Installing Bilstein 5100s with floor jack method

You got me curious. My stock 2021 measures 20.75 inches from middle of hub to bottom of black fender flare. Same on both sides exactly (full tank of fuel).

 

I am also running 265/70/17s. I am not sure what my stock numbers were but the 23 inches even was with the 5100s at the 3rd setting 1.1 I think. 23.5 and 25 are after bumping up to the 4th setting and adding the AAL in rear

 

I don't think you were being a dick.
If explaining why something suggested will not work is "making people feel stupid", toughen up. If I wasn't nice enough about it, well that's because I am kind of an asshole.

I have done this twice on my last truck and recommend those mechanically inclined try it if they want to. Super easy to do and worked great with 650lb springs on a 2nd gen. The second time I did it, I left the other side wheel/tire on and on the ground. Made me feel better about making one side light without the other side on a jack stand. The higher the spring rate, the lighter the side being installed will get. I won't explain that one, don't want to make anyone feel dumb.

 

Wasn't me that was made to feel stupid. I was taking up for the other guy, who's comment you decided to totally shit on in order to stroke your own ego I guess. Can't win with guys like you. This isn't a physics class or engineering. If you want to explain something maybe go teach a class.

 

Hahaha, I’m good. That hardly even registered as a snippy comment. Thanks tho. Yeah, you’re right that wouldn’t compress the spring anymore by moving out on the control arm. We were talking basically live time and I didn’t really fully think it out. I’m definitely not an expert, but I just did it with the stock springs on the 4th perch a few weeks ago so I figured I would share. I actually do appreciate the lever explanation. Useful info. LOL, If there’s one thing other than lever dynamics I’ve learned on TW it’s to not take to heart peoples need to be the clever comment guy. I don’t personally have that void to fill. But hey, you take the good with the bad. I appreciate the 6th grade physics lesson even if I have to deal with the 6th grade maturity level.

 

OP, When I was raising it up and trying to get that last half inch to an inch, it did start to raise the truck instead of compress the spring. For a second I thought what you’re talking about might be happening but as I went a little higher it was able to go all the way up. Like I said I was on the fourth perch I can’t imagine it would be that much different on the fifth. So you should be good.

 

I was thinking the same thing with the 6112's and 650 pound springs, what if the truck is not heavy enough? I asked around but never got an actual answer.

 

I had the shocks assembled a notch below and added 1/4" spacers for both sides. Cheating? ...maybe

 

Looks like only one way for us to find out! If it doesn't work I will probably use my second jack to carefully jack up the opposite side of the truck (wheel/tire still installed) to shift more weight into the side I'm trying to compress. Disclaimer: Can't give any recommendations on what anone else should do.....not responsible/liable for anyone except myself.

 

Yeah, I just ran out of patience today if we're being honest.

 

That is exactly the combination of strut/spring that I installed on my 2nd gen with this technique. I think I was on the 3rd position from the bottom and it seated the piston shaft through the top hat no problem. I thought the 2nd gen was lighter in the front, too, but I can't think if that's a fact or just something in my head for some reason.

 

Or... If it did end up that you needed to, if you have a 4 x 4 or a 2 x 4 laying around, screw one end into the ceiling and secure the other end somewhere in the engine bay and it will stop the truck from lifting up. *Standard disclaimer that I’m not saying anyone should do this but I would be OK doing it myself.

 

Would putting far side ontop of something, maybe a few 2x4 or a paver before starting help shift more weight? Would think safer then trying to jack far side while side you are working on already under pressure?

 

Without movement/momentum, weight shift is only what is vertical from the point of lift, so technically yes it would but until the truck is at a significant angle I don't think it would be more than a negligible amount. Someone could math it to find out real numbers.

 

I could drive it onto a ramp on the opposite side, but might get sketchy. Just trying to solve a problem I don't even have yet, so thanks for the ideas. I think we're good.

 

This may be tangential but I don’t recommend using stock coils with Billies for lift. Rides like crap. Get new purposely designed coils or even just spacers for the stockers. And yes, this is all from personal experience

 

I'm starting to hear more and more people say it will ride bad. That's a bummer. I read alot of conflicting info before starting this thread.

 

I only have them on the front but I don’t notice a difference. I did however notice a huge difference going from my 2016 SR5 to my 2020 off-road. Way smoother ride.

 

Did the floor jack method today. Stock coils on the top notch. Didn't have a problem. I think the ride is the same as it was before, but it's hard to tell because the roads around here are shit.

 

Did you happen to measure how much lift you got in the front?