Installed 4.88 Gears in my 2016

For those of you that have installed the gear sets, how have you guys been liking them. Was it worth the $2k~ investment? I just installed 285's on my auto off-road and not really too impressed with the ride now. It's doable, but I live in Utah and constantly doing mountain passes and I'm pretty much driving in 4th on the freeway. Side note, anyone in Utah have recommendations for installers?

 

The problem with RP, and other synthetics, is that they're actually "too slippery". They don't pull the heat out of the gears as well as a non-synthetic. Motive Gear ran a test a few years ago running a gear set with internal sensors to monitor gear temps. They found that while synthetic fluids run at a lower temperature, the actual gears run hotter. This showed that the synthetic fluid didn't pull the heat out as well.

The primary benefit of synthetics is extended change intervals. We always suggest changing gear oil more often in a differential used offroad or for towing, so the need for extended change intervals isn't needed.

Instead of talking to the fluid manufacturers, look to the companies who make the gears and see what they recommend for your application. It honestly just makes sense to call the company that sold you $1000 gears to see what oil they suggest, rather than the company that's trying to sell you $15/qt oil and asking them if it's any good.

 

I was in the same position. Put 285/70R17s on a stock TRD OR. It was awful, always hunting for gears, couldn't hold 6th on the highway, not enjoyable to drive at all. The 4.88s totally fixed that. It's pretty much like stock again.

 

Manual says 5 or lower.

 

So I forgot to mention that I am in Jersey and the steepest thing i'll tow anything up is a highway overpass.... i wouldn't want to pull 6500 with a Tacoma in Colorado. I would definitely go tundra or more likely Super Duty. But for my around town flat hauling, I believe i'll be fine, and i think the 4.88's will help me a lot.

I'll let everyone know.

 

So I just had a reputable performance shop in the Philly area tell me that he called someone at East Coast Gears for parts and that 'he doesn't recommend it' and that the rear has 'all kinds of parts inside' and that 'they cant guarantee that they would be able to assemble it 'with the locker and all'

I showed him the kit on Nitro's site and he was like 'that's interesting; and then just kind of denied wanting to do it. Although the parts seem cut and dry to me. It almost seems like the east coast guy missed the kit being available, tried to build his own bearings and shims as piece parts, and then started to struggle, something about 'its too new'

Does East Coast Gears know what they are doing, or did the guy just not want the work, or is this more complicated than some are making it out to be?

 

ECGS knows their shit. They wouldn't sell it if it didn't work.

 

That is what I thought too. But what gives then?

 

They don't appear to have :

http://www.nitro-gear.com/GPTACO2016-4-88-8-75-p/gptaco2016-4.88-8.75.htm

On their website. I told the guy at the shop that I know this works people have done it and had success. They only have the older Tacoma gearset which is inline with what the guy told my shop guy, that it wont work.

 

Brother just installed 4.88 in his 2014 Tundra in Houston and the shop wouldn't touch Nitro Gears. They had a lot more experience with ECG than Nitro and preferred ECG bc of shimming. Honestly I would go with what ever gear that shop is most comfortable with to remove any unnecessary issues from installations. Returned the truck with 1 heat cycle ( 20 mins/ 20 miles of light driving) and required another heat cycle to harden the gear and then was good to go to 500 mile oil change for all the shavings.

 

That's weird. East Coast Gear Supply doesn't make gears. In fact, the only Toyota gears they seem to carry are from Nitro.

 

ECGS seems to just distribute the rings and pinions, and not the kit for Nitro. That doesn't make a lot of sense.

 

Sooo.. how necessary is changing gears if I went the larger 34/10.5/17
Would it screw up anything on the truck if i DIDNT get er done, other than mpg loss and less low end torque. How noticable is it really?
Could I keep the factory gears and recalibrate the spedoo n odometer possibly?
First truck here but im learning a ton, thanks guys

 

You don't need to do anything. If you want a truck that shifts less and has more power in the seat. Get gears.

 

Running stock gears with larger tires does put more load on the trans, and all the extra shifting isn't doing it any favors either.

 

Does anyone have their old 4.30 8.75" and 4.30 front ring and pinion laying around?

 

Got mine today! With Arb front locker!!

 

Nice! Getting pricing and debating on my gearing setup but for a 2013. I should do the locker up front but total cost prohibits after suspension, wheels and sliders.

 

Is it supposed to be this dirty? This is a year old fluid, from new 4.56 gears.

 

That looks like it has some moisture in it. Not the worst I've seen by a long shot, but it's good to replace that with nice fresh fluid.

Is this the first oil change, or did you change it at 500 miles on the new gears?