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Installing Headers?

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by ETaco23, Jul 14, 2009.

  1. Jul 14, 2009 at 7:13 PM
    #1
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    Im planning on Installing my Headers soon, and was wondering how long it should roughly take me? I have never done it before, and from what I hear, its a real PITA to do on the 3.4L.

    I just want to be able to have enough time to get them on, and get the flange welded onto the cat, all in one day... Is this possible?
     
  2. Jul 14, 2009 at 9:14 PM
    #2
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    No one knows!!! :(

    shucks! I think Im ganna try and start it on friday afternoon after work, and then finish it saturday, and get it welded up saturday afternoon. Atleast thats my plan!
     
  3. Jul 14, 2009 at 9:18 PM
    #3
    Untamed_SS

    Untamed_SS Stayed Up Too Late

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    Alpine iDA-X200 Deck, Rockford P3, Infinity 1600 A Amp, Black Badges, "KnightRider Mod", Back-up lights. Painted Engine Cover. TRD QuickShifter & Shift Knob. MAF Calibrator. Doug Thorley LT Headers. Custom Y-Pipe. Flowmaster 50 series. Satoshi Grill
    I can't speak for the 3.4l, but mine was simple! :thumbsup:

    Hope this lifts your spirits at least. :D
     
  4. Jul 14, 2009 at 9:23 PM
    #4
    4421.frank

    4421.frank Well-Known Member

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    nasty dent on driver's side bed panel, shabby seats, cigarette burned interior roof, missing berf bar pad, cracked rain visor, removed hood scoop, unmentionable stain on back bench?
    What headers did you go with? My truck is getting up there in age and I was contemplating a brand new exhaust system as well. Let me know any advice you got on this project you got going on. Where is the welding involved in the installation?
    What rod are using? 309 or 308?
     
  5. Jul 14, 2009 at 9:48 PM
    #5
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    I got the TRD headers, and I believe there a 309.

    A flange needs to be welded to the cat, so it can bolt up to the y-pipe. But I will let you know how the Install goes. I hope it will go smooth and wont be a huge Pain.
     
  6. Jul 14, 2009 at 9:56 PM
    #6
    tigerfan00

    tigerfan00 BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Thor

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    everything ive ever read is that its a MAJOR PITA...and it should be taken to a dealer for install

    from what i understand is that its tricky to get the old pipes off...and the new ones positioned in place...and that actually lifting the engine a bit may be needed
     
  7. Jul 14, 2009 at 10:10 PM
    #7
    4421.frank

    4421.frank Well-Known Member

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    nasty dent on driver's side bed panel, shabby seats, cigarette burned interior roof, missing berf bar pad, cracked rain visor, removed hood scoop, unmentionable stain on back bench?
    so i am guessing very thin metal somewhere between 11 and 14 gauge?
    Is it stainless?
    I am thinking probably going at something like that with the TIG torch rather than using the stick welder. Al though...........
    is this something that can be done before it is installed or does it have to be done under the truck itself?
     
  8. Jul 15, 2009 at 5:53 PM
    #8
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    yeah, its stainless. And there a great product, IMO.
    But the cutting/welding needs to be done during or after the Install.
     
  9. Jul 15, 2009 at 6:03 PM
    #9
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    yeah, thats what ive heard too, but I also heard it can be done by yourself. But I really think Im ganna have a shop tackle this job.:confused:
     
  10. Jul 15, 2009 at 8:08 PM
    #10
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    I just hate spending 4-500 bucks to have a shop do the install, when I know that I could probably do it myself.
     
  11. Jul 15, 2009 at 8:20 PM
    #11
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

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    K&N cold air intake, doug thorley headers, rear sensor simulator, flowmaster 40 series, magnecor plug wires, Royal Purple synthetic gear lube, airaid throttle body spacer, Hyperground system, flex-a-lite elec fan.
    I installed doug thorley's on my 3.4L. It wasn't to bad (worth the $500 I saved) but I had the tranny out for a clutch replacement. That made it a lot easier to remove the old manifold and put the new one in place. The drivers side was harder than the passenger. I had to access manifold studs on drivers side through the wheel well a lot. If you don't have one already get a weeble extension. I found those very helpful. I also used a universal several times. Have fun
     
  12. Jul 15, 2009 at 8:33 PM
    #12
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    Thanks! its post like yours that make me feel like I can do the Install, no problem! :)

    I would love to see some pics of your headers?
     
  13. Jul 15, 2009 at 8:42 PM
    #13
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

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    sure thing give me a few minutes
     
  14. Jul 15, 2009 at 9:16 PM
    #14
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

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  15. Jul 15, 2009 at 9:24 PM
    #15
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

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    K&N cold air intake, doug thorley headers, rear sensor simulator, flowmaster 40 series, magnecor plug wires, Royal Purple synthetic gear lube, airaid throttle body spacer, Hyperground system, flex-a-lite elec fan.
    What I did instead of weld the flange onto the cat was I had an exhaust shop bend a piece of 2.5" so that it was the same angle as the cat. I removed the 1st cat entirely. No CEL at all. Don't know what emissions are like in your state but if you can pull it off go for it. 2nd cat I replaced with a high flow from magnaflow. That tripped the CEL though. If you ever do that do not get a magnaflow cat. They are not obdII compliant as they say and they will not honor their warranty.
    Ceramic coating is great. My s10 was just stainless (no coating) and the engine would get crazy hot, and it was only a 4cyl. I don't think trd headers are coated. I found a used set when I was looking to buy but I wouldn't get them bc they weren't coated. Also I lost the shine on mine (as they said I would) just something to think about. Any questions give me a holler
     
  16. Jul 15, 2009 at 9:38 PM
    #16
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    verry cool! thanks alot... they look awsome. I think Im ganna go ahead and try to do the Install this weekend. :) I hope things go smooth... and I will probably get the flange welded to the cat at my local shop.

    I will keep ya'll posted!
     
  17. Jul 15, 2009 at 9:47 PM
    #17
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    I thaught about getting them coated, but was told that the TRD's dont get that much hotter then stock. But i'll see later, when I get them on.
     
  18. Jul 15, 2009 at 9:55 PM
    #18
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD .....

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    Make sure to keep us posted on your progress and take pics! :D
     
  19. Jul 16, 2009 at 5:13 PM
    #19
    ETaco23

    ETaco23 [OP] Marshall offroad Fabrication

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    Well after looking at my manifold, and try to soak all the bolts down with PB. I decided that its ganna suck and be the biggest PITA tring to get those things off. So I might just save up and let my local shop do the Install.

    Unless I can find someone to help me out with the Install. :(
     
  20. Jul 16, 2009 at 5:21 PM
    #20
    matthew5olson

    matthew5olson Well-Known Member

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    I soaked mine down with pb blaster about twice a day for a whole week before I did the install. I got a 16inch steel pipe that fit over my wratchit. (cheater bar) with that much leverage it was a piece of cake. I was worried that I would snap a stud but I made sure I didn't twist the socket at all when I was applying pressure and I didn't have a problem. An alternative to that steel pipe is the handle to your floor jack. that usually works.
     
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