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Installing a top plate?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 503TRD, Sep 30, 2011.

  1. Sep 30, 2011 at 5:00 PM
    #1
    503TRD

    503TRD [OP] Trucker

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    Chad
    Tualatin, Oregon
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    Front Bilstein 5100's Set @ 2.5", Rear Bilstein 5100's, Rear TSB, Rear 1.5" ToyTec AAL, 1" CB Drop Kit, N-Fab Nerf Steps, WeatherTech All Weather Rubber Floor Mats, Grillcraft Grill(Upper/Lower), Blacked Out AC Condenser/Radiator, Tinted Front Windows, Vision X H4 SuperWhite Headlights, Halo H10 Solaris Yellow 45w 3000k Fog Lights, K&N Air Filter, Removed Front Mud Flaps, 18" MagnaFlow Muffler, Chrome Exhaust Tip, TRD Logo Leather Shift Knob, LED License Plate Lights, LED Interior Lights, LED Reverse Lights, LED Auxiliary Reverse Lights, Chrome TRD Badge on Tailgate, Redline Tuning Elite Hood Struts, Disabled Seatbelt Chime, Foglights Anytime, ScanGauge II, 13" Stubby Antenna, Flyzeye Design LED Light, Cobra 19 CB Radio/Firestik II Antenna, 18x9 Raceline Raptors, LT275/70/18 Hankook Dynapro ATm, 1.25" Sidertrax Wheel Spacers, Heated Front Seats, LED Tailgate Bar, 11" Double Row LED Bar Behind Grill
    I have my front 5100's set at 2.5, and I have two 1/4" toytec top plate spacers, i want to maybe put those on(I know not recommended) and see how it looks(I have a slight rake) and rides, and I read somewhere that it's easy to pop in a top plate and see how it rides and then take it out, so is there a tutorial on how to install a top plate? or how easy is it? And would I need to re-align it if I tried this.


    Thanks
     
  2. Sep 30, 2011 at 7:42 PM
    #2
    503TRD

    503TRD [OP] Trucker

    Joined:
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    Chad
    Tualatin, Oregon
    Vehicle:
    '10 4x4 DC TRD Sport
    Front Bilstein 5100's Set @ 2.5", Rear Bilstein 5100's, Rear TSB, Rear 1.5" ToyTec AAL, 1" CB Drop Kit, N-Fab Nerf Steps, WeatherTech All Weather Rubber Floor Mats, Grillcraft Grill(Upper/Lower), Blacked Out AC Condenser/Radiator, Tinted Front Windows, Vision X H4 SuperWhite Headlights, Halo H10 Solaris Yellow 45w 3000k Fog Lights, K&N Air Filter, Removed Front Mud Flaps, 18" MagnaFlow Muffler, Chrome Exhaust Tip, TRD Logo Leather Shift Knob, LED License Plate Lights, LED Interior Lights, LED Reverse Lights, LED Auxiliary Reverse Lights, Chrome TRD Badge on Tailgate, Redline Tuning Elite Hood Struts, Disabled Seatbelt Chime, Foglights Anytime, ScanGauge II, 13" Stubby Antenna, Flyzeye Design LED Light, Cobra 19 CB Radio/Firestik II Antenna, 18x9 Raceline Raptors, LT275/70/18 Hankook Dynapro ATm, 1.25" Sidertrax Wheel Spacers, Heated Front Seats, LED Tailgate Bar, 11" Double Row LED Bar Behind Grill
    Thanks, do you know if I will need longer studs? It's only the 1/4" thick(taco lean) spacer.

    Also, got a picture and like a mark to show exactly where to put it? Or just plop it in between the shock and tower..

    Thanks
     
  3. Sep 30, 2011 at 7:45 PM
    #3
    Zombie Runner

    Zombie Runner Are these black helicopters for me?

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    Kevin
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    oil change...
    your the only one that will know if you will ned longer studs once you get it apart. also as soon as you unbolt the 3 bolts on top you will know where it goes...haha

    just lift up the truck, remove tire, disconnect sway bar from spindle (will allow suspension to move more easily), remove 3 bolts on top of coilover and slide in the top plate spacer, put everything back together.
     
  4. Sep 30, 2011 at 8:02 PM
    #4
    503TRD

    503TRD [OP] Trucker

    Joined:
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    Chad
    Tualatin, Oregon
    Vehicle:
    '10 4x4 DC TRD Sport
    Front Bilstein 5100's Set @ 2.5", Rear Bilstein 5100's, Rear TSB, Rear 1.5" ToyTec AAL, 1" CB Drop Kit, N-Fab Nerf Steps, WeatherTech All Weather Rubber Floor Mats, Grillcraft Grill(Upper/Lower), Blacked Out AC Condenser/Radiator, Tinted Front Windows, Vision X H4 SuperWhite Headlights, Halo H10 Solaris Yellow 45w 3000k Fog Lights, K&N Air Filter, Removed Front Mud Flaps, 18" MagnaFlow Muffler, Chrome Exhaust Tip, TRD Logo Leather Shift Knob, LED License Plate Lights, LED Interior Lights, LED Reverse Lights, LED Auxiliary Reverse Lights, Chrome TRD Badge on Tailgate, Redline Tuning Elite Hood Struts, Disabled Seatbelt Chime, Foglights Anytime, ScanGauge II, 13" Stubby Antenna, Flyzeye Design LED Light, Cobra 19 CB Radio/Firestik II Antenna, 18x9 Raceline Raptors, LT275/70/18 Hankook Dynapro ATm, 1.25" Sidertrax Wheel Spacers, Heated Front Seats, LED Tailgate Bar, 11" Double Row LED Bar Behind Grill
    ^^yep the second link is the one I have. Alright well thanks guys, I may try doing it this weekend!
     
  5. Oct 1, 2011 at 10:04 AM
    #5
    drifter

    drifter moderately modded

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    [threadjack]

    I took my truck in to a shop to have OME 880's/Nitro's installed. The guy had a heck of a time installing the OME struts, and I think the reason was because he didn't remove the sway bar.

    [/threadjack]
     
  6. Oct 1, 2011 at 10:12 AM
    #6
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    20 minutes???

    per side maybe... that if youve done it a few times...

    you need to take the front skid off, take the front sway bar loose, the bottom shock bolt and the 3 on top of the shock. drop the shock almost out so you can pop on the spacer and then put everything back together


    OP you wont need longer studs...as long as you are running stock top plates. i cant tell you otherwise
     
  7. Oct 1, 2011 at 10:16 AM
    #7
    Yoytoda

    Yoytoda The Little Truck That Could

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    Roland
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    completely stock
    you need to remove the sway bar to make it easier. You cant just "slide the plate in" you have to drop the shock (if hes using stock top plates) since the top plate crowns up. you wont be able to get the spacer over the crown without dropping the shock almost out
     

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