Installing Hidden Satellite Radio Antenna - Pre-Runner

I finally got enough time to do a proper installation of a Sirius, low profile antenna on my 2007 Pre-Runner. Up till now, I just left a larger home-style antenna on the dash and had to deal with a lot of excess wiring and it moving around as I drove.

I knew there was a better way to get an smaller antenna mounted once and for all and in a better place than cutting through the brake light, ripping down the headliner, sticking it on the front fender or just above the doors. All of these methods still make your satellite radio antenna visible and possible to vandals, cuts or damage so here is my solution:

Good luck finding the antenna...........



It's under the rail cap! The plastic, non-radio wave interfering rail cap. If you pop off the small plastic pin holding down the rear of the cap from inside the bed and gently lift up on the railing, you can actually set a low-profile satellite antenna under the cap.









You will need to cut back a bit of the thin supports along the bottom of the cap for clearance around the antenna, but a few quick cuts with a sharp blade and you will have plenty of room. Then route the cable down through one of the many holes available and along the same path as the rear brake light wiring. You will need to take off the brake light to get the proper access to the wiring bundle (Two 10mm bolts). Using a plastic wire-tie every 6" or so, follow the wiring loom along the driver's side. Removing the left rear tire will be helpful in getting the wiring up and along the frame and past the gas tank. I wished I had done this.

Keep slowly working your way along until you get to the large rubber grommet under the driver's seat.






Punch a small hole to the rear (to keep the water out) and pass through the antenna lead. Wire-tie it into place.





Now remove the driver side seat bolts and prop the seat back giving you access under it where the wiring loom passes. Carefully lift up the grey plastic runner along the door frame and expose the wiring loom. The white clips are stapled to the carpet, so don't jerk them around. Move the clips up or out to gain access to the wiring loom.





It's temping to keep following the wiring up and along the kick plate -


but don't do it. Instead, move towards the center console area and follow the wiring along that path to the front cup holder/radio area. Even though the cable is 21' feet long, it was not going to make it if I followed the kick plate.




A week later and the radio has been updated an AUX/Input interface and tested. It works great! Clear reception all over the place. Getting more small parts to finish this project right.

I am mounting a 3A USB port under the left center air vent panel to power my Android hanging above it.




Tamiya battery connector quick-disconnect in case I ever need to remove the cover.




Piggyback power taps that will go on the back of one power outlet.



I used a mill to cut the hole out and drill the holes for the 4-40 screws. Found some black anodized Allen head ones.



Finished work.

There is a 20 Amp fuse for the power ports already so why bother adding yet another fuse to the USB converter?


Looking good. Took a black Sharpie to white USB plug end to hide it somewhat.

Took a lot longer to add the USB power plug as Toyota has made it damn near impossible to remove the power ports...(ugh!) Anyway, I somehow forced out the right plug and now see why:



That tab is impossible to move with any tool I have so I resorted to prying the whole thing out. It turns out the plug is keyed too so rotating it out is useless.






I then had to cut the power leads away from the plastic piece holding them at the 90 degree angles (to fit the end of the plug) and then add my the USB power leads. What a mess, but worth it. I found out you can release the metal tabs from the rear by pushing up on a "door" at the back of the 90 degree tab covers.




Nice scratches from pulling it out. Oh, well. Time to cut apart the plastic lugs from each other.



And we are done! The 3 amp USB is working and powered / fused by the right-hand power port. This was a bit of work, but worth every minute. The Sirius sounds great and I have plenty of USB power now for any device