Installed L2S and Yakima rack

Woohoo just what I was looking for and at a pretty decent price on eBay in comparison to the other website, made an offer that got accepted. Thanks for the link!

I think I will be leaving the brackets on but taking off my bars when not in use.

 

Anyone have a clue as to the weight capacity of the bed rails? I'm liking the L2S and would add some crossbars with a Baja Rack etc. Could the rail system hold 200-250 lbs??

Thanks for your input.

 

i wish i could get some brackets made up lie that but bend out over the bedrail then up so i could put the tonneau on still

 

No problem. L2S should be paying me dividends for endorsing their product! LOL By the way, you gonna post up pics when you get it installed? I would love to see it!

 

The Toyota cleats are rated at 220 lbs (each). Yakima 58 inch crossbars have a carrying capacity of 300 lbs distributed over 2 bars.

 

Do you not think this would still work? I had a look under my Truxedo tonneau, It LOOKS like the brackets would clear the tonneau rails, and if the tension was loosened off, you should be able to roll the cover back. For $99 from eBay, I think it would be worth a try. I am tossing the idea around in my head, perhaps in the new year.

 

I installed my L2S brackets a few weeks ago. I will take a picture soon and post. Its a pretty good set up although the only thing that concerns me is the thumb screws possibly coming loose after so much driving so I try to check them regularly. But so far so good.

 

I'm going with this setup on my truck too I think.

I have the Access Lorado tonnaeu cover and it looks like this will still work from what I can tell in the OPs pictures. There's just enough room for the bracket and flush bolt to clear under the tonnaeu mounts.

Then I'd just need to slide out the tie downs that have cross bars on them through the end of the Toyota channel system to roll my cover back closed.

I want to set it up for a couple bikes and throw a pair of the Yakima Highrollers on their.

 

Blue threadlocker is your friend.

 

If you take off the black thumb screw. The bolt has a socket head hidden under it. Then use an allen wrench and crank that baby in further.

 

Another option is the Inno rack

I love my Inno rack!

 

Another option is the Inno rack

I love my Inno rack!

 

just installed mine nice and easy.. but the thumb screws really dont hold the crossbars in there.. very easy to just grab the bar and turn it.. prob should have went with the thule square bars..

 

Hipster, did you end up doing this set-up yet? I plan on doing the same thing. I figure in the winter I'll put my snowboard rack and in the summer I'll put a baja rack.

 

I just got my L2S brackets in the mail today too. They're very sturdy pieces of steel. Good quality stuff.

I hate to hear that about the Yakima bars (or any round bars) spinning. I went with the Yakima bars as well. I guess we could drill a small hole into the crossbars where the thumb screw goes to prevent spinning. Any downside to doing this?

I'll get some pictures posted of my setup once I get it complete. I'm actually still looking for some 58" Yakima crossbars. I may fashion my own out of galvanized piping from HD if I can't find any reasonably priced Yakima bars.

 

Take off the black thumb screws. There's a socket head under it. Then use an allen wrench and tighten the screw down further. It will hold the crossbars much better.

 

You mean strip off the black plastic covering the head of the thumb screw? Is it glued on or just using compression to keep it on? Could I snip it off with some cable cutting pliers?

 

What will the end caps look like? Are they threaded or similar to the Yakima end caps that fit inside the pipe?

Threaded Cap


A pipe plug would work well and look nice. I'm not sure if HD has something like this.

 

When I did this, I first tried drilling all of the way through with a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, and screwed the screw through the entire bar. It kept the bar from spinning, of course, but soon the screw was loose enough in there (because the wall of the bar is thin) to allow it to wobble, which bugged me.

So next I just drilled (with the same bit) a dimple into the bar (there is a rubberized coating, then the actual steel) and screwed the thumbscrew into that (I also removed the thumbscrew caps and tightened with an allen wrench). I used blue threadlocker as well.

Now, no wobble and no loosened screws.

 

Yeah, it is just snuggly pressed over the socket head. use a pair of needle nose pliers and pop the black cap off.