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Illuminated Ignition Ring Mod

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by JdevTac, Feb 9, 2015.

  1. Oct 15, 2015 at 5:56 PM
    #61
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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    Why do you want it on with the exterior lights. Isn't factory on a 4 runner only going to have it lit while the dome is on?

    I'm wiling to try it just wired to the dome power. Even if I choose not to have the dome light on with an open door the ignition ring will still be on as the dome switch controls wether or not its lit.

    Loving the idea and headway being made here!
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2017
  2. Oct 15, 2015 at 9:16 PM
    #62
    Revelations

    Revelations Well-Known Member

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    Never mind. I didn't realize the dome light is ground activated.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2015
  3. Oct 17, 2015 at 7:08 PM
    #63
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Thank you both for the input and clarifying what I have is how it should be. @caribe makaira - is the door lock fuse one in the interior fuse panel? I'll double-check tomorrow because I hadn't figured out just yet which constant 12v I wanted to tie into. I also should receive my APS fuse type add-a-circuit in the mail tomorrow if I want to go the add a circuit route. I know the older 2nd gens seem to use the mini fuses, but the recent 2nd gens use the low profile recessed so I had to order an add-a-circuit off Amazon.

    Yes, factory setup is having the ring only lit when door is open, and fade off with dome when door is shut. The only reason I want it lit when the dash is lit, is because I love interior lighting. However, if you want it only on when the door opens/unlocks, simply run the negative terminal end to the dome trigger (negative) and the positive fused source and your done, no relays or any other sorts of shenanigans required.


    So an update, I have everything together, wiring, fuses, etc, I just need to go pickup a lighter tomorrow for heatshrink and then I'll knock this thing out. I plan on just pulling the 12v+ for pin 86 from the shift indicator light...it's easy to access and I might just house the relay in that same area.
     
  4. Oct 18, 2015 at 3:58 PM
    #64
    Greenbean

    Greenbean B.S. Goodwrench

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    I am getting ready to get me a 4runner part!! :dancingbacon:


    This is getting good gents.
     
  5. Oct 18, 2015 at 5:24 PM
    #65
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    So I goofed on the original wiring diagram I did. It's pins 2 and 6 for + and -, NOT 3 and 6. I troubleshot that tonight, didn't have time to do much else. Going to get back at it tomorrow once I get home.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2015
  6. Oct 18, 2015 at 7:48 PM
    #66
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Eh might have gotten my +/- switched. I retested out a 4th generation 4Runner ring and that's what I got. I had buttoned up my truck and put the 5th gen 4Runner ring back on the ignition since I need to drive my truck tomorrow so I didn't test it out. I'm going to reverify everything tomorrow.

    And yes it's 2 and 6, not 7. Goofed on writing that too. It's been a long day...lol
     
  7. Oct 19, 2015 at 5:04 PM
    #67
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    So I decided just to order the OEM part for wire terminals (the ) part posted above by caribe makaira. They are standard Toyota terminals, same ones like used in the lit 4Runner 4x4 knob mod. They come precrimped onto a section of wire. Anyways, I crimped some standard molex ones I bought, and on top of being too big, they didn't come out as nice and clean as I wanted them too. So those two OEM items have been ordered, and once I receive them I'll continue.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2015
  8. Oct 23, 2015 at 6:04 PM
    #68
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Update: received terminals in the mail, turns out the part number ending in 12750 is NOT the correct repair terminal. Those are the larger ones for pins 1 and 7. Pins 2-6 use the smaller terminals, which I have no clue what part number they are, possibly the part number 82998-12760. But I'm not 100% on that. Regardless, I MADE the larger terminals fit so to speak with some finangling. I didn't blow $25 on stupid ass terminals+wire for no reason and was not going to wait another week to take a gamble on another part number.

    So I have the pins installed in slots 2 and 6 in a brand new 7 slot wire plug I also bought since I sort of mangled the pin locking piece on the other one a few days ago trying to install the OTHER wrong pins I had. So I will need to remove the pins from the current harness, and reinstall with the replacement I have. So that will be "fun". Then I'll finally have this headache completed and everyone can hopefully benefit from my suffering lol.
     
  9. Oct 23, 2015 at 9:53 PM
    #69
    aenokea

    aenokea Member

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    Im interested in this mod and I hope you get it all worked out. Did you by chance figure out if there's a white led version of the amplifier? My tacoma is a '14 and the amber led wouldnt match very well.
     
  10. Oct 24, 2015 at 4:29 PM
    #70
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    So here is the deal, I have a connector pinned for 2 and 6 with the idea of removing the old connector and pulling its pins out and adding them to the new connector, however, I have tried to no avail following online tutorials on how to pull those little bastard pins out.

    So next plan of action would be to go back and just get the correct pins for slots 2 and 6, but if one searches for the connector part number, you will find that parts dealers say pins 1 and 7 are replacable
    (the 82998-12750 part number I bought) while 2-6 are not, so what the fuck to do next, idk. Maybe generic pins at this point, but that might require slight modifications to the stock connector to get them to fit and still be able to have the locking clip close.

    This has been more of a waste of time than anything else.

    Top that all off the 5th gen 4Runner ring has an amber LED, unlike its 4th gen counterpart so you'd have to swap out the soldered LED if you want to change the color.

    EDIT: So I understand the harness is made by Tyco, so I went looking at their pin offerings and purchased a few pins to try out. So we shall see how this works out.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2015
  11. Oct 26, 2015 at 6:51 PM
    #71
    Zac of all trades

    Zac of all trades FWP Fabrication Vendor

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    Any idea as to which of these is the fuse for the interior lights? I was swapping all the interior lights with LEDs and i believe i blew a fuse. Only because during the install all the lights turned off as i was pushing a LED into the vanity mirror light socket...

    Thanks
     
  12. Oct 26, 2015 at 6:59 PM
    #72
    Mack83

    Mack83 Well-Known Member

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    subbed. Interested to see how this turns out. Good luck guys.
     
  13. Oct 28, 2015 at 1:49 PM
    #73
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Finally got this son of a bitch lit up! Found terminals that worked and everything, got it all wired up and all is go EXCEPT, for some reason I can't get the LED to come on when I switch to the dash lights and not sure what is up with that, though I did notice that when I switched the dash lights on the relay is making a buzzing noise. Right now I just left the 86 terminal (power from dash light) disconnected. So I have LED illumination currently when dome is on with door or unlock but not dash.

    Will get pics up in a sec.
     
  14. Oct 28, 2015 at 1:56 PM
    #74
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Will get more pics up in a sec. Got to offload them from my phone

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2015
    Mack83 and Unchained 5150 like this.
  15. Oct 28, 2015 at 2:17 PM
    #75
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    Some pics to tide anyone over while I get things typed up into a better writeup, and troubelshoot the issue with illumination while dash lights are on.

    Terminals I bought from Mouser electronics (bought like 50 of them to have plenty to use as practice since I have never crimped before)
    Part No: 1123343-1
    Note that these pins have a little extra piece on their top end, however you can "pop" it off with some pliers and the pins then fit really nicely.
    Also generic crimper I bought off Amazon a while ago: http://www.amazon.com/HT-225D-Cycle...TF8&qid=1446066755&sr=1-1&keywords=crimp+tool


    And my crimped wires (I was happy with them after some trial and error)



    Here is the amplifier harness with terminals exposed (first pic). I got pissed that the original terminals I bought were money down the toilet so the original retainer clip got "accidentally" snapped off, HOWEVER I had a spare plug I bought and used the retainer clip from that one on this one (seen in second pic).




    And out of the kindness of my heart I have approximately 30-40 terminals leftover that I'd be willing to send to anyone interested in doing this mod for cost of a stamp +$1. Shipping from Mouser is like 6.99 for the cheapest option...dumb for $1-3 worth of terminals.
     
  16. Dec 5, 2015 at 8:38 AM
    #76
    SpeedwayTaco160

    SpeedwayTaco160 Well-Known Member

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    Any new updates?
     
  17. Dec 17, 2015 at 11:18 AM
    #77
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    It does everything I wanted it to do except stay on with dash lights. Comes on with door opening and shuts off when dome shuts off/or doors locked.

    All I need to do is wire my relay to a different positive such as to the interior fuse box and everything is complete. I tried running it to the shift indicator + but think its too weak to give enough power to trigger the relay. But I've been to busy to screw around with my truck at the moment. Going to finish it over this holiday break, and hopefully also finally install other stuff like my fuse block and things too.
     
    Old School likes this.
  18. Dec 20, 2015 at 5:46 PM
    #78
    stairgod

    stairgod NOOB

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    Sounds to me like you relay idea is not working because you have the ground path interrupted. Since the ground for the LED is hooked up to the ground for the dome light, the ground circuit is only complete when a door is open, or if dome light switch is in ON position. Shift indicator should work to trigger the relay, but instead of using a different power source, you need to hook the wire up to the negative wire coming from the LED ring, and the other end to a ground source. Now unfortunately the dome light will come on when you turn on dash lights!!!! I think a one way diode will work so that the ground path can be isolated from the dome light circuit to keep this from happening. I am planning on installing some rock lights, and want them on with a switch as well as on with the dome light, so I need to do essentially the same thing. Just have not had time to install the lights yet and figure out a parts list..lol.
     
  19. Dec 21, 2015 at 9:51 AM
    #79
    Old School

    Old School You are ignoring covfefe by this member.

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    That sounds right, I wouldn't want the ring illuminated full time, just when I need to put the key in!
    Ready for a group buy yet?
    My crimpers are ready to go!
     
  20. Dec 21, 2015 at 10:39 AM
    #80
    JdevTac

    JdevTac [OP] Bawnjourno

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    I was talking with another member and he altered my wiring diagram (on page 3) just a little. But general principle stays the same. So I just need to tweak ground 87 and my + relay source and it should be good. I plan to do this either tomorrow or Wednesday.

    image.jpg



    Idk about a group buy but I'll clean up my first post with a much more clear itemized list of materials.

    I probably wouldn't mind to put some kits together so they were plug in play but I just don't have the time, as shown by my snail pace progression of this thread lol.
     
    stairgod and Old School like this.

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