Inside Frame Rust Proofing????

Re-route your AC line. I have just the smallest amount of rust on my frame right there with heavy applications of Fluid Film. I only recently relocated my AC line. That's where the water will come out if it drips on your frame so that's what is causing some of that.

 

I just bought my '14 about a month ago, so obviously the frame is brand new. for those guys who have applied fluid film, is there any prep work I would need to do as of now or I am able to just spray it right on the frame and inside of it?

 

Gotcha! And it is to be applied on both the inside & outside of the frame? Also, how much sufficient? 2 Gallons?

 

thanks! I rerouted my AC drain yesterday.. Hopefully I can sleep better from now one.

 

I apply it to my truck's frame twice a year, every 6 months. It takes me about 30mins to spray on 3 cans each time, without jacking the truck up or anything. So I figure I spend about 1hr a year in very easy labor (spraying a can) doing this. Doesn't really seem that labor intensive to me, for the protection I'm getting.

If you put it on thick enough it does last, if you spray till it's barely coated and stop then it doesn't last as well. I just checked my frame last night and it's been 5 months since I applied in early April. Guess what, fluid film still all over 90% of what I sprayed, and I've had it in mud a few times this summer where I had to really rinse the entire underside good with a power washer.

 

what about the recall , i got the letter calling my truck to be fixed of this rust issue ?

 

I agree just rinse your frame with a power washer, and let it dry first. That's the only prep work needed. It doesn't have to be sparkling clean like when painting or applying an undercoating that has to dry/cure. Also, the first time I sprayed my truck, I used 2 extra cans and sprayed one can up into the water drain holes on the bottom of the doors. I sprayed the other can inside the rocker panels by popping the rubber grommets out that run along the bottom of the rockers. I don't plan on re-spraying those areas since they are enclosed.

You can actually spray Fluid Film on wet metal and it will displace the water without trapping it. I still coat my truck when it's dry though. Their website makes that claim, and my friend who uses it where he works sprays it directly on salty wet snow plows with excellent results.

 

It's good stuff. Pricey. There are over 300 similar products on the market and all use on of the following to get the job done:

Oil based or acrylic resin
Zinc chromate
Aliphatic urethanes
Acid phosphatizers
Zinc-metal particles suspended in resin
Organic rust converters

My point is look at the MSDS and compare it to others. Some of the products are identical and one company may charge 5 times the price for the same stuff.

This... and it helps that it's environmentally friendly

From their own site:

"Agencies and companies such as the Department of the Navy at Pensacola, Sikorsky Aircraft, the U.S. Air Force in Georgia, the Naval Surface Warfare Center in Philadelphia, Boeing North American, and the U.S. Coast Guard at Miami and several other locations have done testing and approved the FLUID FILM product for the short term corrosion protection application. When the above were contacted, their unanimous opinion was that the FLUID FILM product provided the best short-term corrosion protection of all the environmental friendly materials tested."


Cost is also a factor. I did my entire frame in rust inhibitor for $16 in inhibitor, about $5 in cheap 1" chip brushes and $5 in spray bottles.

I'm sure fluid film works great when applied regularly, but I'm not going to clean my frame and apply it every month in winter. It also can't be top coated so my frame would still look like poop.

Personally if we went back in time to 2008 I would of driven my brand new truck off the lot and directly to a professional undercoating company.

Then apply fluid film...maybe

 

I had a similar issue, dealer offered to spray on the undercoating, I declined and did it myself. A good pressure wash, and scrape with wire brush, then the 3 step por15 and then 4 cans of fluid film once it had cured. looks great now, hopefully it will last. gonna keep spraying the film every fall

 

what's the best way to prep the inside of the frame? I'm assuming on the outside you want to remove the big flakes and get rid of as much of the outer coating before applying the eastwoods rust converter. Before spraying the inside of the frame did anyone do anything? Maybe air blasts or something to knock stuff loose?

 

DoorDing Just on the frame? or on control arms? where all do you apply it? Ill be doing it this fall

 

On anything that can rust.