Illuminated Ignition Ring Mod

Just broke the retainer piece. Prying it up it snapped in half. not it's a two piece flap. So i closed the flap and called it a day.

 

Looks like this is the way to go. Thanks both of you. I did test the light on the car and it's didn't work. right there should of told me to stop and not go further. But then i started telling myself it need to be hooked to the blue wire to work. I wasn't thinking clearly


i'll get one of these from E-bay. Test it when i get the plug. And go at this again. Thanks all of you for all this help. Can't let this mod beat me.

 

One more thing Muddin then I'll leave you alone. is this link you gave me the actual one I want? this will have the new plug? and i just have to take the wires out of it, right? And i still have to add wires to 2 and 6?

just making sure so i have everything here for the next time

 

You're correct. PArt number is technically 89783-06021 and the ebay one is 06020. But toyota catalog says it is superceded by 06021 so should be good to go. And the plug is the same, just remove the wires from both your plugs and transfer new plug to your truck.

And you can have an extra ring to sell to recoup funds.

 

@wedgemoose looks like you have plenty of great suggestions and I'm sure you'll get this working. If you don't have a 12v power supply to test the LED in the ignition ring then a standard 9v battery should be enough to get it to light up.

Is your dome light working properly? It could be as simple as just a blown fuse.

 

Yes the fuse is good dome light works

The way i tested it should work right??? with the two wires in the plug and plugged into the Ring, i put one wire to positive juice and one to negative (ground that i have all my grounds to). Meaning i don't have to have the negative going to the dome light wire to work right? my way the light would be on all the time?


And it didn't work so i think it was the terminals not all way down in plug. But i'll test with battery this time first(Once all parts get here)




And that fin on the terminal? i don't have to cut mine right?

 

Here is the best picture I have of the factory connectors:

 

You do NOT have to modify the OEM factory pin in any form. The non-factory ones I modified in my original post just have the extra fin that is removed. OEM do not.

Where did you run the 12v+ to???

And also just to confirm, you ran the wire you put in slot #2 (next to the OEM gray wire) to 12v+, and the wire in slot #6 (right next to OEM blue wire) to ground?

 

I ran the Positive to fuse block(add a fuse) power door locks. Have a test light and all tested good.

i did have the wire in 2 and 6. Might of hooked them up backwards one time to test but switched them around before crimping and mounting

My testing was positive juice to wire 2. and then wire 6 i grounded to a bolt. the ring should of lite and stayed lite when i did that. Nothing. I even hooked to blue wire to make sure and still nothing


I'm almost positive i didn't have the wires in the plug correctly. and thats why it broke. I had to use pliers to close the flap on the plug. That why it broke taking it apart the last time


but have everything again and ready for round 2. this time i will get it!!!!!!!!!!! i know it. Especialy with all the help from you guys. thanks

 

Hummm, i don't see that little fin on yours??? I ordered 82998-24290. Maybe that the problem? maybe i got the wrong wires. Unless i can't see at the angle you have it


here is mine

 

here is the terminal/wire i ordered. Maybe i read it wrong and this isn't correct for my year?

 

Should be correct. I think some of the issue is the factory crimps the pin to some either 18 gauge or 20 gauge and ideally to get it to seat easier it would be like 22 gauge.

What I had to do was insert the pin enough to where I could see it inside the plug with the retainer flap open. Then I used a very small flat head jewelry screwdriver and pushed it forward into place. Only then could I get the retainer clip to close and everything seated properly. And that was using the nonOEM pin crimped to some 20 gauge.

 

Thanks. I could kind of tell the terminal wasn't all the way in or not in right. I've added a bunch of terminals to plugs for different mods over the years and you can just tell when they are in correctly. or at least i hope this is what happened. Usually you hear or feel a click



But you guys have given me enough. Now it's up to me to not be a dope and do it right!!!! Again only thing I did different was connect to the dome light in the A-pilar. but it didn't test right when I did positive and negative direct wiring. The plug is so small and i'm getting older now and my eye sight isn't what it used to be. but i'll get it this time!!!!! thanks everyone again. next e-mail is hopefully one that say "did it" !!

 

Sub'd to do this mod. So rather then reading through all 18 pages was a definitive process agreed upon as the best way to do this?

 

I was thinking this as well. I def need to get around to this

 

Yes the instructions by Up2NoGood are the quickest and easiest to go by. bottom of the very first post. it's a download

that first post is all you basically need to read. The problems I had were caused by my ignorance

 

Basically
#1 acquire amplifier (Part#89783-06021)
- see post #234 for Toyota models with same part# that you can score from a parts place. I used TLS autorecycling. You will likely need to buy the entire ignition cylinder assembly just to get the ignition amplifier ring. OEM brand new costs ~$108 or so. TLS auto part usually only $50, so big savings. You can try and resell ignition cylinder to recoup funds too.
- Post 234 = https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/illuminated-ignition-ring-mod.362500/page-12#post-13489341
- Post 212 outlines what to search on TLS auto recycling's webpage. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/illuminated-ignition-ring-mod.362500/page-11#post-13437923

#2, you can follow my convoluted DIY instructions on page 1, or there is a PDF at the bottom of my OP that @Up2NoGood put together. Only difference between mine and his method is where we tapped the dome light wire. I tapped the blue dome wire in the a-pillar, he taps it at the harness plug down near the floorboard. Dome wire functions as your variable 12v+ and then the ground wire just goes to ground, done. Ring will turn on when door opens/door unlocked with fob.

#3, enjoy your mod.

Cost varies, just depending on if you go with OEM terminals to add your positive/ground wires. OEM route is more expensive. The other option is in my OP where you can just buy the pins themselves and crimp them. OEM pins are not cheap for what you are buying, but cheaper than buying a crimping tool and actual pins somewhere else.

 

Thank you! Next project on my list for sure!!

 

And your instructions were perfect Josh!!!!!!!!!! I hope you weren't insulted when i said use Up2NoGoods. They asked for the "quickest and easiest" so I figured that was his. But I used yours actually. And tapped into the A-pillar like you did. If it did sound like I was saying your instructions weren't as good I apologize. Your whole thread is awesome

 

No I didn't think that at all, I just know I type everything out and it can sometimes be too much detail to easily follow which is why I attached Up2NoGoods diy to my original post lol.

Glad everything worked out for you!