Im stuck need help...

bwood_usmc · Feb 2, 2010

silvertaco82[OP] said: ↑

you know how to change it? couldnt find it in manual
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maybe this will help?? you have auto or manual?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html

MattN03 · Feb 2, 2010

silvertaco82[OP] said: ↑

for the life of me i cannot find the transmission stick if there is one? where is the transmission oil located?
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There is no tranny dipstick on these trucks... Their sealed.

bwood_usmc · Feb 2, 2010

MattN03 said: ↑

There is no tranny dipstick on these trucks... Their sealed.
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Beat you to the punch there Matt

RelentlessFab · Feb 2, 2010

luni said: ↑

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/south-east/20066-i-think-im-gonna-taking-little-time-off.html

For reference, underneath is the before pic

[/hijack]
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Ah yeah, I remember those pics now.

MattN03 · Feb 2, 2010

bwood_usmc said: ↑

Beat you to the punch there Matt
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lol, I must type slow because I swear I didn't see your post!

bwood_usmc · Feb 2, 2010

MattN03 said: ↑

lol, I must type slow because I swear I didn't see your post!
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Ha im on fire tonight

Trigger · Feb 2, 2010

Great Wright Up Luni. I'm gana go ahead and try not to put myself in that position.

luni · Feb 2, 2010

Trigger said: ↑

Great Wright Up Luni. I'm gana go ahead and try not to put myself in that position.
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Strongly recommended. But if you really want to just go ahead and drive off Pillsbury Crossing

tvbd56 · Feb 2, 2010

RelentlessTaco said: ↑

whoa... you're from livermore... I was born there but lived in Oregon since about 3yrs old.

Aaaaand back on topic in......3......2.....1..... @ H2
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that's funny how its like this.
one of those things thats like what goes around comes around

4x4Runner · Feb 2, 2010

FYI, While the auto trans might be sealed and not have a dipstick there "should" be a breather on it still. It's that way on the FJ Cruiser and I know one person that found out the hard way that water can get introduced via that route via $6,000 new transmission. The breathers for both the transfer case and transmission are located on the backside of the engine atop the bell housing. They are a bitch to get to. I have extended them on my FJ and would likely need verification of the existence on the Tacoma. , on the second page look at what I've circled. Is that the breather?

I'd check over the transfer case and look for a breather on it as well. The FJ Cruiser was designed as a more capable rig offroad and with that I if the FJC has breather on the trans and transfer case routed up by the engine I would definitely think the Tacoma has them as well, just not in the same location as the FJC.

Here is a link from FJCruiserforums describing the Scuba Driver mod and the locations of the breathers

silvertaco82 · Feb 2, 2010

thanks guys!

raskal311 · Feb 4, 2010

luni said: ↑

Well I had a marathon post typed up but the window got closed so this is the abbreviated version.

One $11,000 insurance claim and suddenly I get called out in every one of these threads. I hydrolocked, stopped the engine, water backflowed up the exhaust, then water seeped in the doors and flooded the interior. I winched myself out of the hole. Got pulled to a near by parking lot (thanks Roxspin). And didn't try to turn it over or anything until I had done the following.

1.) Pull the air filter, hell pull the hole airbox so you're looking at the throttle body. If you aspirated water it'll be obvious. I didn't sink my intake but water got over the wheel well and a throttle wide open 4.0L V6 took care of the rest.
2.) Change the oil with whatever is on sale. Cheaper the better. It's just a system flush. Look for water in the oil. They don't mix. It will be obvious.
3.) Pull the spark plugs. Reference the Chris4x4 How-to.
4.) Drop the exhaust from the manifolds. Make sure water doesn't drip on your head. In your case it might be big and frozen and heavy. Exhaust pipes get REALLY heavy when all that empty space is filled with water. I did not do this. I'm not sure if it caused all my problems but all that back pressure couldn't have helped.
5.) Attempt to hand crank the engine. You can reach the crankshaft bolt with a socket wrenched then just spin. Without the spark plugs in it should spin freely until your arm gets tired. If it's hard to turn, you have problems. The harder to turn, the greater your problems.
6.) Put key in ignition and attempt to start engine. If water shoots out of one of the cylinders you have your answer. The engine should just spin and spin and spin like a 12 year old schwankin off but doesn't know why yet. It won't fire up because there's no spark, because you pulled the plugs on step 3.

IF THE ENGINE SEIZES FOR ANY REASON, stop. Crack open a beer. Call a tow truck. Game over. Make up a good story, saving drowning children should work, and call your insurance company. At that point you're looking at a snapped rod, bend rod, bent valve, small animal, etc. Repeatedly attempting to crank my busted engine cost me a starter. Now I owe the starting and recharging of my truck to autozone components, and that makes me sad.

IF THE ENGINE SPINS AND SPINS AND SPINS FOREVER AND EVER, crack open a beer, cry tears of joy (not into your beer) and let it dry in above freezing temperatures to get all the water out of cylinders and sitting in your oil pan. I've heard WD-40 displaces the water nicely and prevents your cylinders from rusting in the meanwhile.

replace the air filter,

pull the secondary filter (because it's trashed, throw it across the garage, just for fun, or send it into the mud hole to appease the offroading gods),

clean the hell out of the intake and throttle body,

spray some electric cleaner on the MAF,

replace the spark plugs,

replace the engine oil with the good stuff (I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic and lucas oil stabilizer since my incident and my truck loves me again),

replace your exhaust from the manifolds back, because yours is filled with water and it hosed all the filters and baffles inside, that means new Y-pipe, new muffler, which consequently involves new bolt studs on the exhaust manifold because the heat warped them and the bolts won't screw back on and a new gaskets at all exhaust pipe junctions.

And if you got water in your cab pull the carpet, all of it. Easiest way is to remove the seats, 4 bolts and an electric plug, and start peeling up from the edges underneath the plastic trim, cutting away where necessary and convenient.

IIRC the transmission is completely sealed, not even a dipstick, so the chances of aspirating into your tranny are slim to none. The front diff and and transfer case breathers are up high in the engine bay near the driver side wheel well.

If you haven't snorkeled your rear diff breather then swap your rear diff fluid and do the diff breather mod, it's cheap and easy.

The final tally for my stuck was a broken connecting rod, which took a half-dollar sized chunk out of the engine block, which nuked my starter and led to the engine being rebuilt, the throttle body got rusty from sitting and started seizing and had to be replaced, water in the throttle body shorted the ECU and that had to be replaced. The exhaust from the manifolds back had to be replaced since silt, mud, and water destroyed the guts (thanks jhodge and roxspin). I pulled all the carpet and eventually it's getting bed liner.

My dashboard looked like christmas lights. Also I was throwing a transmission temp light, which was caused by a faulty sensor, not water in the tranny.

After the dealership rebuilt the engine and I replaced all the fluids it's been running good for 8,000 miles. The passenger side axle seal is leaking but should be a warranty fix. Keep an eye out for compromised seals and listen for bad bearings. Replace them when time and money allow.

Take your time, trying to take short cuts or rush anything will only cause a big expensive fuck-up.

AND NOW PICS!!!!111

Note: I had already winched out almost a full truck length. When I sunk my winch was almost completely underwater. I was running winch cable in my underwear and the ruts I was in went up to mid thigh.

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NVM found the answer on a later post.

Jon M · Feb 9, 2010

Update?

Jason'sLawnCare · Feb 9, 2010

Jon M said: ↑

Update?
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x2

luni · Feb 9, 2010

silvertaco82 · Feb 13, 2010

getting looked at by mechanic. it is the computer must have gotten messed up from the water. interior is fine. he also found a coroded connection leading to the computer. Everything should be good!

NumNutz · Feb 13, 2010

silvertaco82[OP] said: ↑

getting looked at by mechanic. it is the computer must have gotten messed up from the water. interior is fine. he also found a coroded connection leading to the computer. Everything should be good!
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Sweet man!

Jason'sLawnCare · Feb 13, 2010

glad to hear.

silvertaco82 · Feb 14, 2010

alright need a little more help. my mechanic says 5-700 for the computer. I was wondering if i could do any better than that and if so where would i find it?

JDMcQ · Feb 14, 2010

silvertaco82[OP] said: ↑

alright need a little more help. my mechanic says 5-700 for the computer. I was wondering if i could do any better than that and if so where would i find it?
Click to expand...

Try a wrecking yard, or ebay for aone out of a wrecked Tacoma. Call the dealer to confirm the price of the part, the dealer is the only place to get one new, I believe

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