Installing 5100's without a Spring Compressor Video

Yeah, it turned out it was frozen to the metal inner sleeve, which made it bend the whole mount when I pounded it. So I got a partner to help hold my spindle and sawzall the bolt. We were able to finally cut it.

I hope you have better luck than me with yours, if it's just seized to a rubber bushing hopefully it won't be so bad. I would caution against spraying the bolt while it's red hot. Sounds like a way to start a fire:/ I just heated mine up till it was very hot then cranked on it with a wrench till it started turning. Your results may vary though.

That sucks you have to drive an hour to get to your truck, I prefer working in small increments till I get the job done which I bet would be hard if it was an hour away. Good luck man with your bushings though man

 

Yeah, I thought about the possible fire causing part as well I was asking only because I was watching a u tube video, actually quite a few, and remembering someone... somewhere... talking spraying it after you heat it up. On the actual can itself, it's not really all that clear on the "how hot". Anyways, yeah, I guess just use the common sense part of it. You know, I'll just heat the bolt/nut up first and do it that way, just like you did. I'll leave the spraying part out as a last alternative, but... only spray when warm. My issues are the LCA cam bolts.
Well, thanks for the good lucks... as I appreciate it very much so
Told you that pics might help Glad you were able to finish your work. Take care, c-ya around the forum, and happy 4whln bud.

Thanks to everyone else as well, such as Dragons, 4WD, evvvvery one!!! Good night all!!!

 

Dude, NEVER spray any kind of aerosol on a hot object,that shit can easily "flash" on you , even water turns into a blast of super heated steam if the surface is hot enough ,, & you want to heat the CAM adjusters ? So let me guess , is it the pass.side rear inner LCA thats froze ? Or are both ?? anyway you want to heat the outside surface of where the threads disappear into the CAM , you're just trying to expand the metal around the threads to release the seize heat it evenly but def. not cherry red. those CAMS are alum/alloy with a threaded insert I think & don't use MAPP gas , too hot , decent LP with a good tip is plenty..

 

Wanted to see real quick if you or someone else replied before I leave. I got your message and will buy a propane can. Also, yeah, I kinda figured like I was saying just above I won't be doing "cherry red" myself. I will say this, I didn't know that they were alum/alloy? Some of these u tube vids I watch and "examine" them, if you will. Trust me, I'll be using my common sense as I do this. I'm telling you though, some of these u tube people scare me with what they do. I was watching cr & drvr (I think it was them) and a spring compressor "exploded on them". And they're supposed to be "experts" Another guy was using spring compressors and they were ALL contorted and just waaaaaiting to SNAP!!! Anyways...

Yes, you are right, it is the inner nut, but I only attempted the driver side first and never touched the pass side. I can only assume that the pass side inner nut is froze as well for now. I will be finding out tomorrow. I will check back in tomorrow just to see what has been updated. Sucks that I've never had to deal with seized bolts/nuts and am glad that you guys are "teaching me".

Anyways, ready to leave for my sisters house... btw, I help her take care of our mom who had a stroke a while back and is basically paralyzed on the right-side, for the most part. So I work M-F, S-S help take care of my/our mom. Leave for work Mon morning and start all over again... Sorry for off-topic, just saying...

Anyways, thanks 4WD!!! I appreciate it very much so!!!

 

No worries, & God bless for looking after Mom, I did that for a few years as well...

 

No problem, I'll be around, especially since I still have to do the other side, which I'm sure is probably froze too, but I'll hope for the opposite of that.

I usually don't give out too much advice on here as I'm just learning as I go myself, but I'll definitely keep an eye on this thread, as I've learned quite a but here already. I appreciate all the knowledge everyone has shared!

 

So I have a new problem, I got my new 5100 and eibach in place, now even when I jack the control arm up to a point that it's lifting the truck the strut won't come through the top hat far enough to thread with the bushing in there. There are threads through, just not enough. Anyone else have this problem?

 

Haha, yeah I've had this happen before & I've heard that happening with Eibachs too, you may need someone to lay across the side you're working on , no shit...

 

That works well enough? Just some extra weight? I ended up just going out and buying some flat rubber washers to make it about half the thickness of the bushing to put on for now, but I'll have to try and fix that next time I have help. Thanks, I thought maybe the inner and outer bushings were different sizes and I'd have to do the whole thing over:/

 

Went to Home Depot first thing in the morning to get a propane bottle and a few other items. The only LCA cam bolt I had an issue with was the driver-side rear LCA cam bolt. I had to heat it up a few times and try moving it. Finally saw movement, let it cool a bit and then sprayed the PB Blaster on a bit, let it sit for a couple minutes... just continued this process and finally "cracked" it open The crappy part, I lost my marks for that rear cam bolt and now my alignment is WAAAAAY out. Wasn't much I could do and didn't get too pantie twisted about it. I was just happier than a clam that I was able to loosen the cam bolt and not have to go the more drastic route Yeah, it was on there pretty good and DREAD the next time I have to deal with seized bolts At least I have an idea on how to approach them now and have learned do's/don'ts from you guys. Thank you guys. Now I have to see how bad my alignment is out

On to the next "project". Also, I finally took some pictures of my truck and will be posting them in my "inbox" or whatever the heck it is called for my "gallery". Anyways...

btw, I painted the coils red... just to do it. Putting make-up on a pig, I guess Anyways, I like it as it goes with the white very well. Take care people.

'73
and happy 4whln guys/gals

 

My brother and I used this way and it worked fine. Mistakes can be dangerous so take your time. Also there's another video out there on YouTube that is better in my opinion. The guys says it took him 20 minutes...heh, give yourself more time.

 

I just did this a couple days ago with my new 5100's and brand new coils. I honestly felt safer doing it this way than using those cheap A** rental spring compressors. Those things are widow makers. At least if you do it in the truck, the lip on the top hat will hold the spring in place, also the UCA (if still connected to the ball joint) blocks the spring from flying out at you. I installed the 5100's at the 2.5" max setting and only had to compress the spring a little bit with the floor jack under the lower ball joint assembly to get the rubber bushing and washer on top and screw on the new locknut, no sweat. Needed a second hand to slowly work the jack up as I guided the shaft of the shock through the center hole in the top top hat. I suggest doing this only if you are a confident mechanic, otherwise take the whole strut out and take it to a shop with a wall mount spring compressor.

 

Hey, have a 2005 Tacoma and the last very amateur alignment guy said the front passenger LCA cam was frozen. Been spraying with PB blaster and gonna take to a better alignment guy. If he can't get it, you guys think just heat with a torch and try and loosen it?

 

I have a 2001 Tacoma Double Cab 2wd. I found the same video on youtube and decided to do this the change out my strut mounting upper hardware/rubber donut due to really bad creaking for weeks.

I can tell you, this worked fine and safe. Not smooth or quick for me, but ultimately it worked out.

Some of you, like me, had issues with the strut shaft not protruding far enough out from the upper strut mount. I fixed this by putting only the strut washer and nut on the shaft, held the top of the center shaft with a pair of vice grips, and started threading the nut/washer down with an open end wrench. This slowly pulled the shaft upward about another inch, exactly what I needed. Hope that helps some of you.

 

This may seem like a stupid question.. but is it ok to use a bottle jack to jack the LCA? I don't have a floor jack and blew all my money on parts so I can't go grab one. Just seeing if its safe with the jack I have. Thanks

 

I would strongly not suggest that. Do not take the risk. That is a formula of disaster in so many different ways. Borrow a floor jack from a neighbor or a friend

 

Definitely would not. Borrow a floor jack from someone.

 

I figured as much. Just found a nice older one on Craigslist for a good deal. Will have the right tools for the job now!

 

Good deal . It's better to work smarter then take the riskiest decision that could affect your life

 

You bet! Glad I looked into a floor jack