In need of some front lower control arm bushing help

Hey guys, i need to plumb the depth of the available wisdom on this site. I have a 2010 double cab trd. Ordered new upper and lower control arm bushings. Mechanic has it tore apart on the lift. Bushing part# 48654-04040. It did not come with inner bushing. See pix. Parts book does not show this. Where can i find that? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

This "mechanic" is scary

 

Thank you! That's the one part i didnt order.

 

This "mechanic" is scary. It's clear they don't understand the part they are working on and I would assume used a hammer to break apart the cam before bending the shit out of the tabs and then is bending the rear tabs while posing for the picture. I wouldn't be surprised if OPs alignment is shit and is at it's limits when this is done..

 

cam bolt seized and your tab is bent to shit. Replace LCA and save time and money. I wouldnt go back to that dude cause he is fucking your shit up

 

I have some stock arms ready to ship out if you want them. Only 40K on them and in almost perfect condition. Bushings are 100%.

 

Semi local dealer had the parts. Cant change
Horses in midstream, right? I will let y'all know how it turns out. Thanks for all the help!

 

That is the rear, front is different but yes that is the cam sleeve stuck in there. Also I can’t believe the mechanic bent the shit out of the frame instead of using a sawzall to the sleeve

 

Yikes

 

Oh yeah you’re right. Been a long time since I had to deal with this lol. I see they removed the oval part off the splines

 

I’d never go back to this mechanic. I’m predicting alignment nightmares. Marlin Crawler LCA gussets and a good local welder should be on your mod list soon. He is bending the frame to get out a part that’s cheap and easy to replace. It’s like having your arm broken to make it easier for the doctor to remove a splinter.

 

oh no no no

 

@balertech just in case..
https://jdfabrication.com/products/tacoma-05-18-lower-arm-pivots

 

@balertech what was the outcome? Did you get an alignment after that?

 

He did whut?


I need a moment to just...

 

Well, believe it or not, it drives pretty good. Doesn't have the steering wheel shake or the banging noise like it did. My wife just drove it up north about 1500 miles. Made it just fine. Be interesting to check the tire wear when she gets back. Thanks to all the replies! Y'all are awsome!

 

Check the torque on those when she gets back! With the tab bent like that, I'd want to double check that everything is tight. I bent one like that when I swapped mine out a couple of years ago, trying one of the 'fancy' seized cam sleeve removers. That corner took a little extra 'torque' to keep tight.
IF you find your steering wheel off at all (not centered, rolling down the highway), then something has shifted, most likely due to a loose LCA bolt. Keep in mind that on one you tighten the bolt and on the one wit the sleeve (if I remember correctly) you tighten the nut. The truck should have it's full weight resting on the tires so you can drive it up on some ramps to check. Verify the torque but I had to tighten mine a couple of times a few weeks apart to get them to stay put. Of course, it may be because I greased the sh!t out of mine before I reassembled them, to avoid corrosion and seizing in the future.
I still check mine every couple of months. While you're at it, get some grade 8 bolts for your skid plates and put a little grease on them when installed. You'll have to remove your front skid to check the LCA hardware.

 

Yea I'd double and triple everything. Maybe that's because the look of the work, maybe it's because I offroad and it's good practice anyways.

 

I would imagine you wouldn't have issues if it was put back together correctly, I'm happy to hear that. We're all just a little taken aback by the apparent lack of knowledge and method that guy employed to remove the control arm from the frame.