detailed pics and write up. You did NOT have to do that for me. So i thanks you a million times over for this.


    But that's how i have it unfortunately. I must of been the two wires. They didn't go in good and i knew it. No click or anything like usual. I could just tell they weren't right. but it's so small and hard to see. They looked like they were all the way down. I don't know but this killed me. All that money for a failure that i can't try again. And never mind the money i wanted this function bad. thanks again. I'm an idiot !!!

    Only thing i did different was i grabbed the blue wire from the A-pilar. But i ground it out to metal to see if i could get it to light on it's own and nothing. Thats should of worked right? The positive to hot. And the other to a regular ground should of kept the light on non stop right??(to test it)
     
  15. Dec 3, 2017 at 12:20 PM
    #335
    wedgemoose

    wedgemoose Well-Known Member

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    Hey but one thing!!!! Where did you get that plug like that??? with all the open wires? can i buy one and splice it in? maybe there is room when you disconnect some things in there. Why do you have a separate plug like that(i guess i should ask). Maybe there is hope after all.
     
  16. Dec 3, 2017 at 12:23 PM
    #336
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    If you mangled your connector you can always get a replacement for like $3-4

    Part number
    9098012092

    Just be careful getting pins out the old one if you go that route
     
  17. Dec 3, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #337
    wedgemoose

    wedgemoose Well-Known Member

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    Really!!!! didn't even think of that. what an idiot. Do you know how they come out? it is just pulling on the wires? or do you have to un-click something(some sort of lock).

    i might be back at this. thanks all of you!!! I really mean it. I totally forgot i can get just a plug and start over from scratch.
     
  18. Dec 3, 2017 at 12:48 PM
    #338
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    I can’t 100% remember how the old pins come out. I believe the small ones (pins 2-6) just come right out once you remove the retainer clip on the plastic plug (the one that flips up).

    The outer pins (1 and 7) are the larger pins and held in by a clip on the pin itself. You’ll likely need a very small pin removal tool or something homemade, maybe a tiny tiny jewelry screwdriver to remove them. I think last time I did it I just sacrificed the plug and cut the plug up to remove those big guys.

    When you say your other plug fell apart what exactly do you mean? Like it literally broke in half or you just broke the retainer piece off?
     
  19. Dec 3, 2017 at 1:00 PM
    #339
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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  20. Dec 3, 2017 at 1:10 PM
    #340
    Hit n Run

    Hit n Run Well-Known Member

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    I have the extra plug as I did the same as Muddinfun.

    Maybe you need to test the illuminated ring to make sure it works??

    IMG_0848.jpg
     
    Muddinfun likes this.

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