I'm sorry if this is a much covered topic but I took my 2022 trd sport to mechanic today..

Interesting. I haven’t done a lot of research on the difference between conventional and synthetic oil, but it’s been an assumption of mine since the late 1980’s that synthetic lasts longer mostly based on OEM engine manufacturer’s recommendations. I ran synthetic before it was even recommended for my car, just so I didn’t need to change it as often. (I’m lazy)

I remember being introduced to synthetic 2-stroke oil in my youth and mixing it 50-1 instead of 20-1 and my butt dyno feeling the difference in power and my nose smelling the difference (not important but exciting).

 

I could believe it lasts longer being it’s made from bases that don’t break down quite as quickly. And I think that is one of the main reasons it is used these days (better for environment going through oil less often), that and the fact that synthetic can provide the same overall warm protection but be a bit thinner in the cold, leading to a bit less fuel usage (at least in a calculation).

I have had some leakage issues with synthetics on other platforms (Jeep 4.0) that were pretty much nil with conventional. I think that’s due to the engine design and poorer seal design (2 piece RMS, not many multi-lip seals on that engine). Not an issue here on this truck. So that is not one of the reasons for my choice on this truck.

It seems most people run synthetic these days because it is most readily available (even conventional oils have some synthetic base in them typically) and the fact that it is “best” for the engine. What I haven’t seen proof of is the “best” part. I’ve seen plenty videos that show a tiny bit more wear if you rub two pieces of metal together with conventional on them vs synthetic. With oil being pressurized to most engine parts, I don’t find that to be a very relevant test to the real world. The parts that are only lubricated and not pressurized are typically not high load (timing chain for example) and so the small difference the video tests show doesn’t mean a lot to me. For parts receiving pressurized oil supply, there really shouldn’t be much of a difference in protection at all unless you’re working the parts harder than the oil can protect against. Shouldn’t be a factor if not overheating and keeping it within the stock design as far as rpm and other parameters go.

What I have not seen are engines lasting longer from synthetic or dying earlier from conventional. All just observations on my part, but I’m more of a 5k guy so conventional is what I run.

 

Been running 5W30, 5W40, and 10W30 since first oil change at 2500 miles. I passed 180k last week. Still going.

Used Dino oil for 5 oil changes in South America as it was all I could find.

Oil is oil. Keep it fresh.

 

Im running redline synthetic in my diffs and MT haha. Probably makes no difference but makes me sleep better at night (barely)

 

i got a headache after 4 lines....
had to go in a dark closet for 2 hours....
serenity now....serenity now....

 

These are some long speeches over just some oil changes

 

Did you have a brain fart?

 

I didn't think Gen-Z'ers had a license or owned vehicles

 

5w30 shouldn't hurt anything. I'd pick full synthetic if it were me next time but still the engine will not blow up. Clean oil refreshed regularly is the cheapest most important maintenance to keep an engine going. If it were me I'd run that oil 5,000 miles, then decide what you want your mechanic to do next time.

 

Yes I was angry because it's not the first time I've made appointment lately after 15 yrs of going there to not get what I asked for last 2 times I've had to return for a loose but new replace control arm because it wasn't tightened properly and my wife's last oil change leaked all over the driveway because of a loose drain plug. Thanks to those that made me feel OK about driving to work this morning it's a long way, and I have everything to vhchange it out myself today I just do them at 10 k to keep on file for warranty purposes.. and I will be 50 next year thanks ..not a dumb kid just over them at this point for the rest of the comments. This thing cost half what I payed for my house I don't want to void warranty

 

OP, this is what the owners manual recommends and I would adhere to it.


SAE OW-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.
If SAE OW-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced
with SAE OW-20 at the next oil change.

 

then it needs

$52 0w-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w-20 oil. sounds like you solved your own question.

 

I stopped reading at "oil".

 

The North America manuals says that and the Mexico manual does not. The engines are the same and don’t know what side of the border they are on. Therefore, doesn’t matter.

 

I live on the north side of the border and I’m sure OP does too and I really don’t know anyone who lives on the south side. I quoted the north side since thats where I live and my truck is here so I’m sure that’s why Toyota has two different manuals and I really don’t care what the Mexico manual says.

 

Lol, okay. That’s the simple way to think about it for sure, but doesn’t really justify the OP going and dumping out the oil the shop put in.

 

I thought you might get a laugh out of that. I agree I wouldn’t dump the oil either but I would go back to OW-20 next oil change and no heavier viscosity than 5W-20 IMO.

 

Are you in Mexico (i.e. out of the EPA's reach)? If so 5W30 is the oil specified in the owner's manual.

 

When did this devolve into a Texas vs Mexico factory controversy? lol. I went back through the thread, because I’m that bored, and didn’t find the match that lit this. In any case, up here in the great white north we cannot differentiate Texas from Mexico.