In the market for a 3rd Gen. Trim ? and Price ?

1) I'm in the market for a 3rd Gen Double Cab 4x4 as the minimum requirement. Though my current vehicle is a regular car at some point in the future I'd like to venture off-road. My question is: if I get the SR5 or TRD Sport and eventually swap out tires, remove front air foil and +/- slight lift will the off-road worthiness be significantly different than the TRD Off-road that's got all the fancy tech and suspension difference. Also can any Off-Road owners chime in: is the highway mileage really that much worse? Closer to 20 vs 24?

As far as ride is concerned I test drove both (obviously on-road) and it seemed like the off-road soaked up the bumps a lot better.

2) Pricing: Do you think I can get into a used 2016 double cab 4x4 OTD for ~ $30-32k? What's the best price I can expect for a new 1?

 

Don't expect 24 mpg from any of the trims, most get 17-22 range and I found my sr5 and off road were the same. And once you go lift along with I'm assuming 285s or 265s at a min likely then E rated tires you can expect 16-20 mpg.

The only way you could get into a new off-road 4wd at that price is maybe a non optioned manual dcsb, otherwise you'll be closer to $34k range, $32k sounds about right for used.

 

Make sure to get the tow package if you ever plan on pulling a trailer it is much more expensive after the fact.

 

Good advice. Even if you aren't going to tow, you benefit from transmission cooler, bigger battery, etc. with tow package.

 

hmm thanks. how about the off-road capability and realistic pricing?

 

Pricing we already mentioned off road capability it wins with rear locker, hydraulic brake booster, crawl control, mts, etc. but most won't use any of those and can navigate off road fine without them, it boils down to what you plan on doing with your truck and what is or isn't a priority.

 

There are a ton of questions here...
1) If you remove the front air dam you will loose milage
2) If you increase tire size you will loose milage. I am guessing that you will go larger than the stock even those on a TRD and that will kill milage. How much depends on what size. Are you adding a lift to get those bigger tires under there? How much. Are you leveling. What tire are you choosing and what is its weight.
3) I test drove an TRD sport and own an offroad. The ride over bumps in my OR is nice and settled. The sport handled much quicker and did not absorb bumps as good during my drive. Is handling important or is a cushy ride more important???
4)20 VS 24. The best i have ever done is 21 in my OR during the summer "with summer gas" and just crusing to work on a 4 lane back road. I way more often get 19ish. Mods will drag you way down and if you check the milage threads here people running large tires on lifts are in the 15-17 range some are worse.
5)pricing: These trucks hold there value like crazy and after looking for over a year i just bought new. Trucks with 60-80k were only marked down a few thousand from new and i just could not find any value buying used vise new. I paid 35 for mine new and then 3300 in tax later as i bought my truck outright. 32 before tax might be doable for a plain quad cab OR 4x4 if you can find one without any tech packages, all that will cost more.

 

thanks for the detailed reply! now that you've owned the OR for some time, are you still satisfied with the handling?

 

I love everything about my truck except the power train. I have owned a lot of toyota's and this 3.5 does not have the balls that my wifes 2 minivans with the same size motor does. Besides that no major issues to report.

 

I got a new 17 4x4 trd OR for $35700 out the door price (texas)

 

24 mpg in a stock SR5 isn't hard, drive like paw paw and you can get it.... even better if you try.

 

hmm, did it include any options? running boards? technology package? bed cover? if you don't mind me asking...what dealership was that? i'm in Dallas myself...

 

My TRD OR combines for 19 most of the time with its 21 gallon tank I regularly fill up between 350 and 400 miles. I don't care what the computer says I always have to fill up around the same amount of mileage.

The OR is more capable with the locker. A locker will get you in and out of more places than a lift or anything else will.

 

I gave 37k for my 16' (42k sticker) back in July. 4x4 DCSB OffRoad with Tech package and JBL (had bedcover as well). NC Dealer. I average about 19.5 mpg typically. Towing the boat or diesel side/side, I get about 11.5.

Best advice I can give, figure out what you want, send an email outlining your wants/needs and price (start with the best price on TrueCar), and shotgun it out to all the dealers in your area. Some won't reply, others will. Last two vehicles I have bought were done this way, it sped up the process, saved me a lot off MSRP/sticker, and kept me from wanting to beat the hell out a sales manager.

 

If the double cab is a must then you will be a little higher than the bare bones V6 AT SR5 AC 4x4 (with tow package) I have on order. I got two dealers down to 31,400 --I went with the local guys who give a 2yr free routine maint. plus a lifetime drivetrain warranty with a $100 ded. This is a 3rd party, but who cares-- its included. I got rid of my 2002 F150 XLT 4x4. I sold it outright 7500. I do not believe in trading in as that's where dealers make most of their profits. I have NEVER traded in a vehicle ever--and I am a old fart!
I think I could have gotten a stripped down Full cab for 500 or so higher, but we (wife and I decided we did not need the bigger cab--that's what the 15 Subaru Outback is for). One disadvantage --it is very hard to find a stripped down Access cab. Therefore I ordered --should be in mid to late Jan as It got in on this months dealer allocation.
Take your time and you will get what you want --go out to the Toyota build site plus also do the build at "US News" car build site, as its actually more accurate and they do not try to force you into stuff you don't want/need -- play around with different builds. Don't send anything to dealers till you have truly decided what you need/want --as the will pounce on you like a bunch of "hungry lions"
Also one more tip dealers prey on folks with the line like " well sir/maam that new "limited will only cost you xxx more dollars a month"
This does not give any importance as to what the truck will cost you BOTTOM LINE TOTAL. those few little add-ons can add up as the years of payments go by.

 

If you don't really need a truck bed, get the 4Runner instead. The powertrain in the 3rd gen isn't fully sorted just yet.

 

please elaborate....i need a bed and all of the published car reviews give it tons of praise

 

I think the 3.5 has been around awhile, I know its only in its 2nd year in the Taco but I would sure hope they have the issues squared away.

 

I had a '09 Offroad, and before I traded in for the '16 Offroad I tested out a Frontier, Colorado and Canyon. I prefer a mid-size so I skipped Ford and Dodge. But none of them felt as good as the Tacoma. It's probably because I am used to the '09. I have not had any issues with my '16 Offroad after the transmission TSB was done. I won't comment on price since I got mine for next to nothing. If you plan to offroad, you might as well spend the extra and get the Offroad trim.

 

The issues with the 3rd Gen powertrain have been well covered in numerous threads here. Some of which have been largely rectified (AT shifting excessively, upshifting too early, near-dead throttle at tip-in) via TSBs (REV 0 and now on REV 1). Some of which remain. My truck now drives much better than it did originally, but it still has the following issues with the powertrain:

1. Rear diff howls at speeds between 50 and 60 MPH while feathering the throttle.
2. Front needle bearing “rumbles” at ambient temps below 70F. I am totally stock.
3. Engine routinely “stumbles” under light load at 1350 RPM or so. This may be preignition as using 91 octane seems to reduce the magnitude/frequency. The data set is not large enough to conclude anything yet (did 91 for a tank or two, went back to regular for a tank or two, now back to 91 for another round of testing).
4. Engine occasionally surges near idle leading to thrilling garage entry scenarios.
5. Engine related vibration causes the steering wheel to vibrate noticeably at 2100 RPM. I intentionally try to avoid that RPM.
6. I get a nice clunk/kick in the rear occasionally when coming to a stop, like a really poorly executed 2-1 downshift from the AT.
7. The brake booster on the OR appears to be quite sensitive and even small foot movements in response to AT downshifts can lead to either rather firm or way-to-mild braking. Some days it seems like every stop is an event.

I like the size of the truck, the utility of the truck, and the features of the truck. I have learned to tolerate the powertrain (which is an improvement from loathing it). Other folks don’t have any issues at all and love the truck. Good luck.