Improving my new speakers sound quality

I just installed a new Kenwood 594BT head unit, and tomorrw my new KENWOOD KFC-C6866S 6x8" 2way speakers will be here tomorrow. I want to improve the sound fromt this system, but I'm not in a position to sound proof my truck right now. so here's my plan

1. I'm going to put some hushmat around and under the speaker mount on the door, and then put some on the outside door skin under the speaker hole.
2. then I'm going to put some dynamat Speaker Wave-Breaker Kit material on top of the dynamat under the speaker hole too.

I want to do this for all four doors. So will this help cut down on door vibrations and better speaker sound, or am I wasting my time and money. these are the 2 materials I'm looking at.

Not exactly dynamat, but I can get it somewhat quickly

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HushMat...-1-4-sq-ft-Black-Stealth-Foil-10110/310188428

and for option 2 listed above

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HushMat-0-89-sq-ft-Speaker-Wave-Breaker-Kit-82450/310188430

Thanks for any replies good or bad, and any suggestions you might have.

 

I think you got some of the basics down, but I wouldn't be able to tell you how much you'll get out of it. Don't rush it, take your time. Get what you want, cause once you stick it on it's hard to get off. Try looking up Resonix, on that website it has a reference information and guide section which is a good read.

Learned a lot on diy Mobile Audio

 

I did this previously and just finished my rear doors this weekend. I used Noico 80mm sheets and it was a night and day difference. I only have my HU replaced at the moment until my amp comes in to replace my fronts with Morels. I put a sheet directly behind the speaker. A sheet on the upper outer skin of the door and on the lower skin. You can see the silver Noico and where i placed it. I wouldnt use the stuff from Home depot as i think it will heat up and cause a smell in the truck

 

This.

You really don’t need much, just some on the large areas and around the speaker.

 

I wound up ordering some kilmat from Amazon, and 4 pieces of hushmat for behind the speakers. I notice there are many who put another layer over the door using Ensolite or something similar. might or might not do this, depends on the cost, and I'm on a tight budget.

 

You could get a box of Noico for $70 that will be enough to do all 4 doors and the back wall of you plan on adding a sub. Half of that would also be plenty and prob better than the killmat. From what I read the Killmat is hard to work with. A small hair dryer or heat gun for about 20 secs works great on the Noico. You can put the Noico behind the speakers like in my pic. Also get a metal roller to help apply it.
This will prob be good amount for your doors. It goes a long way
@CrippledOldMan some fast rings may help as well. What’s your budget? We may be able to come up with something to help. Check the items below

Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

$36 Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012B5EMGO

Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool for Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation Materials for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)

$10 Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool for Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation Materials for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015WJH4ZW?_encoding=UTF8

 

as cheap as possible with "decent" materials. I read quite a few reviews of the kilmat, and cost wise, I thought it might be a good choice. Like my username states, very limited physically. Disabled and fixed income limit my spending habits.

 

I used mat66 from Amazon. It had the most sheets of the foil butyl at the cheapest price. It's similar to noico

 

Understandable. If you can get one of the rollers, it will def help with applying the mat so that it’s pressed down and sealed. Let us know how it works and like Dolby said. Hit the large areas and behind and around the speaker. You can use my pic for reference and you will notice a big difference

 

Thanks for all the reply's , I'm hoping to get started this weekend, maybe sooner. Just waiting on everything to get here. With the holiday season on top of companies being short handed, I hate buying stuff this time of year.

 

My friend use to build woofer boxes. He sometimes uses old clothes as insulation, expansion foam.

There's a lot of alternative materials that can be used.

 

Let us know how it goes and feel free to ask questions. I see you have a 1st Gen so watch a vid to make sure you get all the screws and tabs to remove the door and the rest is easy. A fresh razor blade helps to cut the sealeant between the vapor barrier and the door and I used painters tape to hold it up. When adding to the larger panel near the top, wear a long sleeve shirt. The edges will cut you. lol

 

I ordered enough of the push tabs that hold the door panel on since I broke several taking off the drivers side. Opened the box, and of course they sent me the wrong part. So I'm waiting for toyotaparts.com to open so I can call them and ask if anyone there can read part numbers on orders.

 

While old blankets and such have their place such as keeping your kick drum muffled in your parent’s basement, DO NOT use expanding foam or rags etc. in doors.

The knucklehead owner of my truck did that and I was cursing him while having to dig out old foam to get to the backside of a dent I needed to repair and it’ll also block your venting at the bottom of your doors which retains water and adds to rusting out earlier. Cloth will absorb the moisture in doors and will eventually grow mildew.

 

I agree, you def don’t want blankets etc.. inside your doors. The killmat or Noico will do fine and you can even cut some smaller pieces to put on the inside of the door panel itself to deaden it some.
@CrippledOldMan
if you have a harbor freight around, pick up some of the panel removed tools to help pop the door panel so off. I start at the bottom and pull lightly. If I can’t get a good grip, then I use a pry tool to turn sideways slightly to pop each tab

 

I used the plastic tools, but I think the 18 years old plastic tabs have become too brittle. Waiting on toyotaparts.com to figure out why they sent me the wrong parts.

 

You may be right, they prob snapped due to going from hot to cold. This Triad weather can have an effect on them. Hopefully they get what you need soon

 

I ordered a set of the panel removal tools on Amazon that came with 20 or 25 each of 10 different clips for $16 or so. It had the push pins and the door panel clips I needed.

I used the Noico 80mil stuff. Cut it with scissors, easy to work with.

 

Well I ordered some new Door Tabs from McGeorge Toyota and what do you know, they sent me the correct part. Waiting on ToyotPartsdeal to send me a refund. Still have received the 50 square ft of sound deadening material, but I have a questions.

On the inside of the door/outer door skin, do I need to completely cover this area, or just under the speaker and move out towards the middle of the door. Second, on the door skin under the door panel itself that has all the holes, it appears most are covering this area completely, correct?
And last, do I have to wait for warmer weather to install this, or will a 60 degree day be warm enough for everything to stick.

thanks for all the replies.

 

I would prioritize the area behind the speaker, but don't feel like you need 100% coverage. You'll get diminishing returns after a certain point (40-60% ??), my understanding is that the butyl works mostly by stopping vibrations / ringing noises, while the foam materials reduce the intensity of sound waves. I used the Noico butyl sheets on the other shell and on the door skin under the panel. You'll notice a big difference the first time you close the door after install.

A 60 degree day should be fine, the sheets have a pretty strong adhesive on them.