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I'm tired of blowing out fuses

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by 07TacoRidah, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    Engine bay: aFe Pro Dry filter Secondary air filter deleted Sokie Tech hood damper kit Xscorpion dual 0g wire ring terminal (3) Big 3 upgrade (0g wiring) HID kit (headlights - 3k) Bullz Audio 0g wire Exterior: Blacked out OEM headlight housing Front grille swap (to chrome, dipped red) XR front bumper valance (dipped red) Aftermarket fog light kit w/OEM switch Rear bumper swap (to chrome) 99 Cents Store tailgate lock Suspension: 1" spindle spacer kit (Addional nuts and longer bolts added) 4x4 leaf pack swap (middle leaf removed) 1" Drop Blocks Air Lift rear helper springs Rims: 18x9.5 Asuka ST 15-2 rims et26 all around 5mm billet aluminum wheel spacers 225/40/18 tires all around Neochrome lock nuts Pepboys valve stem caps Interior: Wink Mirror rear view Center console lid fabric Metra Dash kit Pioneer DEH 5000ub Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 PB 6 1/2" component speakers up front 10" JBL GTO 1014 (2) 4 ohm svc in dual ported box JDM Fuchsia shift knob (old Dickies pants shift boot)
    I'm about tired of swapping out fuse after fuse. I'm only using one amp at the moment (60A total draw) but plan on adding in another amp as well (which is also 60A total draw). In the past while using the one amp (powering subs), I have put in a 100A fuse and it eventually melted the fuse holder. So I put in a different fuse holder and am now using 60A fuses only. So with that in mind, I want to put in a circuit breaker BUT if I put in a 120A one, will that just end up switching off every now and then? I am assuming what will happen if I only have one amp wired as of now, it will do the same thing it did when I had the 100A fuse .... should I just get the 120A breaker anyway? Not installing the second amp anytime soon (don't have the wiring for it and not really sure when I will be able to install it).
     
  2. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    Engine bay: aFe Pro Dry filter Secondary air filter deleted Sokie Tech hood damper kit Xscorpion dual 0g wire ring terminal (3) Big 3 upgrade (0g wiring) HID kit (headlights - 3k) Bullz Audio 0g wire Exterior: Blacked out OEM headlight housing Front grille swap (to chrome, dipped red) XR front bumper valance (dipped red) Aftermarket fog light kit w/OEM switch Rear bumper swap (to chrome) 99 Cents Store tailgate lock Suspension: 1" spindle spacer kit (Addional nuts and longer bolts added) 4x4 leaf pack swap (middle leaf removed) 1" Drop Blocks Air Lift rear helper springs Rims: 18x9.5 Asuka ST 15-2 rims et26 all around 5mm billet aluminum wheel spacers 225/40/18 tires all around Neochrome lock nuts Pepboys valve stem caps Interior: Wink Mirror rear view Center console lid fabric Metra Dash kit Pioneer DEH 5000ub Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 PB 6 1/2" component speakers up front 10" JBL GTO 1014 (2) 4 ohm svc in dual ported box JDM Fuchsia shift knob (old Dickies pants shift boot)
  3. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    Can you tell me everything about your stereo, your fuse isn't the issue, something else is causing this and adding bigger fuses is a bad idea.

    What amps/subs
    What size wire for power?
    where is it grounded too?

    If you have everything done correctly you shouldn't be popping fuses. And putting in bigger fuses is a bad idea (why your fuse holder melted).

    Adding circuit breakers is a good idea, AFTER you figure out what is causing your fuses to pop.

    Edit: I use a 60amp Monster Circuit breaker, I run a 600watt Mono block Alpine amp for the sub and a T400.4 Rockford amp for the mids/highs and I don't pop the breaker ever.
     
  4. ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I agree....there's a root problem that's being missed. Give us the full rundown on your equipment and your install.
     
  5. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    audio setup from engine bay to cab

    Battery - brand new Bosch

    P Terminal - (digital gauge is dead, got it for free though) 1 terminal for 0g (alt), 2 for 4g (to fuse holder) and top bolts for misc connections (used them for OE terminals - battery and one other wire)

    N Terminal - OE terminal with two 4g wires to fender

    0g from stock alt. to battery, on engine block to fender for gnd

    Amp - (60a total draw) Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 4 channel (switched to 2 channels, bridged channels - 1/2 as 1, 3/4 as 1). All 4g to amp (gnd inside cab by driver door sill area under sill plastic thing)

    Subwoofers - 10" Hifonics Zeus (SVC 4 ohm; both) 350W total RMS ea.

    H.U. - Pioneer DEH 5000UB (default settings/presets - when I have my cell connected, max volume is around 45/46 - radio is about 48/50 something like that)

    Speakers - front - 6.5" PB comps rated @ 75w rms (no amp - hooked up to h.u.); rear OE speakers
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2013
  6. 6spd

    6spd Well-Known Member

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    pics of your physical connections to/fro your amp?
     
  7. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    Engine bay: aFe Pro Dry filter Secondary air filter deleted Sokie Tech hood damper kit Xscorpion dual 0g wire ring terminal (3) Big 3 upgrade (0g wiring) HID kit (headlights - 3k) Bullz Audio 0g wire Exterior: Blacked out OEM headlight housing Front grille swap (to chrome, dipped red) XR front bumper valance (dipped red) Aftermarket fog light kit w/OEM switch Rear bumper swap (to chrome) 99 Cents Store tailgate lock Suspension: 1" spindle spacer kit (Addional nuts and longer bolts added) 4x4 leaf pack swap (middle leaf removed) 1" Drop Blocks Air Lift rear helper springs Rims: 18x9.5 Asuka ST 15-2 rims et26 all around 5mm billet aluminum wheel spacers 225/40/18 tires all around Neochrome lock nuts Pepboys valve stem caps Interior: Wink Mirror rear view Center console lid fabric Metra Dash kit Pioneer DEH 5000ub Hifonics Zeus ZXi 6410 PB 6 1/2" component speakers up front 10" JBL GTO 1014 (2) 4 ohm svc in dual ported box JDM Fuchsia shift knob (old Dickies pants shift boot)
    hope this helps

    04172013458.jpg
    04172013459.jpg
    04172013460.jpg
    04172013461.jpg
    04172013462.jpg
    04172013463.jpg
    04172013464.jpg
    04172013465.jpg
    04172013466.jpg
    04172013467.jpg
    04172013470.jpg
     
  8. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    That's a bad ground (last pic). You need to not have any paint for one and a metal screw into that part of the truck isn't good either.

    I'll go over the rest later but that's one thing I saw right off the batt that isn't good.
     
  9. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    I was told to run the gnd back to the battery ... but I don't think I have enough 4g to do that. Is there a closer contact spot where I currently have it placed?
    I'll change out the screw to an all metal one later today.
     
  10. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    I don't suggest grounding to the battery personally. Find the bolt for the rear seatbelt, take it out, sand down the paint, use that. Otherwise I JL makes a plug you could feed the ground wire under the truck and go to the frame.
     
  11. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    this one?
    https://www.expeditionexchange.com/jlaudio/jlaudio001 016.jpg

    I found the rear seat bolts (attached). looks like the amount of wire I will need is about the same as I would need to reach the battery neg. hopefully I have enough (taking from the air set-up) 4g. to make it, if not I'll just get the plug (when I do install the other amp, can I ground it in the same place the 1st amp is or would I have to find a similar/better spot? btw, do you happen to know what size the bolt is for the rear seat belt?

    04172013471.jpg
    04172013472.jpg
     
  12. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    That's the plug!

    Your amp looks like its under the seat, you can use the bolts the seats use to bold down. Anything that's a good solid piece of metal with no paint will do the trick. Short grounds are better if you can wing it.
     
  13. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    SWEET!!! hope this fixes the problem. :confused: :(
     
  14. snowgod06

    snowgod06 UG legend wannabe

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    crap bolted and welded together....
    definitely a ground issue. As i recall, for a amp ground you should not exceed 18'' if it can be helped.
     
  15. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    I've always been told under 3ft for ground. Either way a good ground point is a must!
     
  16. ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    I want to reiterate the reasons this is a poor ground. One, the paint on the metal of the truck isn't sanded down. You're not actually contacting metal at all and paint doesn't conduct electricity. Second, the screw you are using is coated in some sort of paint as well. So you're trying to conduct electricity between two NON CONDUCTIVE materials.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    Did the ground fix the issue?
     
  18. 07TacoRidah

    07TacoRidah [OP] SHHHH, this is interesting

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    saw Italian's post and went from there really. I don't have the terminal size for the seat bolt. :mad::( (thought I did ... hate my memory). So I went and sanded down the original spot more (best I could :p). Also changed the bolt to an all metal one, found it in my tool box. The top is pretty beat, but the bottom area is fine, imo, should I grind at it a little just for the sake of it (so I don't have to do it all over and over ... lol)?

    04182013473.jpg
     
  19. Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    Well that's a improvement, but I'd still get it to a seat bolt. The metal you are using for a ground isn't the best to use.

    Autozone/Checkers/Autoparts stores typically carry those terminal ends.
     
  20. newertoy

    newertoy Well-Known Member

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    Added note--Are the terminals "crimped" and soldered, or just crimped?
    Solder is BEST.
     
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