Installing 5100's without a Spring Compressor Video

You have to put leverage downwards on the LCA enough so the bolt doesn't have the pressure of the coilover pushing down on it. BEFORE doing this, have the UCA bolt to spindle disconnected and still have the 3 upper shock mount bolts tight. Might help

Just make sure you dont let the spindle flop around and tear your abs line or brake line, Tie it up to UCA with multiple heavy zip ties or bungee cord

 

So I need to disconnect the bolt that attaches the UCA to the spindle as well? I hadn't done that yet. Is the bolt up by the UBJ? Or is it down from that?

 

Combatman, try taking a picture of:
1) the whole area (i.e. everything inside the wheel well)
2) the bottom half of the shock/strut (i.e. where the bolt is giving problems)
3) the top half of the shock/strut

This might help others see what you are up against?

 

Here's what I did last week on my 1996:

-Put truck on jack stands
-Remove wheel
-Jack up bottom of control arm about 1 inch.
-Remove top bolt, plate, and bushing from sway bar link
-Remove four bolts to drop lower ball joint from knuckle
-Remove tie rod end from knuckle (have a new cotter pin ready for this castle nut when you reassemble)
-Remove top nut, plate, and bushing from top end of strut
-Lower jack slowly
-Push gently down on control arm to confirm that it will drop enough to take tension off the spring. If it will not drop far enough, loosen alignment cam bolts.
-While gently removing tension by pushing down on control arm with foot, unscrew the bottom bolt that holds the strut. I could not get it to come out unless I found that magic point of release. I used a box end wrench on the head of the bolt and a crescent on the nut back behind.
-Once bolt is out, remove the strut and spring.
-Remove bushing and plate from top of strut if you plan to reuse them

Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

Will do, I'm at work now though, so It won't be till later tonight

 

It could be complicated I guess, especially since I have a 2005 and you a 1996, idk what that suspension looks like. But either way, you should get this tool:

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...rchTerm=pitman

pitman/tie rod end puller. Get the correct size to fit. It makes disconnecting the UBJ from the spindle one million times easier. Hammering it til it just vibrates loose sucks

 

Sorry, thats a mobile link. This link!
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...er-ac3370/10449354-P?searchTerm=pitman+puller

 

Is it the same size as the one to pull the LBJ? If so I already have that tool

 

I never pulled the LBJ, but probably. Its so useful

 

You do not have to pull either ball joint to get the 5100s on. See my directions above. I unbolted the lower ball joint on one side before I realized it didn't have to come out. If you unbolt the sway bar end and the tie rod end, then pull the four bolts to drop the lbj away from the knuckle, you will see that the control arm will flex down enough to get the old strut out and the new one in.

 

This is why I am not understanding what the problem is? It sounds as if everything is "loose" (i.e. spring and all), but he simply can't get the bottom bolt out for some reason I'm out of ideas at this point? His suspension sounds like it is very similar to mine, a 1998, with the only problem I am experiencing at the moment are seized cam bolts. Now they're being soaked with PB Blaster and will attempt again this weekend to loosen them. Either way, it will be interesting to finally find out what Combatman's issue is with that bottom bolt???

 

I didn't have to loosen the cam bolts either, although I did loosen one before I realized that. I was able to push down on the control arm enough to take the pressure off the strut. The bolt was really sticky until I hit a magic point of push on the control arm where the tension released and the bolt at the bottom of the strut came undone more easily.

 

I will see if I can hit that magic point when I get home, maybe that's the only problem I'm running into (I really hope so). If that doesn't work I'll get some pictures up

 

As you can see the spring is completely loose from the assembly, so it's not putting any pressure on it anymore, but I still can get that bolt to come out at all

 

Bolt might just have rust holding it in. Spray with some WD-40, then use something hard and flat and hit it out with a hammer.

 

So the problem is just that you cannot get the nut off the bolt?

Can you get the bolt and nut to turn, or will the whole thing not move at all?

I would try penetrating oil. Heat if that doesn't work.

If it will turn, get a wrench on the castle nut and let it rotate until the handle of the wrench is against V of the control arm. Then put a long breaker bar on the head of that bolt and give it hell.

 

Naw I got the nut off of it, I only put it back on so I don't mess up the threads while I pound on it.

It's currently soaking in WD40 so we'll see how that turns out. Thanks for all the help!

 

He was able to get the nut off, but the bolt is spinning inside the bushing and it doesn't want to "slide out". He even tried heating it and pounding on it. I told him to put the nut back on just enough so when he hits it with the hammer it won't jack-up the threads on the end of the bolt. Just soooo odd with what he is dealing with And yeah, very, very similar if not the exact same suspension setup as my 1998. It looks very similar!!!

Good luck and keep the updates coming. This is interesting on what is going on... at least for me it is

 

Now kinda lost , someone bring me up to speed please...

Which nut &/or bolt is giving all the grief ??

 

The bottom bolt!!! It is spinning inside the bushing and it won't push/pound out!!!??? He's even tried heating it and still no go?