Imminent Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) failure in 2016s?

If I'm on the wilderness with no scan tool I should be able to disconnect the negative battery terminal to clear any mil codes. Only if there are any other hard codes left will the light turn on right?
It may run like chit for a couple days while it relearnes but no biggie

Cheers!

 

For $15, buy a scan tool and keep it in your truck. I do now that I ended up with a MIL after my shell was installed. We dinked around for a long time because neither myself or the installer had our scan tool handy.

OBD2 Scanner CAN OBDII Code Reader - Scan Tool for Check Engine Light - Universal Diagnostic for Car, SUV, Truck and Van (MS300)

https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scann...011Q18D14/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


It will easily clear your MIL, but keep in mind you need a list of codes or internet access to make it useful for troubleshooting.


Or you can get the dongle that works with your phone. I've got a ScanGaugeII for monitoring transmission temperature that will also work to read codes and clear the MIL.

 

Imminent huh?

 

This thing?

 

It's not a bad idea to have this somewhere on the dash, but as for me, I'm waiting for a verified blue tooth solution that works on the '16 Taco with Iphone, IPad, and/or Macbook to connect to TIS and change some settings like you can with windows pc. I really do hate PC, I stopped using them completely six years ago because of so many crashes. Really unsafe POS lolo!

Cheers!

 

Thanks to the CSP R&R instructions provided by aggie77 It looks to be a real genuine walk on the park sort of thing.
No jacking up the vehicle, or removing the tire even.
Although, I would think turning the tire all the way left or right might give better access.
I love simplicity like this, If it turns out to be an issue (more failures) I will not be terribly concerned about getting stranded.
Moreover, If I see one more post about CSP sensor failure, I will go buy one to keep on the glove box, so please no more posts! lmaoo!
But also if a TSB comes out regarding this being identified as an issue, I will simply just go buy a new updated one and replace it and keep the old one in my glove box just in case.
Again aggie77, thank you.
This does help!
Cheers!

 

If the CSP were to fail it seems to go to a no start condition. Does the MIL light flash like severe failure or does the light just come on solid?

 

Has anyone actually crawled under to see where that "access Panel" is located?? In my experience with this sort of thing... the fender liner is right there where the crank position sensor is looks like to me, oh and the exhaust down pipe is there too so its going to be real hot for a while before you can get in there. I wouldn't think a fix "in the field" would be an easy one. Then there's that pesky little issue of the truck running in "limp" mode.

Good thing I have a manual..in my Honda I could drive around with the CEL on and the cams and crank out of time (one tooth) due to timing chain stretch. I wonder if that would be the same for Toyota (no limp mode for manuals)?

 

"Fender liner" on the Tacoma is just a rubber flap secured with a few clips, aft of the shock tower: https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachm...on-sensor_components-2016-tacoma-pdf.1105674/ Looks pretty easy with a long socket extension.

 

My 2016 Tac, purchased from Metro Toyota on Vancouver Island failed with 13,000 km on the odometer. Loss of power, back firing, jerking and vibrations, numerous trouble lights displaying on dash. Would not restart easily and trouble symptoms reappeared quickly. Feared that it was not safe to drive the vehicle on the highway and that I might also damage it if I tried. Towed to Toy dealer. They advised that following codes were displayed - PO3000, PO3352A, P160300, P27567F and U0163. They indicated that the vehicle ran fine for them and that they could not duplicate the codes. They wanted to keep the vehicle and let a mechanic drive it around but did not offer a loaner. I cannot be without a vehicle so I took it back and the same thing happened a day later. Towed to Toy dealer again and this time they diagnosed it as requiring a new crankshaft vibration sensor. No parts readily available and no idea when they would be. Had to fight with the dealer to get a loaner but they eventually came thru. Have had the repaired vehicle back for several weeks and it seems to run fine. This is my fourth Toy truck and have always had my servicing done at the dealership.

 

Out of curiosity, was the tach needle going dead or jumping around when this happened?

Yea, intermittent problems tend to give headaches. Did you have to pay for the two tows out of pocket, or was it covered by Toyota's roadside assistance?

And there's no such thing as a crank vibration sensor. There's a crank position sensor and an unrelated knock sensor.

 

Did not note what the tach was doing during the incidents. Toy Roadside Assistance handled the tows.

 

Mine failed today, with 10k miles, luckily right before I went up a very large 2 lane bridge with no shoulder. Same symptoms as labboy. Got towed to the dealership and they are going to have it until early next week.

 

Not another one huh? Chit!!
I got my finger on a spare one for $97 USD, but IDK if it will the same crap that's in there now.
With my luck, it'll fail on dark desolate and rainy country road :/

If anyone gets an update please post

Cheers!

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - 2016 Toyota Tacoma (9091905089)
http://parts.toyotaofdallas.com/toy...engine/electrical-cat/powertrain-control-scat

 

I'm on my way out of town right now for three days of over landing and this whole CPS has me scared. I just pulled over and ordered the part to Cary withe me in the future.

 

Same link I posted last week.

 

Let's collect some data: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...cps-crankshaft-position-sensor-issues.443161/

 

It could well be dangerous! When the engine cuts out you lose your power steering and brakes. Also, you might have to manoeuvre your way across lanes of bumper-to-bumper traffic, as I did, trying to use the momentum of the vehicle to reach the shoulder of the road. Trying to restart the vehicle and pull back out into traffic is definitely a risky manoeuvre, as the engine will invariably die again. Interestingly, on the two separate occasions when my vehicle was taken to the dealership it started and ran fine. So the fault would appear to be intermittent.

Labboy

 

Exactly what mine did.