Installed ECGS Clamshell Bushing and NEW CV Axle But Still Have Vibrations :I

So for the past month and a half I have been dealing with a nagging vibration that starts around 1200-1500 RPMs whether I am accelerating, driving normally, decelerating, and even coming out of a turn. It sounds as if the truck is wavering and/or can't decide which gear to be in.

I did some research and suspected that it was my driver-side needle-rod bearing as well as a bad CV axle. First, the OEM bearing was originally suspected since its a common issue for Tacoma owners who lift their trucks and because I have wanted to swap the bearing for a more rigid bushing anyway. Second, the CV axle was suspect as well since I had a mishap during the install of my Fox Performance 2.0 coilovers and the CV boot was compromised (long story short: I jammed my swaybar into it while trying to relocate the bar and the CV axle began to fling grease all over my wheel well while driving after)

Therefore, for the above reasons, this past weekend I replaced the CV axle with a new one and swapped the OEM needle-rod bearing with the ECGS clamshell bushing. However, the vibration still continues.........

I'm not too disheartened by this because these modifications had to happen anyway, I am more confused as to what my issue is. Does anyone have the same issues or am I alone on this? Any suggestions to guide me in the right direction?

 

How many miles on the tires you have now? I'm assuming you've had the truck aligned since the install?

 

If you are getting it a 1200 to 1500 rpm regardless of speed it might not be a suspension problem

 

I'm guessing this started after a lift install.

 

These tires have roughly 10-12k on them.

To hit two birds with one stone; these vibrations did not occur immediately after the lift install which occurred in April of 2020, hence I did not get an alignment because it ran no problem. How much do alignments run you these days for a 3rd gen? Unfortunately, I do not have any buddies capable or tools necessary for an at-home job.

 

Alignment will usually run anywhere around $100

 

Anytime I have the front shocks removed I have the truck re-aligned, it's just one thing to eliminate after any suspension work has been done. Incidentally how long has it been since the last alignment?

After that is done I'd swap the tires front to back to see if anything has changed.

This is one of those things where you do one thing at a time and see if it works, if not on to the next thing.

Is the vibration in the steering wheel only or do you feel anything in the brake pedal too? Do you feel it in 4WD as well as 2WD?

 

Rpm is one thing but how fast are you going? There’s a certain speed that would either indicate tires or if too slow, rules out tires and is driveline. If and when you beat yourself up replacing everything and still have a dozen more “maybe it could be something else”, take it to a drive line specialist who can put it on rollers, computers and sensors and have them figure it out in a couple hours and tell you exactly what it is.
Don’t take it to a dealership that can’t ever duplicate the problem and your warranty won’t cover the diagnosis fees.

 

Previous alignment was done around 70k and Im rolling with 82k at the moment. Interestingly enough I don't feel any vibes through the steering wheel, it more so feels like its coming from either under or behind the driver and passenger seats. The vibrations in 4WD have gone away as well, suspect from the CV swap and bushing.

 

If you feel the vibration in the seat compared to the steering wheel, that is generally going to be driveline related. How much rear lift and what components did you use

 

Since it's not in the steering wheel it sounds like driveline vibration as Tacomabeast67 suggested.

 

It happens as I'm accelerating, roughly 70% of the time, so in between 5-30 mph. It never just comes out of the blue, I believe it has something to do with my lower gears since it only triggers under those rpm circumstances. I have also noticed that left-hand turns (from stop at an intersection, not banking at speed) and heavy traffic driving are other common situations where the vibrations come and go, it almost feels like its "hopping"

 

2" lift block with new extended square U-bolts to compensate

 

Did you add angle to the leaf spring lift blocks? Rule of thumb is 1 degree per inch of lift. Check the torque on the u-bolts to ~73 ft lbs.

 

I have not since the angles don't seem insanely harsh, is there a component for the angle or just an adjustment type of thing? I rolled under and messed around to find anything out of wack and there was not a ridiculous amount of play in the drive shaft.

 

Google: “pinion angle shims”, “angle shims”, etc. There are multiple vendors.

 

Is this required with lift blocks only, or does it apply to AAL's also? I'm having similar issues since my lift, however I have 1.5" AALs.

 

Carrier Bearing Front to Rear POV
Carrier Bearing Rear to Front POV
Front Differential U-Joint
Mid Driveshaft U-Joint
Rear Differential U-Joint
Suspect missing driveshaft balancing weight, located prior to the rear diff U-Joint

Images taken 11/24/2020

 

Does the upper shaft between the t-case and carrier bearing have a balance weight?

 

It can affect both since you're changing the angle either way. I'm curious if it's more prevalent on short bed configurations.

For the OP, have you checked the torque on your U-joint bolts, not the U bolts to the leafs.