Installing 3" front/2" Rear lift kit on 2016 TRD & shop says shocks wont work?

Question is this, so do I need new shocks with 2 inches of lift and if so did I need them anyway because the oems are not good.

Also if used off-road what is the difference between the kit that I have and any other kit in terms of how it will affect the vehicle's performance or what will break or why what is it about this kit that is any different from a high-end kit what can be done to improve it or what is it that a more expensive kit would have that this one doesn't have I'm just trying to understand what this kit doesn't have, I'm just trying to understand it all

 

With the rear blocks, they can develop axle wrap, which causes a rough ride. Without longer rear shocks, you can over extend the OEM ones, damaging them.

For the front, the spacer lift pushes the shock down. When you hit a big bump and push the tire up into the wheel well, you'll use your shock instead of your bump stop to limit your uptravel. This can snap the bottom of your shock off, leading to it needing replacement and potentially damaging other stuff.

Keep in mind this is off road. Strictly on road and you'll most likely be fine.

 

Your second question is pretty loaded. I recommend searching around on tacomaworld and google researching suspension types.

I also recommend looking up filthy motorsports on YouTube and watch the shock overview video, he goes over different types

 

So this rear axle wrap. Isnt it true this only occurs while off road ?
And the shock issue can be corrected with shock extensions or longer shocks?

In the front, isnt this spacer that goes over the top of the coil a pretty common way to raise the front?

Is there any way to improve upon this kit that I have now that it's installed already?

 

Occurs during torque load due to spring over configuration. I wouldn't install stock extensions.

I wouldn't consider it common but it is cheap.

No way to improve it without a full replacement.

 

First off, I also don't recommend shock extensions or spacer lifts, but he was looking for a solution. 2nd, i would email the company you bought lift from, ask if can be returned, and maybe go with bilstein 5100 front and rear, and maybe add a leaf for the rear if your funds allow. This would be next step up, and a better set up. Installation will cost more, but in the end it will be a better setup. No matter what you end up doing, you will still need an alignment after. There are tons of people that do not visit this forum, and some that do who have spacer lifts, diff drops, spacer lifts on top of coilovers etc. No matter what you decide on good luck.

 

Thanks, I never gave any thought to the front shocks, My shop never said they had any concern about those but as I think about it, I raised the front 3" so wouldn't that affect the front shock just as much as the rear? Wonder why they only mentioned having concerns about the rear?
So does installing the spacer in the front also increase the need for a longer shock or more travel?

 

and as to the axle wrap, with these blocks in the rear is there anything that can be done or used in combination with it to prevent the axle wrap? Maybe a flat extra like overload spring or something to stabilize it?

 

Finally, last post. Rather than use the differential drop hardware and stuff sent with the kit, is it better to use those wedge shaped shims in the leafs, is that a better way to go to correct drive line errors?

 

@HeadStrong Off-Road he needs your help

 

No, not necessarily. To "fix" the front, you have to space your bump stops down a couple inches, but I don't know of any way to do this. the proper way to lift the front is to get a longer coil, and match it with a longer shock. Then you have everything working in sync during the full range of motion. A popular budget option is Bilstein 5100s paired with Old Man Emu (OME) coils. I have ran this on two separate trucks and it rides like stock.

Not that I'm aware of. A 2" AAL from Wheelers Offroad is ~$78 and you wont have that issue. You'll also increase your carrying capacity a little bit.

This is the ultimate way to correct driveline angles. You have to measure your specific truck and use a combo of axle shims and carrier bearing spacers to bring it all back to spec.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-by-step.244535/

 

what exactly is a 2" AAL?? What does that stand for, Im new dude. LOL

 

when you say I need to space my bump blocks down a few inches but your not sure how, let me ask and comment. It looks to me when looking at the front bump blocks, its wasy to space them down, they unscrew with a nut on the backside, looks like there would be a way to space them down and put a steel spacer in the between them but my question is why? seems like putting the spacer over the top of the coil would make the front end harder to bottom out and further from the bump block that it was when it was stock? I dont get it??

 

It's a 2" add a leaf. You add a leaf to your rear leaf springs and that provides you with some lift.

That's exactly why you want to space it down. Otherwise you'll fully compress your shock, and your bump stop will be no where in site. Your wheel will want to continue to travel upwards, but your shock won't want to compress anymore. This can result in breaking the shock.

The yellow thing is the shock and should be in a straight line.

 

Ohhhh that hurts to lookk at!!!