Installed Firestone Ride Rite w/ Compressor

I installed my system today. Not to many hiccups, but took most of the day with all the "plumbing".

A few lessons learned:

1. Use both heat shields in kit on the passenger side, where exhaust is. The u-bend in pipe puts it next to air bag twice.

2. The four bolts holding the bottom of the upper frame bracket are a pain, as others have mentioned. Just take your time and you'll get them.

3. It is nice to have a 1-1/8" socket for the main (big) top bolt. Even so, holding the nut on the backside with a wrench, on the driver's side is a pain, as there are brake line brackets in the way.

4. I decided to mount my compressor and gauge/switch in the driver's side cubby in the bed. I won't use the compressor much, 90% time 10 psi, when towing boat, or hauling mulch, i'll up it as necessary. So, didn't feel the need to put gauge in cabin. Space it tight in cubby, as you can see with wires, relay and air lines. But, it all fits and works.

5. The cubby is fiberglass, so not the fibers when drilling holes. Also, it comes out easy, just unbolt.

6. My plan was to wire power along frame rail into cabin to an empty fuse in dash fuse box behind the coin holder (or whatever you call that little cubby). I bought a fuse tap, and was all ready to go. The problem, no power to the empty slots. Oh well, new plan, wire to fuse box in engine bay, I found a hot tap (always on) in there.

7. Supplied power wire wasn't enough, make sure you have some 16 gauge wire to spice in.

Now, for review. At 10 psi, I think I increased the rear height by 1 inch or so. I drove around a bit, didn't really notice any extra stiffness or rolling (i have one feed, split to 2 bags). This is what I wanted, not change in ride.

For the gauge, as I said, I think I have 10 psi. The gauge jumps all over. I found that you have to read the gauge as your filling, if you stop it reads way high. Also, pushing down on switch, to release air, just drops the gauge, but doesn't release air. I found that I have to push the switch half up to release air, then full up to "see" where I am with psi. Not the best by any means. I'll keep fiddling with it.

PM me if you are doing the install, and I'll answer any questions that I can.

 

can you do this now?

 

Stupid, just went through it all in my head and realized that I crossed the air lines coming out of the gauge. The one behind the switch goes to the compressor, the one behind the gauge goes to the t-fitting/air bags.

Oops, all good now, gauge works great, have about 8 psi in the bags now.

 

Don't forget to add remove spare tire to your list. I wasted over an hour before I did.

 

Good call.

Not easy to tell, but already dropped and out of the way in first pic.

 

Cool. I have to install mine before the winter hits.

One question:
When you run around at 5psi, does the rear end lift up any? I am running a stock DCSB and that thing is already a little tail high, so I'm wondering if I should get some sort of a spacer for the front end or set my 5100 Bilsteins at 1" or so to level it out.

 

Do those jack stands have a built in jack?

 

35.00 bucks at tool smith direct. Made by powerbuilt. They have a rep of leaking hydraulic all the time

 

From what I've read in other threads you really don't want to Tee the lines to the bags. This will allow the air to move from bag to bag when you're making turns.
As i see it, the bags want to be filled with air to compress when the bag is being compressed. With the Tee, your pushing the air into the other bag, which is pushing up and magnifying the body roll.
You could put valves between the Tee and the bags. Besides sealing the bags from each other, you could add more air to the drivers side to minimize the taco lean.

 

You're compressing one side in a turn. The air is free to move back and forth between the bags.
Think of it this way. you have a latex glove, and you blow it up and tie a knot in it like a balloon. Now when you squeeze the body of the glove what happens? The fingers get bigger. Take that same glove and twist a couple of fingers and then squeeze the main body of the glove. The blown up fingers that you've twisted do not get any bigger because the valve is closed.

Edit: just scanned that manual. I'm surprised they didn't isolate the bags from each other.

 

Just installed mine today with Daystar cradles. Used a T connection as well as this is the only method I’ve ever ran and was happy with it. Took about 3 hours. Hardest part was hacksawing the bump stops. I recommend a dab of oil on the nylon nuts so they screw on a bit easier.

 

I have had this on mine for 3 years now and I don't know how I would do without it.
One of the best mods you can do.
Who makes those red lines ?
I enclosed mine in loom to prevent chaffing.
Took both my fittings out of the license plate mounts.

 

I may do something to hide the red lines a bit more around the wheel wells. They came in my kit with the Firestone bags.

 

I think they look cool.

This is what I used to protect them.

$17 ZhiYo 50FT 3/8” Wire Loom Split Tubing Auto Wire Conduit Flexible Cover | High Temperature Heat Resistant -40F to 257F | Plastic Cover for Electrical Wires & Cables

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing...it+Tubing+3/8&qid=1567223706&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

I also used split loom as it seems a bit tougher than expandable mesh loom. I use that stuff for interior wiring. The red lines came with my ride rite kit.

 

I keep more air in the left air bag, because of the lean thing. Wouldn't work with a tee.

 

I second this. My driver bag consistently has 10-20% higher PSI than my passenger side to maintain the same level under varying loads (measured from hub center to fender on both sides).

 

Comes in handy for side/side leveling when camping too, you can deflate one and inflate the other to get ~3" of tilt.