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Installing Airbags advice

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by forana, May 19, 2015.

  1. May 19, 2015 at 4:29 PM
    #1
    forana

    forana [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok so I've read everything here on installing airbags on my DCSB TRD 4x4. I'm not super confident on the install so looking for any advice. I have the kit and also the daystar cradles.

    I already asked about jacks and jack stands. I still have to pick up jack stands, I plan on the 6-tons.

    Couple of questions.

    1. Correct me if I am wrong: I should jack stand the frame and not axle for more room to install airbags.
    2. do you think I can get away with bottle jack and blocking for jacking? I know not ideal but I'm trying to avoid buying a floor jack.
    3. I have flex ratchet extensions
    4. anything else?

    Thanks for the help in advance.
     
  2. May 20, 2015 at 11:16 AM
    #2
    forana

    forana [OP] Well-Known Member

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    aww man?
     
  3. May 20, 2015 at 4:22 PM
    #3
    Rx7turbo2

    Rx7turbo2 Well-Known Member

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    Life will be a lot easier with a floor jack.

    I jacked up the rear of the truck with a floor jack.
    Placed jack stands on the frame of both sides of the truck.
    Then I can use the floor jack to manipulate the axle up and down making the install easier.

    It's really a pretty easy job. It's finicky because it's hard to get at some stuff but it's not very difficult at all.
     
  4. May 20, 2015 at 4:34 PM
    #4
    wsurunner

    wsurunner Well-Known Member

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    Your stock Toyota jack is designed to lift the frame high enough for full suspension droop when changing a tire, so you should be able to get the height you need by using the truck's jack at the jack points on either side of the frame just forward the rear wheels. It will take more time and be more tedious than a floor jack, but will get the job done.

    Install is pretty straightforward, as Rx says. Easier with the wheel off/out of the way but I've heard of some who didn't bother to take the wheel off and were still able to get it done.

    One small tip if you're using the Air Ride kit... There's a u-bolt that holds the bottom bracket in place. That u-bolt hangs down below the leaf spring and passes through a u-channel flat bracket and is then secured by locknuts. That u-channel bracket is designed to face up. Instinctively (and under the influence of beer and not a lot of brain power) I installed it upside down, but the bracket is too narrow and prevents the nut from tightening down all the way.

    Good luck!
     
  5. May 20, 2015 at 7:34 PM
    #5
    Jefes Taco

    Jefes Taco Well-Known Member

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    I put the stands under the axle closer to the 3rd member. I didn't cut the bumpstops, I loosened the U-bolts and removed the entire unit. Less time and easier. But, you're installing the cradles so this may not apply. The bracket doesn't center the bags. This is weird but normal. Follow the instructions, it's not too difficult.
     
  6. May 21, 2015 at 2:47 PM
    #6
    forana

    forana [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey this is great info guys. Thanks

    Jefes, you had enough room in there with the axle jacked?
     
  7. May 24, 2015 at 6:53 AM
    #7
    hotrod53

    hotrod53 Well-Known Member

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    Weathertech floor liners moded to hold OEM floor mats, weathertech vent visors, Toyota bed mat, LEER 100XL cap, hood gasket mod to stop whistling.
    Also pay attention to the instructions on how the top clamp mount goes. To me it didn't seem right but after the fact it was. You will also look at these air fittings and say there is no way this will not leak, but in 100k on my truck they didn't. You will want to keep your lines separate too, do not tee them together. It will keep the air from shifting side to side creating body roll.

    I had enough room with my floor jack lifting it, no problem.
     
  8. May 25, 2015 at 7:10 AM
    #8
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    Put the stands on the frame, take off the wheels and remove the spare. Work smarter, not harder. You will run into minor difficulties. Don't sweat it. It won't take terribly long and you'll be happy with the bags when you're done.

    Here's a pic of where I routed my valves.

    [​IMG]
    Easy to get to and they are out of the spare tire area. My original location had the spare contacting the hoses in a manner which would have eventually kinked the hoses.
     

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