Installing Dual Fast Charge USB Ports where wireless charge button is

Nice job OP.

I’m mid process on something somewhat similar but a little more involved.

First off, poutlet1 and poutlet2 (older trucks like mine have socket in center console) are 22 gauge wires and fused at 15amps. I haven’t taken apart my Qi switch nor checked its fuse but the OP’s guidance and reasoning sounds good to me.

I’m taking power from the trailer brake controller, running it to a blue sea maxi fuse in the kick panel, then to under the cup holders where a high current relay switches off the leads from poutlet2 to provide 50 amps of ignition switched power. That feeds a blue sea compact 8 circuit fuse block which currently only connects to 3 usb power sockets. One In the back of the center console next to my AC in cab outlet from the inverter, one in the original poutlet2 location inside the center console and one in the dash. The poutlet1 connector is still in the dash but not used for anything. No cutting of OEM wires so far, just removal of the plastic socket connector for the poutlet2 leads which snap on to the relay perfectly.

I’m using two Toyota Oem usb outlets for the center console a blue sea usb for the dash because I needed something round to look right there.

I have some pictures on my build log and will post more soon.

overall, ROI on time and materials for doing as much as I’m doing is really poor. But I’ve enjoyed it and got to learn a bit about high current relays.

I was originally planning to add a fuse but just didn’t like how that looked and wanted a solution with only one power wire from the kick panel to the cup holder spot.

I plan to add seat heaters to this in the future and will have 3 additional circuits to play with in case I need them.

Remaining steps are finishing my grounds, insulating both high current leads to the relay, cutting the incoming 10 gauge power to proper length and securing it with zip ties.

 

I ended up getting the usb plug that would not plug right in, so I cut the connector off of it and then wired it right into the power and ground wire from the button I removed. Look at my long post I did today and hopefully that helps.

 

I'm considering getting a power socket with a voltmeter and running it directly to the battery. Is there a thread somewhere discussing how to do this?

 

Not a bad idea. Look at Blue Sea. I don’t have time for Chinese junk. They Would fit in an adaptor mounting plate such as this. Volt meter fits in one side and dual usb the other. Then it’s a simple two wires to pos and neg on the battery. You can jump the volt meter to the same wires so you don’t have to run anything extra. Very easy.

 

Really great work! It looks like you did everything you should and even more! I am eventually going to get my dual battery setup in my Tacoma, and use 3 000 wire to prevent volt drop. I have this from my suburban. It’s a National Luna brand setup, which is what at the people in Australia and South Africa use. I’ve been happy with it in my Sub, but that’s now replaced with my Tacoma. You do learn so much when doing these projects.

Also, I am crossing my fingers on having my usb outlets last. They seem like they are on par with the Toyota quality, which is likely made in the same place. Fingers crossed!!!

 

All right. Here’s a video. Again, it’s a sloppy video and lighting, but I know any bit helps. This video shows how I used butt connectors to hook this outlet up into the existing plug wires(by cutting them).



I would usually never cut any factory wires, especially after dishing out 10s of thousands for this truck, but the wireless charging system is truly worthless to us. I used high quality butt connectors with shrink wrap and glue built in. I used a lighter to shrink it very carefully, because I was working right up against my console.

This also gets Into the subject of what USB outlets to buy. I selected these(the first post of the sub) because they fit right into the Factory center button section, and they are both quick charging. I looked at a lot of the selections figuring out what to buy , and I would either have to use an aftermarket non matching plug or they weren’t quick charge. So this was the best compromise, and I can pop them right back out and reinstall the plug by putting the wires I cut back into their terminal ends of the plug if I really needed to.

Also, my wife’s droid phone is so picky with chargers, which is why I installed this. The quick charge function is extremely useful if you spend a lot of time being adventurous.

 

You can wire this to the fuse panel under the dash, there is a hot port on the fuse block that can be utilized which then would allow you to charge your phone with the truck off, just in case you wanted this option. I did this a couple years ago and really like the feature.

 

Cutting and splicing is reasonable given the many complaints about this charging system. I think I’ve even read about someone who replaced it with an aftermarket pad powered from a hidden usb source. The switch itself is rather silly since it’s also ignition switched. Most people leave it on or off and don’t change it.

for some reason it works ok with my phone. Not awesome but not terrible like I’ve read. For now I’m keeping mine but the seat heater switch will give the Qi switch the boot once I get to heaters. Unless I take the time to do an LSP8 there. Figure I’d leave it always on at that point and hide the switch inside the dash.

You might have been able to depin power from the connector which feeds the Qi switch and then crimp on a matching connector to your USB power wire, heat shrink to protect, ground the other usb wire to metal, and left yourself an easier undo. But that would have required depinning tools and heat shrink.

I would be somewhat scared with a heat gun or torch that close to the dash. For that reason, sourcing the matching connectors for the Qi switch would be cool. A small / hidden rocker closer to the pad might be better or extending it to the driver cubby where switch space is less of a premium for some of us. I may try to do that in the future. If you have a photo of the numbers on the connector that would be a great add, otherwise I’ll get it when I’m in there next.

Also, I thought about an always-hot feed for USB charging and decided against it. Only because my truck sits for long periods of time in the driveway when I’m not using it. Frequently several days and sometimes a week or two. Didn’t want to be worried that I forgot to unplug something or more likely that my wife or kids didn’t think about that. A dual battery system would eliminate that concern so if I go that route I may change things up by removing the relay from service.

 

I so want d to get the pin removed and tried without the tool. It was a no go. It’s nice being able to customize, and we all have our different preferences. I agree with everything you say here.

Yah the heat for the heat shrink was not fun but I delicately accomplished a great heat shrink seal and feel confident with it behind the dashboard. Another facet I didn’t even think of till now is there is a fuse for this plug, and I didn’t have enough time to route it somewhere accessible. if the fuse pops I’ll be spending an hour replacing it. If it becomes a problem I’ll just place it in a better accessible place.


On a side note, I installed so many things yesterday since the CB, 400 watt anytime, and USB are all in similar places. I’m about to overland in some extreme desert far away from civilization in New Mexico, so I feel my CB is actually necessary ( a ham would be better but I’m not that involved) and my CB coax 259 terminal wasn’t crimped/soldered correctly from the factory- that was a bummer. I have my magnet mount still because of that.

 

Do you happen to have a fuse diagram or anything to help locate where that hot portion on the block is? Thanks

 

No but here is a pic of it, I had no idea if one was even available, multi meter and ground connection is how I found it.

 

For my truck there was one unused fuse in the block. It was an always hot. You want a multimeter or 12v light probe to confirm.

 

Call me picky but I want blue LED's.

 

Has anyone found a usb power socket that does not have a backlight or led light? I want to wire to always hot circuit but I don’t want the led on 24/7.

or maybe one that isn’t super difficult to open up and snip the led wire?

 

I haven’t, but this one isn’t bright at all. When there are two cables plugged in, you can’t notice any light. When there isn’t anything plugged in it is extremely dim. My blue ch4x4 switch lights bug the crap out of me, but these aren’t bad at all.

 

Can any of you tell me how to get this glove box out? I dug all over youtube and I must not be using the correct search words.

I see there is another bolt that I need to get to, which looks like is on the left frame of the air bag support bar. I have the whole thing hanging by that one bolt. I can see the back of the bolt but the front is covered by the air bag trim panel, but I can't see a way of removing that trim panel. I assume it is designed to hinge and pop away or something when the air bag deploys so I don't want to break any of the tabs.



Here are the tabs of that panel as seen from the right back side. Are we supposed to depress those from the back side somehow?

 

I bought this same type USB panel off of Amazon, dual 2.1A. I put it on the bench to test it and with nothing connected it stays warm and pulls 0.060A (60ma). I desoldered the LEDs and it pulls 58mh, LOL. So the LEDs don't really draw much current. If you wanted to disconnect them the front cover just pops off, the circuit board pulls out the front and you could just clip the leads with a pair of dikes (if you didn't want to desolder them). I plan to mount a two-way switch and wire it to the brake controller connector wire underneath the driver side left kick panel, then wire the other side to the cigarette lighter. This will allow me to leave it ignition switched most of the time, but with an override when I need charging with the key removed. 60ma is not much but will certainly drain the battery over a long period. I work from home so my truck might sit for a week at a time.

 

Check out the instructions for the 2WD LOW mod.

 

I bought a dual usb charger for my SR5. I just wanted to put it in one of the blank spaces since I don't have a wireless charger in my phone. My OnePlus 7pro is also picky about chargers and cords. It will only do it's fastest warp charge with genuine oem cables and charger. The charger I got was QC 3.0 which most Android phones like. This one does charge faster on those chargers too.
This is what I got but I haven't installed.

$20 Cllena Dual USB Port Charger Socket Quick Charge 3.0 & 2.4A for Toyota

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FD2Z6G..._t1_GNHCXSRT94KP42HQMCHY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

My plan was to set it up with an add a fuse and hopefully it can be always on with out killing the battery. I like to use it to charge my phone and blue tooth speaker when I camp primitive with out having the key on.
If that's not a great idea I was thinking about hooking it up to a pushbutton switch so I and have it on only when in use.

 

You have to take out the passenger side air bag below the glove box first, and that should reveal the bolt you are looking for.