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Inner/Outer Tie Rods

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by pontoon, Mar 8, 2018.

  1. Mar 13, 2018 at 7:30 AM
    #21
    perchalot

    perchalot Well-Known Member

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    If 2 hours sounds like a lot to you I would definitely stick to your original plan of replacing tie rods and BJs only for now.

    I decided to use Proforged tie rods and BJs but it's worth doing your own research.
     
  2. Mar 13, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #22
    pontoon

    pontoon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn’t use Moog ball joints, was just thinking of using Moog tie rods. I’m currently thinking of using all 555 Sankei inner and outer tie rod ends and ball joints. I was going to get OEM ball joints but I think the savings and the decent chance the part is actually OEM is worth it to me. I did the same with Aisin parts and was happy with the part.

    Edit: I spoke with Low Range Offroad, and they seemed to think I'm OK with doing tie rods and ball joints and inspect things when I'm working on that. I'm getting all Sankei 555 parts for tie rods and ball joints.
     
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2018
    dborrer likes this.
  3. Mar 26, 2018 at 7:54 PM
    #23
    pontoon

    pontoon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just finished this job. I'm glad I got 555 Sankei inner/outer tie rods and upper/lower ball joints. I don't think the ball joints needed replacing in my case, but they weren't terribly expensive, and now it went from having minor wear (could turn by hand, no play) to brand new.

    Everything went reasonably smoothly. The hardest part was finding the space to get the right tools on the inner tie rod and rack to remove it. The de-staked washer also got in the way a little bit. I ended up getting it done though, using a clamp style inner tie rod tool (basically gave up on getting a wrench on the ITR since the shop I was using didn't have a good selection of wrenches). I found a little play in my steering rack (up and down, not left and right), not sure if it's normal, but it drives well. Does need an alignment very badly.
     
    tacofor4 likes this.
  4. Mar 26, 2018 at 9:57 PM
    #24
    ghs57

    ghs57 Well-Known Member

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    According to other posts here, three five (555), unless OEM Toyota, is not the same as OEM. Oem Toyota specs are not the same as the 555 aftermarket parts, although the parts are made by the same company (sankei). That’s part of the reason OEM is more expensive. The other part is that Toyota likes to make money.

    I have plenty of 555 (moog) parts on my truck, but I don’t recommend them because, after a year or so, I can see that they are not OEM quality.
     
    igno1tus and vettehigh like this.
  5. Mar 27, 2018 at 8:35 PM
    #25
    Gunrunner269

    Gunrunner269 Well-Known Member

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    MOOG = Sankei

    If you like spending extra money for a box with different brand printed on it then go for it. But it's literally the exact same parts.

    MOOG lower ball joints come in the same blue & orange plastic bags as Sankei & the ball joint will be stamped "Sankei 555 Made in Japan." It's the exact same part.

    The issues with them on the forum have been drastically overblown. The OEM ball joints suck, too. It's just a terrible design.
     
    El Taco Diablo and OneWheelPeel like this.
  6. Mar 27, 2018 at 8:40 PM
    #26
    Gunrunner269

    Gunrunner269 Well-Known Member

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    I run MOOG (Sankei 555) lower ball joints & tie rods on my truck. I installed them when I bought new tires. They are half the price of OEM & have a lifetime warranty. I grease them every oil change & plan on replacing them with new tires every 50-60k miles as preventative maintenance.

    The design is inherently bad & even OEM lower ball joints will not last.
     
    dborrer likes this.
  7. Mar 28, 2018 at 5:14 AM
    #27
    ghs57

    ghs57 Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much stock right now

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