1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Incredibly weak tail-light problem

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Airun, Jan 14, 2014.

  1. Jan 14, 2014 at 3:44 PM
    #1
    Airun

    Airun [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2010
    Member:
    #33516
    Messages:
    2,640
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Aaron
    Show Me State
    Vehicle:
    TRD sport, DCLB, 4wd
    Debadged, custom emblem, Husky liners, custom bedrail Yak Trak setup with load bars, , BakFlip Fibermax, OME 3" lift with LightRacing UCAs
    I've got an intermittently functioning tail, that comes on and off sporadicly, and has for years on my '96. Not flickering, just works perfectly for several months and out of the blue, not for a while. Currently NOT working as pointed out by a Sherriff's deputy recently:D. When I pull open both sides, both bulbs work perfectly on the other side. When I probe the bad side I'm getting 12v to the contact in the socket and there is no corrosion, and the spring seat seams fine.

    Any clue as to what would cause this nonsense?
     
  2. Jan 14, 2014 at 3:51 PM
    #2
    Fisheez

    Fisheez Built Ford Tough.

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Member:
    #52569
    Messages:
    300
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zack
    So Cal
    Vehicle:
    Tacomaless For Now
    Have you tried wiggling the socket where you are getting power from the battery to see if you get a voltage drop? Could be an exposed/damaged wire in the circuit, or a bad contact where the wiring meets the socket.
     
  3. Jan 14, 2014 at 3:52 PM
    #3
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 48 Year Chrysler/Toyota/ASE/ Master Tech.RETIRED

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Member:
    #61230
    Messages:
    31,235
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Southern Maine
    Vehicle:
    2011 Double Cab V6 1995 Bass Tracker
    Large Storage Box, 02610 intermittent switch swap, "Hot Wire" Power Outlets, DRL Shut Off, Disable Fob Beep, Disable Seat Belt Buzzers, Parking Light Mod, Battery Tender, 4 Leaf Spring Pack, Rear Headrest Removal, Factory Tow Package (7 Pin) Rear Diff Mod, Taco Lean Mod, 2WD Low ECU.
    You talking about the 96 or 2010?
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  4. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:03 PM
    #4
    Airun

    Airun [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2010
    Member:
    #33516
    Messages:
    2,640
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Aaron
    Show Me State
    Vehicle:
    TRD sport, DCLB, 4wd
    Debadged, custom emblem, Husky liners, custom bedrail Yak Trak setup with load bars, , BakFlip Fibermax, OME 3" lift with LightRacing UCAs
    96
    Got ready to crawl underneath and futz with wiring some more and now all of the sudden it works. So I go to put bulb in other side and its not working but I can get it to work intermittently by pushing in on housing.??????????????????
    I'm just gonna pick up 2 bulbs (1157) tomorrow and see what happens.:confused:
     
  5. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:05 PM
    #5
    Airun

    Airun [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2010
    Member:
    #33516
    Messages:
    2,640
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Aaron
    Show Me State
    Vehicle:
    TRD sport, DCLB, 4wd
    Debadged, custom emblem, Husky liners, custom bedrail Yak Trak setup with load bars, , BakFlip Fibermax, OME 3" lift with LightRacing UCAs
    The wiring in rear looks less than pristine from trailer plug install years ago. I've owned this truck since 1999:)
     
  6. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:08 PM
    #6
    Fisheez

    Fisheez Built Ford Tough.

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Member:
    #52569
    Messages:
    300
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zack
    So Cal
    Vehicle:
    Tacomaless For Now
    If its working when putting pressure on the housing, it's not the bulb. I guarantee there's a loose solder connection where the wiring meets the socket. I'd check to see with your meter if you get continuity from the back of the housing to the front of the housing and give it a wiggle. Test on each wire to find your culprit.

    Edit: Back of the socket/connector to front of socket/connector
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  7. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:11 PM
    #7
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 48 Year Chrysler/Toyota/ASE/ Master Tech.RETIRED

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Member:
    #61230
    Messages:
    31,235
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Southern Maine
    Vehicle:
    2011 Double Cab V6 1995 Bass Tracker
    Large Storage Box, 02610 intermittent switch swap, "Hot Wire" Power Outlets, DRL Shut Off, Disable Fob Beep, Disable Seat Belt Buzzers, Parking Light Mod, Battery Tender, 4 Leaf Spring Pack, Rear Headrest Removal, Factory Tow Package (7 Pin) Rear Diff Mod, Taco Lean Mod, 2WD Low ECU.
    If u scotch locked a trailer kit that definitely can be an issue.
    12 volts means nothing like fish said.
    A single strand of wire will get you 12 volts but no amps to push it. Causing high resistance.
    If I have a trailer converter also I would be disconnecting the system to eliminate that part of it and do a real good visual. If you can't find anything in the back, work your way forward.
    Really check those sockets like fish suggested.
     
  8. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:12 PM
    #8
    Agent Smith

    Agent Smith Always outnumbered, never outgunned

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2010
    Member:
    #44197
    Messages:
    1,017
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    05 TRD Offroad Ivan Stewart Edition
    Toytec lift,FJ Anthracite wheels wrapped in BFG A/T 265/75/16's,WAAG Brush Guard, IPF 868's,sleeved fog lights
    Does that mean you spliced into the factory harness? If you did and moisture infiltrated the factory harness, guaranteed corrosion and the wires for several millimeters in each direction are going to have a green tinge to them. I'd start there.
     
  9. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:20 PM
    #9
    Fisheez

    Fisheez Built Ford Tough.

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2011
    Member:
    #52569
    Messages:
    300
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zack
    So Cal
    Vehicle:
    Tacomaless For Now
    ^^ If this is the case, snip off those exposed ends and solder them up nicely... With shrink tubing ofcourse :)
     
  10. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:23 PM
    #10
    Airun

    Airun [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2010
    Member:
    #33516
    Messages:
    2,640
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Aaron
    Show Me State
    Vehicle:
    TRD sport, DCLB, 4wd
    Debadged, custom emblem, Husky liners, custom bedrail Yak Trak setup with load bars, , BakFlip Fibermax, OME 3" lift with LightRacing UCAs
    Ya previous owner had scotch connectors done, so many potential weak spots. I'm gonna go ahead and pick up a bulb and see what happens and then continue to dig deeper as needed. I spent a good bit of time on the creeper tonight looking for obvious issues.

    Thanks for all the help guys. Greatly appreciated.
     
  11. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:27 PM
    #11
    Agent Smith

    Agent Smith Always outnumbered, never outgunned

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2010
    Member:
    #44197
    Messages:
    1,017
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    05 TRD Offroad Ivan Stewart Edition
    Toytec lift,FJ Anthracite wheels wrapped in BFG A/T 265/75/16's,WAAG Brush Guard, IPF 868's,sleeved fog lights
    And some dielectric grease
     
  12. Jan 14, 2014 at 4:30 PM
    #12
    Airun

    Airun [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2010
    Member:
    #33516
    Messages:
    2,640
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Aaron
    Show Me State
    Vehicle:
    TRD sport, DCLB, 4wd
    Debadged, custom emblem, Husky liners, custom bedrail Yak Trak setup with load bars, , BakFlip Fibermax, OME 3" lift with LightRacing UCAs
    good point
     

Products Discussed in

To Top