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Installed LED turns, keeps blowing 10A Tail fuse

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by JSO, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. Jan 24, 2017 at 10:30 AM
    #21
    JSO

    JSO [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2016
    Member:
    #202764
    Messages:
    72
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Shane
    Jax, FL
    Vehicle:
    2016 TRD Off Road DCSB 4x4
    3” lift, 285 K02’s Morimoto Elite HID swap with yellow LED fogs This
    Have checked everything, and I wouldn't be spending this much time on LED's if I didn't really like it. Have done this mod on essentially every vehicle I've owned. This one is simply the first that shares a bulb for DRL and front turn signal.

    I have zero intention of returning to stock, I just spent a boat load on a retrofit projector and HID setup, and the entire truck including interior has already been converted to LED. This ONE bulb is the troublemaker.
     
  2. Feb 21, 2017 at 7:36 PM
    #22
    Mireland7

    Mireland7 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2016
    Member:
    #201558
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2014 Silver DCSB
    Larger sized off road tires with Moto Metal rims, Kenwood DVD receiver
    I was wondering if you ever figured out what the issue was? I recently added Auer LED DTRL (underneath the headlight assembly) , upgraded the front and back turn signals with LED (and resistors afterwards), under the hood LED strip with a pressure switch, and finally auxiliary pod lights under back bumper tied into trailer reverse lights. I've also got a couple other projects waiting to be finished as well but they were never hooked up. I now have the issue of normal blinkers with my dash, clock/airbag, and aftermarket DTR lights flashing simultaneously when I have no lights (except the DTRL), or "Toyota DTRL" on. Then when I turn my running or headlights on my turn signals in the front stay on but don't blink and the rear hyper blink even with inline resistors. Everything except for the DTRL, and the resistors have been un-wired and wires were returned to normal...minus the puncture from the posi-tap connectors I like to use. I've double checked all of my connectors, so I know that's not the case. I'm thinking its a grounding issue, I'm just trying everything before I break out the multi meter. I know that's a time consuming project and I just haven't had the time to dedicate to it. Any help on this would be awesome, thanks

    LED DTRL.jpg
     
  3. Feb 22, 2017 at 8:06 AM
    #23
    tgear.shead

    tgear.shead Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2015
    Member:
    #162276
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    Ok, little bit of important information regarding LED lights;

    1) The blinker system is designed with the electrical load of an *incandescent bulb* in mind.
    2) LED's actually consume considerably LESS power than incandescent bulbs.
    3) In order to *not burn out*, you need to regulate the power that runs through the LED bulb, by hooking up an appropriate resistor with it in SERIES.
    4) In order to fool the blinker, you need to add a greater electrical load to the system so that it has the same load as an incandescent bulb, this is done by hooking up a resistor in PARALLEL.
    5) Because of the parallel resistor to fool the blinker, you are negating the only advantage that the LED bulb actually offers; power savings.

    Now here is the thing about the parallel resistor used to fool the blinker; if that resistor allows too much current to pass, it can actually exceed the allowable current on the circuit and blow the fuse.

    SOME TIMES, LED bulbs may have the parallel resistor actually built into them, which means that adding an additional resistor would cause an EXCESSIVE load on the system.

    The best way to set up LED bulbs, is to either modify the blinker to match the lower current of the LED bulbs, OR, replace the blinker with a digital blinker like this; https://www.amazon.ca/3-Pin-CF-13-Electronic-Flasher-Signal/dp/B008C9YJ6C
     

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