Installation confusion about KB Voodoo rack and Diamondback SE.

Built up my new @KB Voodoo rack and went to install it on the truck. However ran into a few issues with install and I am stumped. I have a Diamondback SE and I did order the tonneau cover brackets too.

The front tonneau brackets want to interfere with the locking mechanism on the DB. So if I slide them rearward enough to clear the front locking mechanism, I need to slide the rear brackets aft the same amount. However, the rear bracket can't slide back far enough without interfering with silver lock rod striker brackets (where the rear locking mechanism attaches). I thought about cutting the rod short because there is a lot of material past the bolt hole, but it isn't enough.

So, to those of you who have installed a KB Voodoo / Max Modular rack and a Diamondback cover, what is my next step? I've seen the writeup by @Papadave418, but it was my assumption that his modifications were necessary only because of the sliding cargo tray.

 

Do you have a long rack on a short bed truck like mine? My front tonneau brackets are all the forward to the very end of the rails, then the locking bars slide into the rails just aft of the bracket. The rear brackets on at the factory bolt location. The DB handles might be in the way too. You can leave the locks alone, but might need to move the tie down handles

 

No I have a short bed rack. I checked and the issue really ins't the cleats, because I was able to dry fit things independently of the cleats and the only interference is the locking mechanisms.

 

I have the long bed version of the KBvoodoo rack so I cannot speak for the tail end, but the cab end can just have the locking bars adjusted on the diamondback. I have my tonneau brackets set as far towards the cab as possible with the rail caps out and the locking bars adjusted towards the tailgate.

I've also seen someone move the actual lock, but that was only required because of the bottom bars that come with the KBvoodoo shelving mechanism.

 

Ok so I just went out and looked at the truck again. The space between the rear locking bracket and the T-nut is a fraction of an inch. I think if I file down the back side of the T-bolt it can slide over the lock-rod rail and coexist there and be slid rearward until it touches the bolt that holds the bracket on. I am thinking that will do the trick but won't know until I file it down and try it.

 

Got a photo?

 

Yeah im curious too, didn't really have any issues with mine.

 

Ok so I was able to go out and grind down the T-nuts. This is the situation I was facing before grinding. The t-nut could not slide back rearwards enough because it was hitting the front of the tonneau bracket:
So I was able to grind down the T-nut to come up with this. The T-nut on the right is the modified version compared to the original dimensions on the left.
In the end I was able to slide the T-nut as far back as the nut that holds the tonneau bracket in place.

I am getting closer, but the rack still isn't far back enough to clear the front tie down cleat. What am I missing? If I use the bolt that holds the bed stiffener for the rear bracket, then I run into issues with the rear tie down cleat.

 

I moved my cleats. Also my T nut was able to slide in front of the aluminum bracket (in the rail) that catches the locking arm, weird yours wouldn’t?

 

It was close, I probably ground off more than I needed to. It looked like 1/16" or less would have done it. You have a long bed rack though right? I can live with removing the cleat but I don't want to have to drill new holes to relocate the locking mechanism. I think I have avoided that though by getting far back enough now. Hope to finally get this done today after work.

 

I have a long rack on a short bed, so I moved my cleats and plugged the holes with black bolts. You don’t need to move your locks, I moved only one due to the cargo tray support

 

Finally got everything installed. Was not as easy as I was thinking it would be (but I guess it never really is). First had to remove the front cleats, no issues. Then I still was not able to get enough clearance on the front passenger side tonneau bracket, because it was hitting the locking rod (the left and right are offset due to the way the mechanism works, so the passenger side rod is farther back). I needed to move the bracket forward. So after looking at it I realized the lock rod adjustments are maxed out all the way back. So I moved that forward to clear the bracket.

Next and final issue was the most perplexing. When I lifted the mount on top the rear two brackets were too far apart (left and right). No matter how hard I pushed and pulled the rack simply wasn't wide enough. So I had to put some washers in between the bracket and the rail. This moved the bracket inwards and gave me the space I needed:
All in all the rack looks good and I'm looking forward to mounting up my new RTT. @KB Voodoo, is it typically this difficult to install a rack? I did not anticipate this level of complexity to install the rack.

 

Absolutely not.

And you've still got something going on that isn't correct. The washers you added should not be necessary. What specific model of rack did you get?

 

Invoice email says:
MAX Modular TACO MAX 10" High Toyota Tacoma Bed Rack
SQ2631390
46" / Yes

I thought maybe the brackets were two different sizes, but I checked and all four were the same size. There were no directions / packing slips / any kind of paperwork included with my order by the way.

 

Measure the inside of the bed between the accessory rails. It should measure 56.5".

I remember you now. We emailed you the instructions a few days ago.

 

Just checked. Closer to 56.75" which would be pretty equal to the thickness of the washers I had to add.

 

Your bed may have spread a little bit. Personally, I would remove the washers and let the assembly pull the bed back together.

Unless you got longer bolts, you may not be getting proper thread engagement.

 

I still had enough thread engagement I did think of that, but I could get longer bolts to be safe. I tried to have the rack pull everything together but even with me and another guy we could get the rack on the outside of the bracket. I do have Total Chaos bed stiffeners installed and they lined up fine so I wasn't thinking the bed was out of shape.

 

Take the stiffeners off and let the rack stiffen your bed.

 

Permanently or just until the bed reshapes? I was under the impression that with the weight of the rack and its contents resting on the quarterpanels you'd need the bed stiffeners.